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Author Topic:   Oil Accumulator
jsracingbbf
Gearhead

Posts: 2898
From: Batesville,MS. , U.S.A.
Registered: Mar 2002

posted 05-13-2003 10:00 PM     Click Here to See the Profile for jsracingbbf   Click Here to Email jsracingbbf     Edit/Delete Message   Reply w/Quote
I just bought one of those MOROSO 3 QT Oil accumulators for my race car and I am fighting an urge to take the thing apart. It came with pretty good instructions.It also says it has a floating piston and a spring to push oil into the engine. has anyone had one of these things apart? How does it work?

------------------
Jerry
69 Mustang Pro ET Drag
70 Mustang retired former footbrake car

"Whiskey for my men, beer for my Horses" -- Toby Keith

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Hemikiller
Gearhead

Posts: 661
From: Killingworth, CT
Registered: Feb 2002

posted 05-13-2003 10:52 PM     Click Here to See the Profile for Hemikiller   Click Here to Email Hemikiller     Edit/Delete Message   Reply w/Quote
Actually, the whole deal is driven by air pressure. The accumulator should be "preloaded" with air pressure which forces the piston up against the oil inlet side. When the engine is started, the oil then forces the piston back until the air pressure rises to equal the oil pressure. If the oil pressure drops the air then forces more oil into the engine until the pressure equalizes or returns to normal. The piston is generally in constant motion with the changes in rpm etc.

Check this link for more info.

http://www.accusump.com/

BTW: The Moroso unit is a blatant copy of the Accusump. They got away with the patent infringement by using c-clipped end caps instead of screw in ones...

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jsracingbbf
Gearhead

Posts: 2898
From: Batesville,MS. , U.S.A.
Registered: Mar 2002

posted 05-13-2003 11:09 PM     Click Here to See the Profile for jsracingbbf   Click Here to Email jsracingbbf     Edit/Delete Message   Reply w/Quote
yeah, I knew how it worked, I just wanted to see inside of it. I don't have a big enough pair of snap ring pliers. I wonder where the best place to mount it would be. Next I need to spec out a 12V ASCO valve rated for OIL so I can operate it remote.


JS

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jsracingbbf
Gearhead

Posts: 2898
From: Batesville,MS. , U.S.A.
Registered: Mar 2002

posted 05-14-2003 04:22 PM     Click Here to See the Profile for jsracingbbf   Click Here to Email jsracingbbf     Edit/Delete Message   Reply w/Quote
Hey Hemi killer, didn't you used to work for those folks, Canton Oil pans? You don't happen to know the part number of the ASCO Red Hat fluid valve they use as a remote open valve for their accumulators do you?

JS

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Hemikiller
Gearhead

Posts: 661
From: Killingworth, CT
Registered: Feb 2002

posted 05-14-2003 05:57 PM     Click Here to See the Profile for Hemikiller   Click Here to Email Hemikiller     Edit/Delete Message   Reply w/Quote
I can't remember the #. I do remember that they came from Australia or something, and were pretty expensive to boot.

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ironbullet
Journeyman

Posts: 39
From: wytheville va usa
Registered: May 2003

posted 05-14-2003 06:12 PM     Click Here to See the Profile for ironbullet   Click Here to Email ironbullet     Edit/Delete Message   Reply w/Quote
I wouldn't reccomend taking it apart you might damage the seal , anyway there is nothing to one it's about like a bicycle pump but closed at the top to hold air pressure.

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jsracingbbf
Gearhead

Posts: 2898
From: Batesville,MS. , U.S.A.
Registered: Mar 2002

posted 05-14-2003 09:34 PM     Click Here to See the Profile for jsracingbbf   Click Here to Email jsracingbbf     Edit/Delete Message   Reply w/Quote
I tested it without taking it apart. works fine no leaks. Since I bought it cheap & used I wanted to test it out. It's been on test for 6 hrs at 60 PSI with no leaks. So far so good. The solenoid is cheaper to get it through Canton than it is to order through industrial warehouse. Only way to save money on it is buy 100.
I only need one and it is a smooth C note.

Racing is nickel and diming me to death. BUT what a way to go
JS

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