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Author
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Topic: Zero Oil Pressure
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Bill3888
Journeyman Posts: 38
From: Riverside , Ca
Registered: Aug 2003
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posted 09-07-2003 11:55 PM
   
Hi - Got a 65 289 stroked to 347 - Nopticed the Oil pressure at zero starting down the street. Reached for the key and heard some grinding noises as I shut it off! Oil pressure is normally about 40 PSI - engine is very new - only about 15 miles on rebuild by a proffesional engine builder - New oil pump and shaft - MSD distributor - My questions are anyone out there expierienced this? Likely most likely causes and easiest way to check? Since I heard some noise, should I just go ahead and drop the pan to check the mains? The way I read the oil gallery views of a small block it seem to me the cams get the oil first then the mains? True or not? Any help would be appreciated - Thanks in advance :( Help! ------------------
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N266fords
Gearhead Posts: 1404
From: Spokane ,WA USA
Registered: Apr 2003
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posted 09-08-2003 12:47 AM
there is a soft plug on the side of the oil pump that if it goes you loose all oil presure..time to pull the motor or drop the pan..Bruce
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Mike_R
Gearhead Posts: 176
From: Indianapolis, IN 46237
Registered: Feb 2001
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posted 09-08-2003 09:05 AM
Before you pull the pan, pull the valve covers and check the valvetrain. It's possible that you have a broken or bent pushrod and a lifter out of the hole. If that's the case there's no need to pull the engine just yet. I've had this happen a few times and never had any bearing problems because of it. As long as the engine was shut down fairly soon after it lost oil pressure it probably didn't hurt anything. At least this is the first thing I would check.
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ZEATER
Gearhead Posts: 173
From: Mount Pleasant,IA,USA
Registered: Aug 2001
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posted 09-08-2003 01:59 PM
I had the oil pressure go to zero on mine and found it was the sending unit. According to auto meter excess vibration will damage the units (electrical units). This happened twice and I have since switched to mechanical.
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N266fords
Gearhead Posts: 1404
From: Spokane ,WA USA
Registered: Apr 2003
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posted 09-08-2003 05:27 PM
sorry mike i would assume that would be the first choice .what i meant to offer was another posiblity if everything on top looked good.bruce
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BLstangin
Gearhead Posts: 779
From: St. James, MN
Registered: Apr 2002
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posted 09-08-2003 07:27 PM
Just my opinion, but I would mark the distributor and pull it out. Then I would try to prime the oil pump with a drill and a oil pump primer. If the drill pulls way down you have oil pressure, if it just slows down a little or nun at all then there is something wrong. That way instead of firing it up with a mechanical gauge or something to check if it is the gauge and doing more damage if indeed something is wrong, you won't hurt anything. It may even be a broken pump shaft. Good luck, hope it is minor!------------------
1970 coupe restored with the help of my dad. 302 with 600 holley, aluminum intake, headers, pertonix ignitor 2 with matched coil, lakewood bellhousing, 4-speed toploader, and 2.79 open 8" rear. Soon to be 9" 3.50 trac-lok
1986 f-150, 5.0, factory towing package with original c-6 trans
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Bill3888
Journeyman Posts: 38
From: Riverside , Ca
Registered: Aug 2003
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posted 09-08-2003 11:29 PM
Sorry - Forgot to mention solid roller cam, roller rockers - I plan on the distributor first to check the oil pump drive at the bottom and the gear - Then the pan - I'll post what I find - hoping the metalic grinding was the pump drive shaft because of a frozen pump? Thanks for the advice and any other will be appreciated. ------------------
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Fordwiser
Gearhead Posts: 390
From: Metamora, Illinois
Registered: Dec 2000
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posted 09-08-2003 11:40 PM
Weren't most of the small block front oil gally plugs pressed in, may of pushed one out, or even if they were threaded plugs the machine shop may of forgotton to tighten them. Another idea to check out.
Roger
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Bill3888
Journeyman Posts: 38
From: Riverside , Ca
Registered: Aug 2003
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posted 09-10-2003 02:42 AM
Hi - Thanks for all the suggestions - here's what caused it - zero pressure was the hodge podge wiring the guy I bought this car from allowed his mechanic to do for him, along with other more seious and dangerous bad work. The spagetti of wiring behind the dash was unbelievable!!! Pulled the distributor and sending unit and once the drill was run "backwards" it pumped fine. Lead me to suspect the great workmanship!! The metalic grinding happened to be more great workmanship - the lower alternator mount bolt came out (by the crankshaft pulley) - since it was still attached to the alternator it just dropped onto the pulley and did a little grinding - Kick me hard if I ever buy another car sight unseen on ebay, regardless of 18 pages pronouncing how great it was!! - All the great parts in the world don't mean a thing if the owner doesn't care and lets an incompetent fool do all the work!!! "Of course the previous owner claims he didn't know how bad this mechanic was so therefore he isn't responsible" I whine - Sorry - Thanks for all the suggestions - I'm sure I'll be back ----did I mention the "NEW SUSPENSION" without grease or an alignment and loose bolts" Bye
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BLstangin
Gearhead Posts: 779
From: St. James, MN
Registered: Apr 2002
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posted 09-10-2003 09:23 AM
Another great e-bay story, just be happy it was minor. Good luck fixing the wiring!  ------------------
1970 coupe restored with the help of my dad. 302 with 600 holley, aluminum intake, headers, pertonix ignitor 2 with matched coil, lakewood bellhousing, 4-speed toploader, and 2.79 open 8" rear. Soon to be 9" 3.50 trac-lok
1986 f-150, 5.0, factory towing package with original c-6 trans
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BLstangin
Gearhead Posts: 779
From: St. James, MN
Registered: Apr 2002
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posted 09-10-2003 09:25 AM
Another great e-bay story. Just be glad it was minor! Good luck fixing the wiring! ------------------
1970 coupe restored with the help of my dad. 302 with 600 holley, aluminum intake, headers, pertonix ignitor 2 with matched coil, lakewood bellhousing, 4-speed toploader, and 2.79 open 8" rear. Soon to be 9" 3.50 trac-lok
1986 f-150, 5.0, factory towing package with original c-6 trans
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ZEATER
Gearhead Posts: 173
From: Mount Pleasant,IA,USA
Registered: Aug 2001
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posted 09-10-2003 10:29 AM
You mean I was right? It was the gauge wiring not the engine? I need to mark this down. It doesn't happen that often.Good luck with the car.
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SG236
Gearhead Posts: 416
From: Jasper, TN, USA
Registered: Dec 2000
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posted 09-10-2003 11:25 AM
After a build or rebuild on a race motor and making about ten passes I take off the oil filter and cut it around the bottom of the outside and remove the cover to see what is actually inside the filter, hopefully there is no metal!Just a little precaution Russ [This message has been edited by SG236 (edited 09-10-2003).]
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