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Author Topic:   5.0 update, need help on order of events
I65Stang
Gearhead

Posts: 5941
From: Antelope, CA
Registered: Jun 99

posted 07-11-2003 04:27 PM     Click Here to See the Profile for I65Stang   Click Here to Email I65Stang     Edit/Delete Message   Reply w/Quote
Ok, so I finished pulling the 5.0 apart today. A little background info: timing chain was stretched til it broke, #1 exhaust pushrod was shattered at the top, intake pushrod was bent and jammed between the head and rocker, rockers were still nice and tight. When I took my intake off first thing I noticed was a little spring. Yup, the exhaust lifter of #1 is totally apart (the rest was in the lifter gulley, I even found the broken retaining wire) and the retaining wire of the intake lifter is about to come off. There is no evidence of the valves hitting the piston, in fact the cylinder head is passing the water test (combustion chamber) with flying colors. The #1 spark plug and chamber is totally caked in black.

So any ideas as to what happened? I dont think I need to pull the passengers side head, everything looks great over there. I know I need to pull the lifters out to look for wear on the bearings (roller cam) but what after that? Thanks for any and all help.

------------------
Tim

M&M Member #35
1965 Mustang coupe, 200 I6, Holley 2300, Clifford header, true duals w/ 26" Smithys
1988 Mustang GT AOD vert, 15.810 @ 88.871 mph 100% stock w/ no traction
https://mustangsandmore.com/ubb/I65Stang.html

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steve'66
Gearhead

Posts: 6522
From: Sonoma,CA,USA
Registered: Mar 2000

posted 07-11-2003 05:14 PM     Click Here to See the Profile for steve'66   Click Here to Email steve'66     Edit/Delete Message   Reply w/Quote
Tim,

Pull the #1 valves out and check them and the valve guides. Next, pull the cam and lifters. Something stopped the cam, maybe the lifter letting go, maybe a valve sticking in the head?
If you can drop the pan, it would be nice to see what debris is down there too.

SteveW

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I65Stang
Gearhead

Posts: 5941
From: Antelope, CA
Registered: Jun 99

posted 07-12-2003 12:47 AM     Click Here to See the Profile for I65Stang   Click Here to Email I65Stang     Edit/Delete Message   Reply w/Quote
Thanks Steve, I'll pull the valves out and the cam. Problem with dropping the pan is it is a dual sump so I would have to pull the engine which is what I am trying to avoid.

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steve'66
Gearhead

Posts: 6522
From: Sonoma,CA,USA
Registered: Mar 2000

posted 07-12-2003 12:54 AM     Click Here to See the Profile for steve'66   Click Here to Email steve'66     Edit/Delete Message   Reply w/Quote
Ok Tim,

Let's find out what stoped the camshaft.

SteveW

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I65Stang
Gearhead

Posts: 5941
From: Antelope, CA
Registered: Jun 99

posted 07-12-2003 04:56 PM     Click Here to See the Profile for I65Stang   Click Here to Email I65Stang     Edit/Delete Message   Reply w/Quote
I had a few minutes so I pulled the lifters from the #1 cylinder, there is absolutely no damage to the bearing on the lifter at all. So basically I have a bent and a broken pushrod, a lifter totally apart and one coming apart, and a broken timing chain. I'm going to pull the valves and probably take the other head off too.

Now cylinder #1 of the head is totally caked which makes me think it wasnt burning and letting out for a while. Could excess pressure from a cylinders exhaust not opening cause a timing chain to stretch and break? I've never heard of that before . When it died I was at a stopsign, noticed the car miss and then it just died.

------------------
Tim

M&M Member #35
1965 Mustang coupe, 200 I6, Holley 2300, Clifford header, true duals w/ 26" Smithys
1988 Mustang GT AOD vert, 15.810 @ 88.871 mph 100% stock w/ no traction
https://mustangsandmore.com/ubb/I65Stang.html

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steve'66
Gearhead

Posts: 6522
From: Sonoma,CA,USA
Registered: Mar 2000

posted 07-12-2003 05:29 PM     Click Here to See the Profile for steve'66   Click Here to Email steve'66     Edit/Delete Message   Reply w/Quote
Tim,

I would give it a valve job, new rockers, pushrods, cam, lifters, and timing chain. In other words change the cam and all associated valvetrain components. They have plenty of miles on them and if one let go the rest is not far away from repeating the ordeal for you.

Now get to work.

SteveW

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I65Stang
Gearhead

Posts: 5941
From: Antelope, CA
Registered: Jun 99

posted 07-12-2003 06:01 PM     Click Here to See the Profile for I65Stang   Click Here to Email I65Stang     Edit/Delete Message   Reply w/Quote
Lol, thats exactly what I was thinking. Fix any part that possibly caused it. I am going to take the heads back to the place that I had them totally rebuilt at (3K miles ago lol) to have them checked out. Time to spend some money. Whats ironic is those parts minus the heads and timing chain are the ONLY parts that I did not replace when I built it lol but they were all checked and ok.

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RonnieT
Gearhead

Posts: 597
From: Port Allen, La. 70767
Registered: Jun 99

posted 07-12-2003 08:48 PM     Click Here to See the Profile for RonnieT   Click Here to Email RonnieT     Edit/Delete Message   Reply w/Quote
Tim,

If I just read correctly the timing chain that broke only had 3K miles on it? If that is correct I would look at the cam bearing also, timing chains don't just break in that short of time with out something being wrong. I would pull the lifters and make sure the cam spins free.

------------------
Ronnie
69 mach1 351W-4V engineless at the time!
70 Torino GT 351C-4v with a "shaker"
Mustangs and More Member #23

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I65Stang
Gearhead

Posts: 5941
From: Antelope, CA
Registered: Jun 99

posted 07-14-2003 05:01 PM     Click Here to See the Profile for I65Stang   Click Here to Email I65Stang     Edit/Delete Message   Reply w/Quote
Heads are at the machine shop getting checked out (passengers side showed no problems whatsoever). Cam rolls without a problem (like its on bearings lol), smooth as a babys butt. Now just waiting on a call from my machine guy and figuring out the rest of the parts.

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