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Author
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Topic: Uh Oh!! I smell anti-freeze
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bluestreek
Gearhead Posts: 1460
From: Athens,GA
Registered: Jul 2001
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posted 03-16-2003 09:17 PM
   
I drove my car to a friends house today and on the way home I decided to pass a 18 wheeler very quickly. I wound it up to 6000 rpms in 3rd gear while passing and started to smell anti-freeze. I looked over at the heater box and it was dripping on my brand new carpet!!  It stopped leaking as soon as I slowed to normal speed and didn't leak anymore on the 20 mile trip back home. Does this mean that I need an underdrive pulley for my water pump or could I have a head geasket getting ready to blow?? I checked the overflow and it was still bone dry. Radiator pressure seemed normal. Now I'm afraid to run it hard anymore.  Dan
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Moneymaker
Administrator Posts: 21725
From: Lyons, IL, USA
Registered: May 99
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posted 03-16-2003 09:26 PM
It means you need a new heater core.
It's a 12 pack job on a Mustang. ------------------
Alex Denysenko
Co-Administrator and Moderator NHRA/IHRA/SRA member and licensed Superstock driver
MCA member# 53321
NHRA and IHRA SS/LA National Record Holder '00,'01,'02,&'03
Fleet of FoMoCo products including 88 ASC McLaren Mustang #28
Professional Manwhore
The Barry of BarrysGrrl Quote #1: "I never met a magazine mechanic I liked."
Quote #2: "Make sure brain is in gear before engaging mouth!"
Quote #3: "If you can't run with the big dogs, stay on the porch!"
www.moneymakerracing.com
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MrXerox
Gearhead Posts: 332
From: Oklahoma City, Oklahoma
Registered: Nov 2000
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posted 03-16-2003 09:38 PM
Buy yourself a 6 inch piece of heater hose and make a loop from the water pump outlet to the block return thus bypassing your heater core for now. Look on the bright side, at least it went out when the weather is starting to warm up  [This message has been edited by MrXerox (edited 03-16-2003).]
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johnmustang
Gearhead Posts: 5144
From: British Columbia , Canada
Registered: Nov 2001
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posted 03-16-2003 10:24 PM
I just did my 65 fastback a little while ago, it is a very easy job to do, while you have it apart you might as well change your heater plenum if you still have the stock paper one. Buy the new plastic ones, also get new heater defrost hoses and be done with it. Like Alex said it is a 12 pack job, just be sure you finish it before you finish the twelve pack  JOHN  ------------------
65 2+2 FASTBACK
87 TAURUS WAGON
98 F150 XLT TRITON V8 4.6, 4 WHEEL DRIVE
Member:Vancouver Island Mustang Association
M&M #1710
MyPhotoPage
MY TRUCK
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n2oMike
Gearhead Posts: 1805
From: Spencer, WV
Registered: Jan 2001
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posted 03-16-2003 11:03 PM
You might think about inserting a restrictor in the INLET side heater hose. This will eliminate pressure spikes in the core, while still allowing plenty of water through for good heating.Do NOT put it on the outlet side, or it will only make the pressure spikes worse. The INLET is the hose from the intake manifold. A special restrictor can be fabbed, or an old appropriate sized socket can be placed in the hose, and held in place with a hose clamp. Good Luck! ------------------
Mike Burch
66 mustang real street
302 4-speed 289 heads
10.63 @ 129.3
http://www.geocities.com/carbedstangs/cmml_mburch.html
http://www.fortunecity.com/silverstone/healey/367
http://www.mustangworks.com/cgi-bin/moi-display.cgi?220
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Ryan Wilke
Gearhead Posts: 1700
From: Stanton, Michigan 49707
Registered: Oct 2000
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posted 03-17-2003 12:04 AM
Excellent idea, Mike!
I'll have to remember that one!!
 Ryan
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bluestreek
Gearhead Posts: 1460
From: Athens,GA
Registered: Jul 2001
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posted 03-17-2003 01:56 AM
I like MrXerox idea for now. I'll just bypass the heater until I have a new core in my hands. Any good tips for removing that sucker besides the 12 pack of beer? I seem to remember someone saying that it's kinda tricky to get that contraption out of the dash. I just got through putting in new upholstery, carpet, dashpad, glovebox, instrument bezel, stereo, windsheild, headliner, package tray, speakers,.. the works. Now the heater core goes bad! Many thanks for the help guys. DanH. ------------------
1966 Mustang Coupe: Custom glass hood and BIG scoop sits atop a 289 stroked to 331 c.i., Steel crank and girdle, 5.4 H-beams, Forged slugs, TFS alum. heads, ported Stealth 8020 intake, CompCams Xtreme Solid Roller, Holley 750 HP, long tubes, 4speed, 9" 3.50 posi.
e.t. 12.50 @ 112 mph
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KULTULZ
Gearhead Posts: 470
From: Rockville, MD
Registered: Oct 2002
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posted 03-17-2003 06:53 AM
-Performance Parts, Inc.- quote:
1986-93Police heater hose inlet flow restrictor, reduces risk of heater core "blow out" due to high coolant pressure, heater functions normally, simple 5 minute installation, featured in the 8/94 and 7/97 Super Ford, 2/95 and 11/98 Mustang Monthly and 3/96 MM & FF, new $ 19.99/each
------------------
I am looking for information concerning factory performance/speed parts used on the MEL (Mercury-Edsel-Lincoln) Engine Series (383-410-430-462) from 1958 thru 1968.
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n2oMike
Gearhead Posts: 1805
From: Spencer, WV
Registered: Jan 2001
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posted 03-17-2003 10:19 AM
quote:
Originally posted by bluestreek:
Any good tips for removing that sucker besides the 12 pack of beer?
