Author
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Topic: to get the best time, with no engine mods?
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Dubz Gearhead Posts: 1718 From: Manitoba Canada Registered: Oct 2002
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posted 09-10-2003 06:15 PM
what would you do, to quicken your 1/4 track times, with a completely stock motor? only suspension upgrades, tires, and easy weight saving stuff??so answers like "take off the sway bars, adjustable rear shocks, run some good sticky drag tires on some aluminum wheels, box lower control arms, small fuel cell (maybe 5 gal of gas), and a 4.11 gear" are wonderful have just been thinking, what's the point in having a 600 hp car that runs 14's, if you can run 12's with 250 [This message has been edited by Dubz (edited 09-10-2003).]
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mustangboy Gearhead Posts: 774 From: Ont, Canada Registered: Mar 2002
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posted 09-10-2003 10:40 PM
Its pretty tough to gain a lot of Et with just removing stuff off of your car.I think I read somewhere that a 100lbs is supposed to be good for a 10th(that may be wrong)but its hard to remove even 100 lbs,especially if its still a street legal vehicle.I'm afraid you will need to make some hp or else put your motor in a very small light car.------------------ 1968 mustang j-code sprint.13.69@101 306cu.in, stock ported heads,weiand exellerator,650 holley DP,hedman hedders,comp 292 Magnum cam,4-speed,8 inch 4.11 detroit locker http://mustangsandmore.50megs.com/MembersPics/mustangboy.html
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Dubz Gearhead Posts: 1718 From: Manitoba Canada Registered: Oct 2002
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posted 09-11-2003 12:36 AM
i'm not looking to gain tons of time, just optimize what i allready have, since i will want to do that in the future as well with more power------------------ 1974 Gran Torino, 351W rpm air gap intake, Holley 670 carb, 1" 4 hole spacer My Page
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662+2 Gearhead Posts: 124 From: Ontario, Canada Registered: Jan 2003
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posted 09-11-2003 08:17 AM
Do you have an electric fan that might gain you some ET also if you put a C-4 in place of the C-6 you would gain there also. Good luck!
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bluestreek Gearhead Posts: 1724 From: Athens,GA Registered: Jul 2001
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posted 09-11-2003 11:00 AM
quote: Originally posted by Dubz:
have just been thinking, what's the point in having a 600 hp car that runs 14's, if you can run 12's with 250 [This message has been edited by Dubz (edited 09-10-2003).]
Running 12's with 250HP is not a simple task with a 3000lb passenger car. There's not really a whole lot to gain with the changes you mentioned except for the widest slicks you can cram in the wells. In order to get the best possible e.t. without motor mods, you have to be able to keep the motor pulling in it's "sweet spot" all the time, and that includes from take off to finish line. Perfectly tuned gears, high stall converter with a built C4 tranny, drag suspension, and slicks that can hook solid @ 5000 rpms, will e.t. better than engine mods alone everytime. A stick shift can compete, but will have to have a very low 1st gear ratio and special clutch to run with a good high stall convertor. ------------------ 1966 Mustang Coupe: Custom glass hood and BIG scoop sits atop a 289 stroked to 331 c.i., Steel crank and girdle, 5.4 H-beams, Forged slugs, TFS alum. heads, ported Stealth 8020 intake, Xtreme 274 Solid Roller, Holley 750 HP, long tubes, 4speed, 9" 3.50 posi. 11.86 @ 116 mph (7.62 @ 93 mph)full street trim! DanH
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Fastymz Moderator Posts: 18703 From: Reno Nv USA MEM#1240 Registered: Apr 2001
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posted 09-11-2003 01:04 PM
Dubz with mirror engine mods and a few suspension and other mods.I got my car to a 14.9 I know that's not fast but it's faster then it was. It was running high 15's before I went to a 4bl carb and dual and short headers. I added wider tires, removed the sway bar, lift bars,eletric fan. So I think it's well worth the time to improve all that you have now. That way when you can afford more power the car is ready for it. I don't see why with low dollar mods you can't see a pick up of 1 second gain or so.------------------ SCOOP 2.26 60'S 14.9 @ 90.86MPH 65 coupe,351w,C4,Big Boss 429 hood scoop,8" 3.40 TracLoc. My Pics
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Dubz Gearhead Posts: 1718 From: Manitoba Canada Registered: Oct 2002
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posted 09-11-2003 03:18 PM
quote: Originally posted by bluestreek: Running 12's with 250HP is not a simple task with a 3000lb passenger car.
