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Author
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Topic: Confused about exhaust, can someone help?
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BLstangin
Gearhead Posts: 412
From: South Central MN
Registered: Apr 2002
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posted 12-08-2003 12:21 AM
   
My car currently has flowtech headers with 1 7/8 dual exhaust, with the new motor (specs in my sig.) that is to small. I have been recommended 2.25 and 2.5 inch exhaust. But what should I go with. I may but a little bigger cam in it and rev it to 6,500 rpm if it will take it. The rods have been recondtioned using arp bolts, and it has been balanced. So what should I do for exhaust. It is on my list of things to do this spring when I get it out of storage. I was looking at the flowmaster mandrel bent tailpipes, but what would I do for the rest, also what do you guys suggest for mufflers? Do you think my motor will take 6,500 rpm ocassionally and last for years?------------------
1970 coupe restored with the help of my dad. 306 with 600 holley, Weiand Stealth intake, headers, Comp cam, harland sharp roller rockers, kb pistons, 11:1 compression ratio, pertonix ignitor 2 with matched coil, lakewood bellhousing, 4-speed toploader, and 2.79 open 8" rear. Soon to be 9" 3.50 trac-lok
1986 f-150, 5.0, factory towing package with original c-6 trans
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N266fords
Gearhead Posts: 906
From: Spokane ,WA USA
Registered: Apr 2003
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posted 12-08-2003 12:30 AM
Dr gas X pipe and full mandrel bent 2.5 inch lungs.Bruce
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bluestreek
Gearhead Posts: 1437
From: Athens,GA
Registered: Jul 2001
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posted 12-08-2003 01:23 AM
A 306 with stock heads, street gears, in a heavy car with a 4 spd will lose some valuable lowend torque with mandrel 2 1/2 pipes, but if you have future head and stroker plans for the motor, go ahead and do it so you won't have to pay again later. Otherwise, a standard 2 1/4" job will be a big improvement. I'm still running 2 1/4" on my little 331 and it's nice and torquey!  ------------------
1966 Mustang Coupe: Custom glass hood and BIG scoop sits atop a 289 stroked to 331 c.i., Steel crank, rods and girdle, TFS alum. heads, Stealth 8020 intake, Xtreme 268 Solid Roller, Holley 750 HP, long tubes, 4speed, 9" 3.50 posi.
11.86 @ 116 mph (7.62 @ 93 mph)daily driver!
DanH
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BLstangin
Gearhead Posts: 412
From: South Central MN
Registered: Apr 2002
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posted 12-08-2003 10:15 AM
Where can I find the dr. gas x pipe. How much are they? Do they really help you power wise?------------------
1970 coupe restored with the help of my dad. 306 with 600 holley, Weiand Stealth intake, headers, Comp cam, harland sharp roller rockers, kb pistons, 11:1 compression ratio, pertonix ignitor 2 with matched coil, lakewood bellhousing, 4-speed toploader, and 2.79 open 8" rear. Soon to be 9" 3.50 trac-lok
1986 f-150, 5.0, factory towing package with original c-6 trans
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capri man
Gearhead Posts: 3953
From: doerun, ga.
Registered: Nov 2000
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posted 12-08-2003 11:32 AM
you might check with a local mufler shopnot one of the chaines!! i had mine built and installed for less than $100.------------------
mike r
racing is real
everything else is just a game.
81 capri-7.51 @89mph 1/8
1.54 60 ft. http://www.angelfire.com/ny5/billswebsite/pg06.html
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Fastymz
Moderator Posts: 13090
From: Reno Nv USA MEM#1240
Registered: Apr 2001
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posted 12-08-2003 01:04 PM
I'd go with the 2.5" pipe all the they back with or without a cross over. That way you don't have to do it again when you do some more mods. I want to go with a 2.5" or maybe a 3" system this time. With the motor I'm going to build my 2.25 is to small.
I'm also leaving off the cross over this time. ------------------
SCOOP 2.26 60'S
14.9 @ 90.86MPH 65 coupe,351w,C4,Big Boss 429 hood scoop,8" 3.40 TracLoc. My Pics
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Dubz
Gearhead Posts: 823
From: Manitoba Canada
Registered: Oct 2002
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posted 12-08-2003 01:37 PM
Why are you leaving out the crossover Scoop, i thought they were supposed to be good for more power?according to Broader Performance..
@ 15" wc 2 1/2" straight pipe will flow 512
where as 2 1/4" will only flow 365 Any idea how much 3" would flow edit : did a quick calculation and it should flow in excess of 750cfm 
[This message has been edited by Dubz (edited 12-08-2003).]
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Fastymz
Moderator Posts: 13090
From: Reno Nv USA MEM#1240
Registered: Apr 2001
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posted 12-08-2003 02:36 PM
Dubz, I have had a some very Convincing people tell to leave it off. I'll try it without it and might have one added later if I think it would help.
The other reason I'd like to try it without one. Is so I can more easy unhook the exhaust move the pipes to the inside of the collectors and bolt then there.
