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Author
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Topic: Help with traction
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Jerry Piner
Gearhead Posts: 177
From: staunton, va
Registered: Dec 2001
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posted 10-17-2003 09:53 AM
  
I hear "get the front of the car to work" can make a big difference in how a car hooks. Exactly what does that mean and what are some ways or things you can do to get the front of your car to work.
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Tbird
Gearhead Posts: 298
From: USA
Registered: May 2003
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posted 10-17-2003 11:08 AM
Jerry,I do believe the key is getting the rear of the car to work first. Planting the rear tires evenly and not rising or squating excessively for your situation. Then adjust the rate the front end rises or how much it can rise is next. This front end rise is driectly related to how well the rear end is planting the tires. you want the car to move forward as it raises the front end, not raise the front end and then move forward.
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Rustang
Gearhead Posts: 733
From: Clarion PA
Registered: Nov 2000
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posted 10-17-2003 11:14 AM
6-cylinder springs, 90/10 shocks, loose(worn out) bushings, remove the sway bar.
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Jerry Piner
Gearhead Posts: 177
From: staunton, va
Registered: Dec 2001
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posted 10-17-2003 11:37 AM
Is it possible to have the front to loose.
I was talking to a friend of mine awhile ago and he said it seems like my car leaves and the front end pops up real good then it seems like it slams down and the car might be unloading.
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Tbird
Gearhead Posts: 298
From: USA
Registered: May 2003
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posted 10-17-2003 01:08 PM
Yes, it is possilbe to have the front end too loose. Worn out shocks can let the front end settle too quickly at times. Most of the time when the rear end unloads, it is due to a problem in the rear, not front. Could be shocks/springs are too stiff or too soft, shocks bottoming out and/or extending to much. Both of these are usually cause by being too soft of shocks settings (rebound and/or compression) or non-adjustable. You have probably seen cars that porpoises or rocks back and for at laund and the first half of the track. this is usually do to the car having the wrong springs and/or shocks more so in the rear than both ends.At the launch, The passenger rear tire is being pulled into the wheel tub and should have a shock you can adjust the compression stroke and adequate spring pressure/preload. In conjunction with this, you might want to stenghten the rebound (extension) of the left front shock to preven the left front from seperating too much or een put a travel limiter on the amount the a-arm can drop. The driver side rear tire is forced out of the wheel tub and should have the shock adjusted to prevent rebound (extension). You can run slight less spring pressure/preload on this side. Inconjuction, you might want to let the right front be able to lift more by loosening the rebound of that shock. [This message has been edited by Tbird (edited 10-17-2003).] [This message has been edited by Tbird (edited 10-17-2003).]
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Rustang
Gearhead Posts: 733
From: Clarion PA
Registered: Nov 2000
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posted 10-17-2003 01:16 PM
Yup...
if you have adjustable 90/10's you can adjust the dampening rates so the shock is "stiffer" in extension. The other method is making travel limiters for your front end, either cables or chains to limit the front end rise. BTW what you're experiencing, Jerry, is pretty typical of the early Mustangs. If you're experiencing alot of rear-end seperation on launch I'd work on taming that down first.
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Tbird
Gearhead Posts: 298
From: USA
Registered: May 2003
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posted 10-17-2003 01:29 PM
I suspect your funds are limited like most everyone else...but I do believe this QA1 kit would work on a Mustang. The kit GMPR-15 for the SBC could be fitted under your front end with minimal work. It is a bit pricey but with some QA1 shocks on rear, it would probably launch better. I have seen this kit mounted on a 1964 Fairlane.  [This message has been edited by Tbird (edited 10-17-2003).]
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Jerry Piner
Gearhead Posts: 177
From: staunton, va
Registered: Dec 2001
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posted 10-17-2003 01:41 PM
The worst part is that my car only runs low 8.20's in the 1/8th and 60 ft are 1.70-1.73. I have C/E 90/10 & 50/50 shocks subframe connectors sway bar removed SSM lift bars and 28x10 slicks.
The car had traction bars and was worse than with the lift bars. Granted I didn't really try to do anything different with them.
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CHIPSBAD67
Gearhead Posts: 396
From: LOU,KY;USA
Registered: Sep 2003
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posted 10-17-2003 10:28 PM
do you have jet extentions?------------------
306, 4speed, 4.11's....best 1/8 mile 7.58 at 92mph with 1.72 60ft. PUMP GAS/NO ADDERS/STREET TIRES
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bluestreek
Gearhead Posts: 1724
From: Athens,GA
Registered: Jul 2001
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posted 10-17-2003 11:50 PM
quote:
Originally posted by Jerry Piner:
The worst part is that my car only runs low 8.20's in the 1/8th and 60 ft are 1.70-1.73. I have C/E 90/10 & 50/50 shocks subframe connectors sway bar removed SSM lift bars and 28x10 slicks.
Sounds like it may be more of a engine tuning issue than traction. 1.70 60' times should put a sbf in the 7 second range if the engine pulls hard the whole way thru the 1/8th.
I was looking at an old timeslip and found a run where I ran 7.88 1/8 mile with only a 1.90 60' time and shifting at 5800 rpms. I run a very mild roller cam (268/274 adv.), vacuum secondaries, and dual plane intake. I know it's not a HP beast but it makes good overall power in the range that I have to run in with my street setup.  ------------------
1966 Mustang Coupe: Custom glass hood and BIG scoop sits atop a 289 stroked to 331 c.i., Steel crank and girdle, TFS alum. heads, ported Stealth 8020 intake, Xtreme 274 Solid Roller, Holley 750 HP, long tubes, 4speed, 9" 3.50 posi.
11.86 @ 116 mph (7.62 @ 93 mph)daily driver!
DanH
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