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Author
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Topic: Rod Bearing Clearence?
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thumpin cat
Gearhead Posts: 495
From: Santa Barbara, California
Registered: Mar 2002
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posted 08-09-2003 08:07 PM
  
I measured my Rod Bearing clearence with RED PLASTIGAUGE and got .0025, then i measured the Rod Bearing clearence again with GREEN PLASTIGAUGE and got a bit more than .0015 but not quite .0020 What do you guys think? please let me know thanks.
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jsracingbbf
Gearhead Posts: 2904
From: Batesville,MS. , U.S.A.
Registered: Mar 2002
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posted 08-09-2003 08:33 PM
I think you should use a set of inside outside mics. JS
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thumpin cat
Gearhead Posts: 495
From: Santa Barbara, California
Registered: Mar 2002
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posted 08-09-2003 08:58 PM
Mics are pretty expensive, i might be able to have my machine shop guy do it for me. Plastigauge just pisses me off 
( one of my friends used plastigauge on his main clearences, then used mics. With Green Plastigauge he got .0020, with RED Plastigauge he got .0025, and with the mics he got .0026 ) I think RED Plastigauge is more accurate.[This message has been edited by thumpin cat (edited 08-09-2003).]
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Butch Jennings
Gearhead Posts: 632
From: No. California
Registered: Apr 2000
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posted 08-09-2003 10:33 PM
You can rationalize using plastigauge all you want, but the fact is that it is useless. If I'm checking actual clearances I measure with mics and dial bore gauges (whether I have to borrow them or pay a shop to do it). If I'm just putting an engine together, I'll mic the crank and make sure the bearings are correct (ie: std, .010, .020) and make sure the crank turns nice and doesn't jump around in the saddles. If you get the wrong bearings the crank will either lock up (.020 bearings on an .010 crank) or you can move the crank around in the main bores or jiggle the rods back and forth and see that it's pretty obvious that there's something not right (.010 bearings on a .020 crank). I guess what I'm trying to say is, if you're blueprinting the clearances then do it right, and if you're just putting a driver together then drop the crank in it and if there seems to be a problem then take it apart and measure it with the proper equipment....even if it means having someone else measure it if you don't have the capability. ------------------
Butch
460 powered 1967 Comet Cyclone
10.271 @ 130.231
Butcher's Home Page
"Friends don't let friends drive Chevys"
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thumpin cat
Gearhead Posts: 495
From: Santa Barbara, California
Registered: Mar 2002
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posted 08-10-2003 12:11 AM
Whats a ballpark figure for how much a machine shop would charge to Mic the crank and rod to figure rod bearing clearence? please let me know thanks.
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Butch Jennings
Gearhead Posts: 632
From: No. California
Registered: Apr 2000
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posted 08-10-2003 12:29 AM
Most shops have a minimum shop charge to do anything, usually 1/2 hour minimum. I'd talk to a couple of shops and see what they have to say.------------------
Butch
460 powered 1967 Comet Cyclone
10.271 @ 130.231
Butcher's Home Page
"Friends don't let friends drive Chevys"
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SteveLaRiviere
Administrator Posts: 44935
From: Saco, Maine
Registered: May 99
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posted 08-10-2003 05:09 PM
quote:
Originally posted by thumpin cat:
Mics are pretty expensive
Not compared to an engine.  ------------------
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kid vishus
Gearhead Posts: 6405
From: middle of NC
Registered: Oct 2000
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posted 08-10-2003 05:14 PM
quote:
Originally posted by Butch Jennings:
You can rationalize using plastigauge all you want, but the fact is that it is useless.
Exactly.
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Ryan Wilke
Gearhead Posts: 2289
From: Stanton, Michigan 49707
Registered: Oct 2000
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posted 08-12-2003 08:15 AM
quote:
Originally posted by thumpin cat:
....Plastigauge just pisses me off
( one of my friends used plastigauge on his main clearences, then used mics. With Green Plastigauge he got .0020, with RED Plastigauge he got .0025, and with the mics he got .0026 ) I think RED Plastigauge is more accurate.
Also be aware that Plastigagauge also gets OLD. Meaning it dries out as it ages then it doesn't crush as it should. So if you have old plastigauge, it will "read" different from newer plastigauge.....
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