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Author
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Topic: Head bolt sealant
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MAV
Gearhead Posts: 173
From: Macon,Georgia, U.S.A.
Registered: Mar 2002
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posted 04-15-2003 06:17 PM
   
What do you guys like to use on head Bolts that go into water jackets?------------------
http://maverickgrabber.iwarp.com [This message has been edited by MAV (edited 04-15-2003).]
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V8 Thumper
Gearhead Posts: 4044
From: Orange, Ca. United States of America
Registered: Dec 2001
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posted 04-15-2003 07:12 PM
RTV silicone, nothing special  ------------------
1965 GT coupe, 333ci aluminum headed/solid cammed stroker, four speed, 3.70:1 9" All Blue Oval, no blue bottle
http://mustangsandmore.50megs.com/V8Thumper.html
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Moneymaker
Administrator Posts: 21725
From: Lyons, IL, USA
Registered: May 99
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posted 04-16-2003 10:46 AM
Or anti seize.------------------
Alex Denysenko
Co-Administrator and Moderator NHRA/IHRA/SRA member and licensed Superstock driver
MCA member# 53321
NHRA and IHRA SS/LA National Record Holder '00,'01,'02,&'03
Fleet of FoMoCo products including 88 ASC McLaren Mustang #28
Professional Manwhore
The Barry of BarrysGrrl Quote #1: "I never met a magazine mechanic I liked."
Quote #2: "Make sure brain is in gear before engaging mouth!"
Quote #3: "If you can't run with the big dogs, stay on the porch!"
www.moneymakerracing.com
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n2oMike
Gearhead Posts: 1805
From: Spencer, WV
Registered: Jan 2001
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posted 04-16-2003 11:19 AM
Just make sure to run a tap through the bolt holes and clean them out really well with brake cleaner (or some similar degreaser) before blowing the holes out with air.My personal preference is Permatex Hylomar, but the other stuff works just fine. Good Luck! ------------------
Mike Burch
66 mustang real street
302 4-speed 289 heads
10.63 @ 129.3
http://www.geocities.com/carbedstangs/cmml_mburch.html
http://www.fortunecity.com/silverstone/healey/367
http://www.mustangworks.com/cgi-bin/moi-display.cgi?220
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Capri
Gearhead Posts: 1254
From: Lyons, ILL, USA
Registered: May 99
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posted 04-17-2003 08:19 PM
Yes Mike, But there is a slight problem with running a tap through the bolt holes. It would depend on if the motor is on the engine stand or in the car. You can zip the tap through the bolt holes and clean them out on the stand BEFORE the block goes to the machine shop. This way when its tanked after machining, it can clean out any or all of the misc particles that could be floating around. Any loose jive getting in the cooling system could cause problems depending on the size. For instance, seizing up a water pump bearing. I have seen this happen at the dealership on a Focus of all things.If you have pulled the heads to change gaskets, and the block is in the car, you would want to get as much coolant out as you can by spinning the water pump, and using a jack to get the back of the car way high so it pours out the front. Once the level is down, use some paper towel to soak up most of what is left over in each bolt hole. After that, then use fresh paper towel with brakekleen to clean and dry out the hole. If you do use some compressed air, be careful of flying stuff. If you ever have a reason to have your stuff apart as much as we do, then use anti-seize on the head bolt washer and silicone on the bolt thread. Either way you go, pay careful attention to dropping extra particles into the coolant passages. ------------------
Tony Denysenko
O-P/SA 5302 IHRA Stock Eliminator
H-I/FA 3302 NHRA Stock Eliminator
MoneyMaker Racing
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bfxcomet
Gearhead Posts: 617
From: Port Alberni, B.C. , Canada
Registered: Mar 2001
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posted 04-18-2003 12:53 AM
A wet/dry shop vac works good for sucking the holes clean. If you use anti-seize, I would recomend using nickel instead of copper anti-seize.
Roger------------------
65 comet project
84 T-bird 302/C4 14sec street/strip
Made in CANADA built for speed
#1145
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timjk
Journeyman Posts: 56
From:
Registered: Oct 2001
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posted 04-18-2003 07:47 PM
I find that Ultrablack RTV works great. I see alot of people using teflon thread sealant, but I believe this is really made to use on pipe threads only.Tim
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