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Author	Topic: Need help with brake plumbing - very soon!
Hipo67 Gearhead Posts: 133 From: Sioux City, IA, USA Registered: Jul 99	posted 06-08-2003 08:22 PM Alex and all, I am trying to finish an '89LX drag car to take to Mid-America Ford Performance and Shelby Meet in Tulsa the third week in June. I have made a shakedown run and found a few things that I need to rework, fix or figure out. The most pressing is this: The car was a 4 cylinder that had power assisted brakes (discs in front and drum rears). I replaced the front discs with Ranger rotors and discs and replaced the whole rearend with custom 9" with drums out of a cougar -- I know I really didn't need the extra 80 lbs back there. I installed a manual spacer plate and used the master cylinder out of a '94 Mustang. I plumbed the brake line from the master cylinder to the original 4 cylinder proportioning valve. I have a picture of this at: http://photos.yahoo.com/hipo67 under 89 LX Drag Car. I found out that I did not pay very good attention to how the brake lines ran (crossed over) so I have hooked one front brake and both back brakes to the line lock (roll control). OOPS! Additionally there are 3/16" fittings and one line that has metric fittings. Well this has me wondering if I made other mistakes. Can I successfully use the 4 cylinder proportioning valve? If so does the line from the master cylinder outlet (closest to the firewall) hook into the proportioning block closest to the radiator? The line from the front of the master cylinder to the back of the proportioning valve (port closest to the firewall on the propostioning valve)uses metric fittings. I HATE METRIC anything! LOL I have tried to look up this type hookup in books but can't find any definite diagrams. Can you guide me through this mess to make sure I have the primary of the master cylinder pumping correctly into the proportioning valve and then into the roll control unit and then to the two front brake lines. I was told the ports on the proportioning valve are specific to front brakes and back brakes respectively. Need help quickly. Thanks Gene ------------------ 1964 Falcon Ranchero (in the works) 1965 Sunbeam Tiger (in the works) 92 Mustang 5.0 LX Convertible 89 Mustang Coupe (Drag car ... just about done) photos.yahoo.com/hipo67 IP: Logged
ciscokid Journeyman Posts: 70 From: Cleveland, TN Registered: Jul 2001	posted 06-09-2003 09:12 AM Do yourself a favor and go out and buy an aftermarket master cylinder that is based on the lightweight Mopar master cylinders and ditch the Ford part. The rear port on these master cylinders are high volume, which is needed for the front disks, while the front port is for drums. You probably won't need a proportioning valve for drag racing use, but if you find that you are locking up the front tires on heavy braking you could put one on at a later date. I would NOT use the stock proportioning valve with any master cylinder except for the original. It won't be balanced right for any other MC. Hooking up the Mopar style MC is easy. Just plumb the front port straight to the rear brake line, and run the rear port to the line lock input. Run the line lock output to a TEE, one side to each front brake caliper. All standard fittings. 3/16" line. DOUBLE FLARE everything CAREFULLY. Don't use stainless steel brake line as you will not be able to make a good double flare with a hand operated flaring tool. Look at the Aerospace Components AC-MBC7993 setup which is for the early Fox body Mustangs. I think Jegs carries it. If you have to have a prop valve, use an adjustable one like a Wilwood 260-2220 plumbed into the front brake line between the line lock and the TEE. You can set it to whatever is needed to keep the front brakes from locking up. IP: Logged
BarrysGrrl Gearhead Posts: 1356 From: Illinois/Indiana & parts inbetween Registered: Jan 2002	posted 06-09-2003 09:43 AM Lose the proportioning valve and just make a "tee" fitting or juction block Gene. The master you have is OK. They make metric to SAE fitting adapters. Or just replace the line with a new SAE one. ------------------ Beth Head Cheerleader for Moneymaker Racing! "My best friend is the one who brings out the best in me." - Henry Ford (for Alex) Alex & Beth's Homepage MoneymakerRacing.com IP: Logged
Tbird Gearhead Posts: 145 From: USA Registered: May 2003	posted 06-09-2003 10:45 AM This catalog might help you figure out what adapters you need. http://hydraulics.eaton.com/products/pdfs/WH202j_sections/Hydraulic_Brake_Fittings.pdf Towards the end of it is metric to sae adapters.... IP: Logged
Inbred-Jed Journeyman Posts: 40 From: Chester, Wv 26034 Registered: Mar 2003	posted 06-10-2003 09:50 PM I think your master cylinder is fine. My is for a 67 mustang with 4 wheel drums and I changed mine over to 4 wheel wilwood kits and it stops great at 130+ mph. I think you should ditch the factory proportioning valve. Run a line out of the rear of the master cylinder into your linelock and out into a tee fitting. Run two lines from the tee to each side of the car. Cut and flare your own lines its easier. Run a line from the front of the master cylinder to a wilwood knob style proportioning valve and out to the rear into the factory tee at the rear of the car. I have my valve at 75%. This is how i did mine it it works great. IP: Logged
Hipo67 Gearhead Posts: 133 From: Sioux City, IA, USA Registered: Jul 99	posted 06-11-2003 12:20 AM Thanks to all for your help! I have ditched the original proportioning valve and run the lines as necessary. I haven't gotten an aftermarket porportioning valve yet. None to be had in town. Will try and run without it for my next test run. But sounds like a good investment before serious running. Thanks again, Gene IP: Logged

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