My Falcon has been a bit inconsistent in 60 foot times. It has been jumping around from .04 - .06 on the same day sometimes. When the 60 foot falls off, it wiggles around all the way through first gear

My ladder bars are in the top hole. I am currently running 7.5 pounds of air in my 14 x 32 Goodyears. Shocks are four clicks from full soft. I have a 4800 chip in the 2 step.

I will try less air and softer shock settings to start with next week. As it takes several passes to test this, I am wondering if anybody has any other ideas. I don't want to change too many things at once so I don't know which one helped or hindered the problem.

Any thoughts?

Thanks.

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63 Falcon 377 Cleveland stroker Flying Toilet alchohol injection. 6.19 @ 110 MPH 1/8 mile
2002 Ranger FX4 daily driver
2000 F350 PSD Crew cab dually - Like commuting in a B52!!
98 US Cargo Phantom II 28'

[This message has been edited by Dad Vishus (edited 07-21-2003).]

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Originally posted by kid vishus:
You already know what I think you should try first.

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quote:

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Originally posted by Tbird:
I would try stiffeing the shock settings first and have the right rear shock a couple clicks stiffer than the left rear.

How much front end travel do you have? Possibly too much? Or not enough?

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I'll answer what I know about the car till the old man gets time to respond.

It is a full tube chassis car, and the motor has been set back I would bet around a foot.

It has no front end travel. However, it normally hooks real well and goes straight as an arrow. The impression I got is that it's not spinning the tires on the initial hit, but spinning after it gets out just a little ways.

I normally only stagger shock settings if the car isn't leaving straight, and I don't believe that is the problem with DadV's car.

The car has little or no front suspension travel in the up direction. When its sitting on jack stands the front wheels are in about the same position as when its on the floor.

It launches absolutely flat and straight.

I also believe that the wheel spin that is making 60 foot times bounce around is after the initial hit. It is not severe spin, just enough to make the back end of the car wiggle a little, but enough to slow 60 foot times.

When the track conditions are good, cool surface in particular, the thing is deadly. I've had 3 passes in a row that didn't vary more than .003.

When the track is hot the consistency goes away. I realize I have to live with a certain amount of this, but .06 difference in one day is an awful lot. I'd sure like to get this down to .01 or .02 if possible.

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63 Falcon 377 Cleveland stroker Flying Toilet alchohol injection. 6.19 @ 110 MPH 1/8 mile
2002 Ranger FX4 daily driver
2000 F350 PSD Crew cab dually - Like commuting in a B52!!
98 US Cargo Phantom II 28'

It actually evens out. I may be wrong but I don't think he suggested it to make your car drive straight, it was to make it hook more.

When you stiffen up that shock a little it doesn't seperate as fast as the other one and this helps plant the other tire better which will help traction, or that's how it was explained to me.

If it wasn't going straight you would need more than one or two clicks to make it right.

quote:

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Originally posted by jsracingbbf:
on some high powered light cars,

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I think his car weighs almost 3000 lbs with driver. It's not what I would call light, and the powerglitch trans kills any low gear leverage he might have.

My car has substantially less motor, but will run just as quick, if not quicker than his most of the time, and it's all in the 60' where I get him. DadV's will out mph me though, but I'll get there first.

But, it's definately something for him to try, it doesn't cost anything.

Are the shocks single adjustable or double adjustable? The singles are find for many cars but some actually neeed double adjustable shocks.

Most times you want to adjust only the compression of the right rear so it is stiffer than the left rear. This helps over come the normal rotational torque of the rear end trying to pull the right rear tire into the fender well.

You usually want to adjust the rebound tighter on the left rear shock to over come the normal torque rotational effects of forcing the left wheel out of the fender well. You usually have this side compression set softer to help and not resist any efforts of the left rear wheel staying or being pulled into the feder well.