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Author
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Topic: Doing the roller cam jig!
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SundanceKid
Gearhead Posts: 1269
From: UT
Registered: Feb 2001
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posted 08-11-2003 06:08 AM
   
I'm looking to convert a non roller block to a roller. I've looked into the lifters with the link bars and they are spendy at 419.00.
I already have a set of dog bones and a spider for a roller block.
Now as I understand it I can use these on a non roller block if I drill and tap holes? I would imagine this would require a reduced base circle cam right? So my question is has anyone actualy done this before? Any tips? Any web sites out there that could be of any help? Thanks
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Mpcoluv
Gearhead Posts: 1299
From: Charlotte NC usa
Registered: Apr 2001
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posted 08-11-2003 08:48 AM
Yes, it requires a reduced base circle cam.
Virtually every major cam manufacturer makes retrofit cams with the reduced base circles.
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Red65
Gearhead Posts: 115
From: Northglenn, CO, USA
Registered: Jul 2002
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posted 08-11-2003 10:59 AM
It's a piece of cake. Make sure you plug all lifter valley holes before you drill and tap the spider bolt holes. I used a magnet to retreive all the metal filings, then used a q-tip to clean the new holes.The instructions that come with the kit are pretty self-explanatory. The only thing that I wasn't happy with was that my spider was not perfectly centered on the block.
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capri man
Gearhead Posts: 6652
From: doerun, ga.
Registered: Nov 2000
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posted 08-11-2003 11:58 AM
sounds kinda high for lifters. i saw a set of oem type roller lifters on the summit website last night for $119 i think. or you can get them of off e-bay reasonable. according to alex the ford oem lifters are pretty good lifters. for $400 you can get a roller motor out of the junkyard and have everything you need. good luck------------------
mike r
racing is real
everything else is just a game.
81 capri-7.51 @89mph 1/8
1.54 60 ft.
http://prestage.com/site/site_display.asp?SiteID=141
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N266fords
Gearhead Posts: 1586
From: Spokane ,WA USA
Registered: Apr 2003
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posted 08-11-2003 12:28 PM
listen! I did it that way as you described, and I wish I would have done the lifters with the cross link on top and this is why: first you do not have to drill and tap anyholes.Also if you drill and tap be sure not to go into the cam bearings below. second the lifters are not that much more than a retro cam and with the link bars on the lifters you can use a reg cam shaft (roller type of course) this will save you money in the long run on cam swaps..Just my .02 Bruce
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SundanceKid
Gearhead Posts: 1269
From: UT
Registered: Feb 2001
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posted 08-11-2003 02:50 PM
Bruce, I've ran the money numbers both ways and it's close. Cost break down:
OEM lifters, small base circle cam, machine shop doing the drilling and tapping, new cam bearings: 412.00 Pros: Cheap, easily replaceable lifters
Cons: Drilling and tapping, small base circle cam Aftermarket lifters, regular circle cam: 657.00
Aftermarket lifters, motorsport cam: 584.00 Pros: Wider cam selection, cheaper cam selection (Motorsport cams), no drilling
Cons: Expensive initial cost and to replace Red65, would you happen to have a copy of those instructions? Could you fax or email them? Are there any other considerations?
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Red65
Gearhead Posts: 115
From: Northglenn, CO, USA
Registered: Jul 2002
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posted 08-11-2003 04:30 PM
I'll send the instructions as soon as I get home this evening.You don't need a machine shop to drill and tap the spider retaining bolt holes. I did it with my drill and a small hand tap. Just be careful, use a piece of tape on the bit as a depth gauge so you don't get into the cam bearings, and be careful with the metal shavings. Use a glob of grease around the hole to keep the metal from moving much, and plug all holes to keep any stray metal from falling into the engine. I didn't replace my cam bearings, but I knew they were fresh already. You will need a set of correct length push-rods. Either use a checking push-rod to determine the length you need, or use the cam manufacturer's specified pushrods for their conversion kit.
[This message has been edited by Red65 (edited 08-11-2003).]
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SundanceKid
Gearhead Posts: 1269
From: UT
Registered: Feb 2001
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posted 08-11-2003 05:17 PM
Mucho Gracias! I figured I could drill and tap it myself, but for price comparison sake I included the shop fee of 35.00 The grease tip is a good one. Thanks
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Red65
Gearhead Posts: 115
From: Northglenn, CO, USA
Registered: Jul 2002
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posted 08-11-2003 08:26 PM
SundanceKid,You've got mail! Rich
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SundanceKid
Gearhead Posts: 1269
From: UT
Registered: Feb 2001
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posted 08-12-2003 03:53 AM
Red65, I don't have mail.  I thought I updated to my new email here. Could've sworn I did? Anyway, My email address is: [email protected] or @Hotmail.com Also I was 3 posts away to hit 1000 posts and then a day later I was back down to 980 something...conspiracy I tell ya! Thanks again I realy appreciate your effort!
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Red65
Gearhead Posts: 115
From: Northglenn, CO, USA
Registered: Jul 2002
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posted 08-12-2003 10:28 AM
I resent the instructions to your hotmail account.
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