Go down there tomorrow with your dad, see what the two of you can accomplish. It's not right, but some 'professionals' don't always show a youngster the same respect as they would an older fellow. If you spelled out your requirments and was quoted pricing for the work, and they've not held up their end of the deal, then they are 100% obligated and responsible to make it right. There's absolutely NO reason you need to go shopping for another set of pistons; if they sold them to you under the terms you specified, it's their problem now.

Do be calm-headed about it... shouting and hollering won't gain you anything. Keep us posted.

Without giving names (yet ), where abouts is this machine shop?

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1965 GT coupe, 333ci aluminum headed/solid cammed stroker, four speed, 3.70:1 9"

What heads do you have?

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1965 GT coupe, 333ci aluminum headed/solid cammed stroker, four speed, 3.70:1 9"

quote:

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Originally posted by BLstangin:
I don't want these pistons there is no way to get the compression up with them, they have huge valve reliefs.

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Why not just flat mill the heads down to the cc's you need to get the compression you want? That and use a thinner head gasket should get you the precious 10-1 compression (for the record, you wont be able to tell a bit of difference in 9.5-1 and 10-1 in a street/strip car). The only time it will show is if you accidently put cheap gas in it and then it will ping like a chinese marching band.
I sure wouldn't be in a hurry to throw away or sell parts I just bought. As for them being different sizes, that is very common with new pistons (especially cheaper name pistons). The shop should have numbered each piston, and bored each hole to fit that particular piston.

As for not being treated like a stupid kid, stay calm and stop jumping to conclusions, basically acting like one. That goes a long ways in determining how you will be treated.

Machine shops get stuff done, when it gets done. Expecting them to have it done when they claim it will be is like expectiing the weatherman to be right everyday. It just doesn't matter what shop you go to, or what weather man you listen to, it's not going to happen. Those are the facts of dealing with a machine shop. And the more you pester them about trivial crap, the less likely they are going to be to try and make you happy. They figure you are a one time customer, so it doesn't matter if they get it done on time or not. Not trying to defend the shop, but I have worked part time in a machine shop and getting stuff done on time is almost impossible. Problems come up that you don't expect, a previous customer has a problem and needs something fixed right away, can really throw a monkey wrench into your time frame.

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1970 coupe restored with the help of my dad. 302 with 600 holley, aluminum intake, headers, pertonix ignitor 2 with matched coil, lakewood bellhousing, 4-speed toploader, and 2.79 open 8" rear. Soon to be 9" 3.50 trac-lok
1986 f-150, 5.0, factory towing package with original c-6 trans

quote:

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Originally posted by BLstangin:
Kid, I agree problems arise, but come on, 6 of the pistons don't even slide in the cylinder, and this guy builds circle track motors? Oh ya, if I mill the heads more, then I have to mill my brand new intake. That costs me more money than I have right now, that's why I wanted higher compression pistons to start with.

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I agree, he screwed up when he bored the block. He might have measured 2 of the pistons, found them to be the same size, then bored all the holes that size (too lazy to check all 8). It's a possibility. All the holes should have been bored to match each individual piston.

Milling the heads and intake now would definately be cheaper than buying new pistons. Maybe a thin head gasket will get you close to your desired compression ratio.

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1965 GT coupe, 333ci aluminum headed/solid cammed stroker, four speed, 3.70:1 9"

quote:

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Originally posted by BLstangin:
my pistons are .004 below the deck.

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Your head gasket compressed thickness needs to be .036-.038 MINIMUM, and that's if everything is spot-on (.040 compressed would be safer). I personally would not run any less quench than that; you don't want the pistons smackin' the heads

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1965 GT coupe, 333ci aluminum headed/solid cammed stroker, four speed, 3.70:1 9"

All Blue Oval, no blue bottle
http://mustangsandmore.50megs.com/V8Thumper.html

Be careful about excessively milling stock head castings. Their decks aren't nearly as thick as aftermarket units... and can crack or fail to hold gaskets.

If you paid with a credit card, call the card and stop payment. This will get the shop's attention, and they will then be more willing to resolve the situation. Just don't wait forever. If you paid with a check, and it hasn't gone through yet, call the bank and stop payment on it.

They won't have much of a leg to stand on if six of the pistons won't even fit into their holes... It's not too good to have parts that need precision clearances down to thousanths of an inch that don't even fit in their bores!

Once a shop knows a customer WILL be checking their work, they are usually a little more precise in their machining.

Go ahead and stop the payment. You can swipe your card or write another check once everything is resolved. If you wait too long to do this, you'll lose all your leverage and will have to put up with small claims court if they won't resolve it on their own. DO IT NOW!

After you do this, take EVERYTHING back to the shop and firmly, but POLITELY explain the problem. Explain that you've stopped payment (so it doesn't blindside them) and let them know you'll pay again once everything is straightened out.

By the way, airflow is MUCH more important than compression ratio. Focus on getting air into and out of the engine. If those stock heads aren't seriously ported, you're not going to make much power anyway. Don't cam it too big, (a maximum of around 220-225 @ 0.050" on the intake) and check your rocker arm geometry. The roller should be centered on the valve tip side to side and front to back. Blacken the top of the valve tip with a marker and turn the engine over a few times. The part rubbed off should be no wider than 0.080". Use an adjustable pushrod to get the rocker centered, and get this 'swipe' as narrow as possible... then measure it and buy this length pushrod. Your valvetrain (especially the guides) will thank you for it. Most pushrods come in 0.050" length increments, so round your measurement accordingly.

Good Luck!

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Mike Burch
66 mustang real street
302 4-speed 289 heads
10.63 @ 129.3
http://www.geocities.com/carbedstangs/cmml_mburch.html
http://www.fortunecity.com/silverstone/healey/367
http://www.mustangworks.com/cgi-bin/moi-display.cgi?220

The cam sounds about right.

Good Luck!

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Alex Denysenko
Co-Administrator and Moderator

NHRA/IHRA/SRA member and licensed Superstock driver
MCA member# 53321
NHRA and IHRA SS/LA National Record Holder '00,'01,'02,&'03
First SS/MA in the TENS!
Fleet of FoMoCo products including 88 ASC McLaren Mustang #28
Professional Manwhore
The Barry of BarrysGrrl

On a positive note there ARE many competent machine shops out there. When I picked up my 351C - exactly when they said I could - it literally fell together.

Tracy