Author
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Topic: trac-loc ???
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sodi Gearhead Posts: 197 From: Kenosha Wi. USA Registered: Dec 2002
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posted 06-08-2003 12:53 PM
How much work is it to change an open-end to a trac-loc? I have a 9" open 28spline. is it just a matter of swapping them or do they need to be calibrated and and miked to be refit to each individual situation.. PS looking for a trac-loc------------------
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V8 Thumper Gearhead Posts: 4377 From: Arizona Registered: Dec 2001
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posted 06-08-2003 08:33 PM
If you can find (and/or afford) a complete 3rd member, it's a bolt-in. Prices range from the mid-$600 range (need work) to $2000+ A used Trac-Lok carrier can be found for around $100. It'll usually needs clutches ($50). Regardless if you intend on new or used gears, they'll need to be calibrated or 'set up' for pinion depth and lash, also needing carrier bearings at the very least (you'll never get your old carrier bearings off without damaging them). While into it this far, it's highly recommended to replace the pinion bearings too. Even if you find a used T-lok and re-use your old gears, you're not likely to get out of it for less than $500. There's complete 9" 3rd members on Ebay all the time. Mustangs Plus also now offer complete 3rds I believe ------------------ 1965 GT coupe, 333ci aluminum headed/solid cammed stroker, four speed, 3.70:1 9" All Blue Oval, no blue bottle http://mustangsandmore.50megs.com/V8Thumper.html
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n2oMike Gearhead Posts: 2419 From: Spencer, WV Registered: Jan 2001
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posted 06-08-2003 09:56 PM
If all you are doing is replacing the open differential with the t-lok in the existing case, the pinion isn't getting messed with, so backlash is all you need to keep track of.Clean the unit out really well with gasoline to cut the grease so you can get an accurate reading on backlash before taking the unit apart. Then, replace the open carrier with the t-lok, set the backlash to what it was with the open carrier and you're set. This won't work if new gears are used, since pinion depth needs to be adjusted, but as long as the differential is the only part getting changed out, this 'short' method works great. Good Luck! ------------------ Mike Burch 66 mustang real street 302 4-speed 289 heads 10.63 @ 129.3 http://www.geocities.com/carbedstangs/cmml_mburch.html http://www.fortunecity.com/silverstone/healey/367 http://www.mustangworks.com/cgi-bin/moi-display.cgi?220
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steve'66 Gearhead Posts: 8826 From: Sonoma,CA,USA Registered: Mar 2000
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posted 06-08-2003 10:35 PM
Ditto,What Mikee said. Don't forget to preload the carrier bearings too. SteveW
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RonnieT Gearhead Posts: 827 From: Port Allen, La. 70767 Registered: Jun 99
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posted 06-09-2003 10:38 PM
I am not fond of using gasoline as a cleaning agent. You can use desiel or kerosene to remove most of the oil and gunk then use carb cleaner or brake part cleaner to remove the remaining oil and it is not so dangerous. Oven cleaner or Super Clean also does a good job removing the oil, you just have to make sure and oil blow all the water out and spray things down with some light oil to keep it from rusting.------------------ Ronnie 69 mach1 351W-4V engineless at the time! 70 Torino GT 351C-4v with a "shaker" Mustangs and More Member #23
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