It improved 3 tenths by uping the starting line RPM 2 weeks ago.

I also leaned the motor out a tad as it was running a lil fat, which can kill your bottom end.

I still think my converter is too loose but I can't do anything about that right now. A few more passes and I'll know for sure on that anyway. It stalls at 5400.

I want to get a handle on the tune up before the year ends. Good cool air is coming up in the next month or two, should be perfect for clean crisp runs on the injector hat. I have the biggest jet I have in the main bypass because it has been so hot lately. Can't run it any leaner than it is. If the air is like they say it is this weekend the car tune up should come to me. I'll have another shot at test and tune this Thursday b4 the mega tens big $10,000 race this weekend. If the car runs good I may enter, we will see.

I want to get the 60 ft times down to where they used to be. 1.39-40 is just too slow. The car should 60 ft better than that. My small block 60 ft better than that. At least below a 1.35.

Not worried about the big end, it's strollin on top, just not on bottom. I may have to go back into the motor and set the cam 4 degrees advanced. It is now straight up.

I also noticed today a good bit of drag on both front wheels, which can hurt you a tenth. I'll have to fix that tomorrow.

Any suggestions on improving 60 ft times?

The key to lower 60' times is to get the car to move forward out of the lights, not the front end raising or the rear end squating or both and then moving forward.

You might try stiffening the front shocks so they are harder to seperate or stiffening the rear shocks so you don't squat in the rear. If you have coil over shocks on the rear, you might try preloading the springs a bit more. If you have wheelie bars, you might try lowering them a little at a time but not so much you unload the rear tires.

What air pressure are you running in the rear tires? Is it enough to prevent them from flattening as they are hit?

quote:

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Originally posted by jsracingbbf:

...I also noticed today a good bit of drag on both front wheels, which can hurt you a tenth. I'll have to fix that tomorrow.

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Hey Jerry:
What do you plan to do to loosen up the front discs?
I've got OEM '69 front discs - I wish I could figure out how to loosen up / reduce the drag on them ..... Any ideas?????

My experience with Ford Big Block?s is they like the cam timing to be retarded, at least for the Street/Strip setups I?ve done, just a thought.

My 60fts are 1.28-1.30 and I thought they were a little high, I was thinking more of 1.23s. My car is really squatting when it leaves. I think I will tighten up the rear shocks a .25 turn to see what happens. As far as convertors go mine is a 5000 COAN 10 inch. I think it is too tight and I might have broke the sprag last week. I also think my shoes are worn out!

This is a adjusting season on my car since the combo is new.

Good Luck

Russ

[This message has been edited by SG236 (edited 09-03-2003).]

I will agree though, something is wrong somewhere. Even my little smallblock will 60' better than that now, and it is "tuned down" for greasey track conditions (it still runs consistant 1.37's.) In good air with good traction and the "wick" turned up, it will go under 1.35 consistantly.

the last 4 passes I made I was running 8 lbs of rear tire pressure. also it is not pulling the tires up out of the beams, it is just driving off like your grannys car. ( 1.40 - 60 ft ) the motor is working but nothing happens in the rear.

Buster, I don't think it has anything to do with the motor, I was just thinking out loud on the advance cam thing. The problem is something is soaking up my torque off the line. No tire spin at all.
It could be still in the suspension, but I won't know until I get it to spin or do something other than just leave slow. I am not getting enough power to the rear wheels to make any changes to the suspension. It acts like I am slipping a clutch or something. I think the converter is wrong. It acts like transmission problems, although the fluid looks good. It is an 8 inch converter and all the folks I've talked to say I should be running at least a 9 inch. They say the car is driving through the converter.

SG, I'd be tickled with a 1.28 at this point.

KV I don't know about 1.20's but I'd like to see a 1.30 anyway.

Ryan, I was going to loosen the wheel bearing to where it had zero drag on them. Not sure what you or I would do if it is the calipers dragging. maybe just wear the disk out some till it presents no drag to the wheel?

8 lbs of pressure? What size tires are you running? Mine are 16.0x33.x16 and I usually run tthem at 5.75 lbs.

I almost guarantee you that converter will not handle a BBF. I have yet to find anyone that has had any success with an 8 inch behind a 385 series.

I think it's likely due to the brake pads dragging on the rotors. Jerry/KV (or anyone else), do ya know of a way I can back off the "preload" pressure for the front caliper pistons on my '69 OEM disc setup?

some OEM master cylinders have a built in residual pressure valve behind the flare where the brake line attachs to it. You can remove the brass flare from the master cylinder and the extract the items comprising the residual pressure valve. This should alleviate your problem. Just be forewarned as the pucks wear down, you may have to pump the brakes to extend the the caliper piston.

Jerry,

I had a JW 8" convertor that was fantastic behind the 557 with the JW Ultraglide. They seem to know what it takes to make one in my opinion.

Yeah I might try to make that one. I have a buddy who races SS/EA in a 68 Mustang Cobra Jet (Holds the et record).

Maybe we can get together.

T-Bird,

Give me some more info about the JW 8 inch. If it works I'm interested.

Thanks

quote:

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Originally posted by Tbird:
Ryan,

some OEM master cylinders have a built in residual pressure valve behind the flare where the brake line attachs to it. You can remove the brass flare from the master cylinder and the extract the items comprising the residual pressure valve. This should alleviate your problem. Just be forewarned as the pucks wear down, you may have to pump the brakes to extend the the caliper piston.

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THANKS FOR THE TIP, TBIRD!!
I'll have to investigate that suggestion!