Must of the gains from a cross over is lowend power. And the X-pipe is more low-midrange power. If I understand them right?------------------
SCOOP 2.26 60'S
14.9 @ 90.86MPH 65 coupe,351w,C4,Big Boss 429 hood scoop,8" 3.40 TracLoc. My Pics
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V-8
Gearhead Posts: 112
From: Turkey/istanbul
Registered: Dec 2003
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posted 12-08-2003 03:24 PM
im using hedman headers,2.5 inc pipe,x pipe and flow masters.(351w)
when i swaped h pipe to x pipe the engine sound get perfect
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Rustang
Gearhead Posts: 548
From: Clarion PA
Registered: Nov 2000
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posted 12-08-2003 04:11 PM
Here's a chart from Flowmaster. It's for trucks but I can't see where the same wouldn't apply to your car
http://www.flowmastermufflers.com/cgi-bin/flowmaster/trucksh.html
then click on "mufflers"
then click "get details, truck &RV"
then click on the PDF.
(that's the only way I could get the link to work!)
------------------
'68 mustang 351 clevor- 10.92@124
'67 Stang, 351W -11.18@118
'69 351C Torino-14.90@100
'78 Pickup 351W-15.56@88
'79 Pickup 460 ET=??[This message has been edited by Rustang (edited 12-08-2003).]
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V-8
Gearhead Posts: 112
From: Turkey/istanbul
Registered: Dec 2003
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posted 12-08-2003 04:53 PM
im using;
flow master 50series flo-942550.
hand made x pipe it cost 20$.
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Dubz
Gearhead Posts: 823
From: Manitoba Canada
Registered: Oct 2002
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posted 12-08-2003 05:08 PM
if you still wanted the extra power wherever you could put in cutouts at the collector so you could still run open exhaust scoop (what i was thinking of)Would running 3" exhaust on a pretty much stock 351W be overkill, would it kill bottom end? I'd like the low tone of 3" but not if it will kill alot of power over a set of 2.5". Or would 2.5" be good for a 393 with a 280S cam? [This message has been edited by Dubz (edited 12-08-2003).]
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N266fords
Gearhead Posts: 906
From: Spokane ,WA USA
Registered: Apr 2003
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posted 12-08-2003 05:22 PM
Pro motorsports in utah Sells them.(x-pipe)
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V-8
Gearhead Posts: 112
From: Turkey/istanbul
Registered: Dec 2003
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posted 12-09-2003 11:03 AM
i read in hotrod magazine."xpipe makes more power than open headers"!
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MidLifCrisis
Gearhead Posts: 306
From: USA
Registered: Oct 2001
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posted 12-14-2003 12:51 AM
quote:
Originally posted by Dubz:
according to Broader Performance..
@ 15" wc 2 1/2" straight pipe will flow 512
where as 2 1/4" will only flow 365
Isn't that flow per pipe? So a set of 2 1/4" duals will flow 730? Or am I off-base on this? Charlie
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n2oMike
Gearhead Posts: 1678
From: Spencer, WV
Registered: Jan 2001
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posted 12-14-2003 09:47 AM
quote:
Originally posted by MidLifCrisis:
Isn't that flow per pipe? So a set of 2 1/4" duals will flow 730? Or am I off-base on this? Charlie
Maybe for straight pipe with no bends and no mufflers... But crush bent (muffler shop made) pipe gets crimped big time by the hydraulic benders. The bigger the pipe and the tighter the bend, the worse it gets. I would STRONGLY recommend the $99/pr Flowmaster 2-1/2" mandrel bent tailpipes. They work way better and also look way better than anything bent by a muffler shop. Most shops don't mind you bringing them in, either, since making decent diameter tailpipes for a tight car such as an early mustang is a PITA! You can get by with muffler shop pipes up to the mufflers (since the bends aren't that sharp) but definitely go with the Flowmaster tailpipes. Just call Summit and ask for the Flowmaster tailpipes for 65-70 mustangs. My personal favorite thing to do is run 3" back to a set of 3" mufflers. Then, weld collector rings to the muffler outlets and connect the tailpipes with ordinary header reducers. This will make them easily removable. Removable tailpipes make it easy to remove the entire exhaust system for undercar work. It also allows you to remove the tailpipes for a more 'throaty' sound when you get in that kind of mood.  Good Luck! Good Luck!
------------------
Mike Burch
66 mustang real street
302 4-speed 289 heads
10.63 @ 129.3
http://www.geocities.com/carbedstangs/cmml_mburch.html
http://www.fortunecity.com/silverstone/healey/367
http://www.mustangworks.com/cgi-bin/moi-display.cgi?220
[This message has been edited by n2oMike (edited 12-14-2003).]
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Mpcoluv
Gearhead Posts: 1026
From: Charlotte NC usa
Registered: Apr 2001
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posted 12-14-2003 10:53 AM
I would avoid Flowmaster mufflers like the plague, unless you want a lot of interior drone.
I will gladly sell my pair to anyone who insists on using flowmasters. The Flowmaster manderl bent tailpipes that Mike mentioned are very nice however.
Dynomax super turbos or Borlas are going on soon.
Another thing, if you are wunning anything less tahn open headers, always use a crossover. The H or X are both better with a full exhaust than no crossover at all.
The X sometimes makes a little more power and torques and is almost always quieter than the H.
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