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Author Topic:   Build me a 393 Stroker?
Kellxr7
Gearhead

Posts: 129
From: Medstead SK Canada
Registered: Mar 2003

posted 05-31-2003 12:15 PM     Click Here to See the Profile for Kellxr7   Click Here to Email Kellxr7     Edit/Delete Message   Reply w/Quote
I want to start slowly buying parts for my 351 to slowly transform it into a RELIABLE 392, Can anyone give me some hints, So far I have a 69 bare block, I plan on using AFR 205 heads,I plan to get it fully balanced, H beam rods, a main girdle,high volume oil pump, Scat crank, mallory dizzy, torker II intake, & still confused about a carb & pistons.

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N266fords
Gearhead

Posts: 557
From: Spokane ,WA USA
Registered: Apr 2003

posted 05-31-2003 12:34 PM     Click Here to See the Profile for N266fords   Click Here to Email N266fords     Edit/Delete Message   Reply w/Quote
i would skip the mallory and get an msd billet dist. also go with the victor jr and msd make a dist for the victor jr by the way..Bruce

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Kellxr7
Gearhead

Posts: 129
From: Medstead SK Canada
Registered: Mar 2003

posted 05-31-2003 12:47 PM     Click Here to See the Profile for Kellxr7   Click Here to Email Kellxr7     Edit/Delete Message   Reply w/Quote
quote:
Originally posted by N266fords:
i would skip the mallory and get an msd billet dist.


Whats wrong with the Mallory? I do have a msd billet on my 302 & I am happy with it It's just that the mallory is alot cheaper, ,cheaper maybe the quality aint as good.(usually works that way)

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scottford351
Journeyman

Posts: 47
From: reedsville ohio usa
Registered: May 2003

posted 05-31-2003 03:29 PM     Click Here to See the Profile for scottford351   Click Here to Email scottford351     Edit/Delete Message   Reply w/Quote
You may want to watch your deck height and compression height of the pistons.The 69-70 blocks were .022 shorter 9.480vs9.502 .I used a late model block and only had .012 deck clearance before decking and your block is .022 shorter.you may be fine but i wanted to give you hind sight ahead of time .good luck I love mine.

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91 LX 398w street/bracket 6.88 1/8 60FT 1.44

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68DARKHORSE
Gearhead

Posts: 337
From: Austin, Tx
Registered: Aug 2002

posted 06-01-2003 11:10 PM     Click Here to See the Profile for 68DARKHORSE   Click Here to Email 68DARKHORSE     Edit/Delete Message   Reply w/Quote
If your crank is forged, H beam rods are the way to go(NOS).

If your crank is not forged, go with I beam rods. With less mass your crank will live longer and rev quicker.

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68 GT FASTBACK

www.imboc.com/phpBB/Uploads/1020432917.jpg

01 GT BULLITT

www.imboc.com/phpBB/Uploads/1020440453.jpg

96 OJ BRONCO

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RonnieT
Gearhead

Posts: 597
From: Port Allen, La. 70767
Registered: Jun 99

posted 06-02-2003 09:24 PM     Click Here to See the Profile for RonnieT   Click Here to Email RonnieT     Edit/Delete Message   Reply w/Quote
The first question is wheter you are building a street or strip engine, you can spend a lot of money on parts that are not necessary for a street engine. I am looking at building a 393 or 408 for my 69 right now and piston choices are slim for the 9.480 block. Most all the kits are figured for the 9.502 block, so the C/R they show is not correct for your engine as Scott said. Before I bent a rod my engine was supposed to be a 11:1 engine, but I let the shop do al the math and ended up in the upper 12:1 range, can we say detonation!! Another thing to think about is if the block has ever been decked, or needs to be, this can knock .005" - .010" of the deck height and bump your C/R up even higher. I have done the math on many different combos and have only found a couple that have acceptable C/R for my street engine, looks like the 408 may be my choice to keep from having custom pistons made to get me around 11:1.

Anyone know how much the block needs to be clearanced for a 4" stoke crank?

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Ronnie
69 mach1 351W-4V engineless at the time!
70 Torino GT 351C-4v with a "shaker"
Mustangs and More Member #23

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