it was ment to be a gross exageration, and i think you get my drift, what's the point in having a 500 hp car, when a car of equal weight with 490 can run as fast or quicker ------------------ 1974 Gran Torino, 351W rpm air gap intake, Holley 670 carb, 1" 4 hole spacer My Page
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bluestreek Gearhead Posts: 1724 From: Athens,GA Registered: Jul 2001
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posted 09-11-2003 11:52 PM
I didn't think you were exagerating. It is possible to get a small V8 Ford with 250 RWHP in the 12's. I have a friend with a 80 Capri that dynoed only 254 RWHP and she is running 12.80s very consistently. I spent years trying to catch her with my ol '66 and finally gave up and put a alum. headed stroker in it. ------------------ 1966 Mustang Coupe: Custom glass hood and BIG scoop sits atop a 289 stroked to 331 c.i., Steel crank and girdle, 5.4 H-beams, Forged slugs, TFS alum. heads, ported Stealth 8020 intake, Xtreme 274 Solid Roller, Holley 750 HP, long tubes, 4speed, 9" 3.50 posi. 11.86 @ 116 mph (7.62 @ 93 mph)full street trim! DanH
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Dubz Gearhead Posts: 1718 From: Manitoba Canada Registered: Oct 2002
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posted 09-12-2003 12:01 AM
hmm, i would like that capri, what all was done to her?
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69stanger Journeyman Posts: 77 From: Northridge, CA Registered: Aug 2002
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posted 09-12-2003 03:50 AM
it is possible to run 12s with only 250rwhpI remember this write up in a magazine in which they took a 5.0 put on a short belt, removed the air silencer, removed the front sway bar, added 4.11 gears and sticky tires and ran 12s.
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bluestreek Gearhead Posts: 1724 From: Athens,GA Registered: Jul 2001
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posted 09-12-2003 01:47 PM
69stanger is pretty close. The Capri is running a stock non-emmision 5.0 GT roller motor with b303 cam, 1.7 roller rockers, Stealth intake, 650 Demon, headers, no tail pipes, built C4 auto, 4.10 gears, 4500 stall convertor,underdrive pulleys, no sway bars, fiberglass cowl hood, 26"x10" slicks, skinny front tires, and drag suspension. Drag racing gets simpler if you just forget about how the car acts on the street and make your mind up that you're only interested in getting the quickest straight line e.t's. Just about everything you do to make a car perform better at the strip (besides adding cubic inches and stronger parts) will have a negative effect on the street. If your motor is running solid and you know exactly what it will do, you just set up the tranny and gear ratios so that the engine rpms stay close as possible to it's peak HP. Don't worry about gas mileage, handling or ride comfort, or cruising rpms. None of that matters at the strip. Once you have posi-traction and some sticky slicks, set the suspension for straight-line traction, and shed any xtra weight you don't need, then you're on your way to have some fun at the strip!! You should also get a helmet and add a driveshaft loop at this point.
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Dubz Gearhead Posts: 1718 From: Manitoba Canada Registered: Oct 2002
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posted 09-12-2003 02:07 PM
i thought you were supposed to stay where you have the best torque, as that's your engine's happy spot, am i wrong about this?
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Fastymz Moderator Posts: 18703 From: Reno Nv USA MEM#1240 Registered: Apr 2001
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posted 09-12-2003 02:35 PM
quote: Originally posted by bluestreek:
If your motor is running solid and you know exactly what it will do, you just set up the tranny and gear ratios so that the engine rpms stay close as possible to it's peak HP.
Dubz your right thats what Dan is saying here.
------------------ SCOOP 2.26 60'S 14.9 @ 90.86MPH 65 coupe,351w,C4,Big Boss 429 hood scoop,8" 3.40 TracLoc. My Pics
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bluestreek Gearhead Posts: 1724 From: Athens,GA Registered: Jul 2001
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posted 09-13-2003 01:13 PM
Your line of thinking is right Dubs, but Torque and HP go hand in hand. Simply put..Torque is just a measure of the braking force from a crankshaft, but HP is figured by the engines ability to ACCELERATE the crankshaft. To get the best possible 60' times from your combo, you have to set the whole car up so that when you launch, the motor will never fall below it's peak torque range and NO energy is waisted to tirespin or body lift. This is where a high stall converter shines. It never allows the motor to fall below a set rpms. Once the car is rolling, THEN the gears and tire size should be setup to get the best average HP from the motor to keep the car accelerating as quickly as possible. Once you get your 60' times optimized its mostly all down hill from there.
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