It's not NEARLY as bad as changing one on an air conditioned fox body! For the early car, you just undo the hose clamps from the engine bay, then get under the dash and take the front off the heater box... and change em' out. Back in high school, mine would pop a leak anytime I missed a shift. I would take it out and try and solder the hold.... but it was like swiss cheese. You plug one hole, and water just runs out somewhere else! I finally purchased a new one and haven't looked back. The thought of changine one on a fox body makes me shiver! There's an all day job... unless you do like I did on the ole' 225k mile Pontiac Parisienne beater car. I just cut a hole in the heater box under the hood and changed it! I then re-installed the cut off part with a couple screws that were already there to hold it in place, and siliconed the cracks! Good Luck! ------------------
Mike Burch
66 mustang real street
302 4-speed 289 heads
10.63 @ 129.3
http://www.geocities.com/carbedstangs/cmml_mburch.html
http://www.fortunecity.com/silverstone/healey/367
http://www.mustangworks.com/cgi-bin/moi-display.cgi?220
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bluestreek
Gearhead Posts: 1460
From: Athens,GA
Registered: Jul 2001
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posted 03-17-2003 11:31 AM
Thanks for the tips. I guess I'll pull the passenger seat out of the way and get busy when I have the time.Dan
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Buster
Gearhead Posts: 1238
From: Orlando
Registered: May 2002
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posted 03-17-2003 11:39 AM
Well, the Fox body stangs are very easy to do. I have done them as fast as 45 minutes. You just need to know the tricks....However, I have never done one on an early model stang.
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Ryan Wilke
Gearhead Posts: 1700
From: Stanton, Michigan 49707
Registered: Oct 2000
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posted 03-17-2003 12:31 PM
quote:
Originally posted by Buster:
Well, the Fox body stangs are very easy to do. I have done them as fast as 45 minutes. You just need to know the tricks....
I doubt the Fox-body car you did in 45 minutes had A/C...!
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Buster
Gearhead Posts: 1238
From: Orlando
Registered: May 2002
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posted 03-17-2003 09:18 PM
quote:
Originally posted by Ryan Wilke:
I doubt the Fox-body car you did in 45 minutes had A/C...!
Yes I did I don't think I've done a stang heater core without A/C.... It really doesn't make a difference anyway...the case is the same with or without A/C. However, I have installed lots of add on A/C systems on fox body stangs. two of us would split the job, I would do the inside and my friend Rick would do under the hood. Between the two of us, it would take about 45 minutes to do the whole job from start to finish. I can't tell you how many I have done...lots though. and I'm not the fastest either... I have seen Rick do the heater core in 35 minutes. [This message has been edited by Buster (edited 03-17-2003).]
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bluestreek
Gearhead Posts: 1460
From: Athens,GA
Registered: Jul 2001
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posted 03-19-2003 10:12 AM
Another question. Can the two heaterhose fittings be capped off altogether, or should I use a hose loop?Thanks
DanH ------------------
1966 Mustang Coupe: Custom glass hood and BIG scoop sits atop a 289 stroked to 331 c.i., Steel crank and girdle, 5.4 H-beams, Forged slugs, TFS alum. heads, ported Stealth 8020 intake, CompCams Xtreme Solid Roller, Holley 750 HP, long tubes, 4speed, 9" 3.50 posi.
e.t. 12.50 @ 112 mph
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Ryan Wilke
Gearhead Posts: 1700
From: Stanton, Michigan 49707
Registered: Oct 2000
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posted 03-19-2003 11:27 AM
I pulled the hose adapters out & capped mine without any bad effects........
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grandestang
Gearhead Posts: 269
From: Lake Bluff, Illinois USA
Registered: Jan 2003
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posted 03-19-2003 01:53 PM
You should absolutely do the bypass unless you really need heat. I had the same problem, lived with the bypass- (which was incredibly simple and effective)- but then when it got cold this winter I decided to have the heater core fixed. Turns out I spent close to $500 replacing the thing a new core only costs 40$!!!! And I am told I got a deal on it and could have easily paid closer to $800.  The guy who did it said it was a real b*tch, probably one of the toughest heater repairs he has done. So yeah, do what these guys said and live with the bypass for awhile at least until you save up the cash or attempt to fix it yourself- which would be a real pain in the A**!------------------
1970 Grande
H code 351W FMX
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MrXerox
Gearhead Posts: 332
From: Oklahoma City, Oklahoma
Registered: Nov 2000
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posted 03-19-2003 04:07 PM
Its not fun, but it is sure not $500-$800 worth of hell either Whoever did the job for you took you for a ride! A few hours work for $500+ Where do I sign up for that job?
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grandestang
Gearhead Posts: 269
From: Lake Bluff, Illinois USA
Registered: Jan 2003
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posted 03-20-2003 01:34 PM
Mr. Xerox- are you sure? I really dont think it is only a few hours of work considering the whole dash has to come out. (and go back in) I know it was expensive, but I dont think I was taken. It takes an awful long time to do all that- especially since it has air conditioning. Just keeping that refrigerant contained is an expensive and time consuming job. Labor isnt cheap! I dont know if you could get someone to do it for much cheaper- unless you had an inside deal worked out. I think I paid what I should have- cause there was no way I could've done it myself. And as mentioned above I didnt ever say i paid 500 or even 800! I said nearly 500- $475 to be exact. i would be surprized if you could get that much better of a price. I think your underestimating the work involved. ------------------
1970 Grande
H code 351W FMX [This message has been edited by grandestang (edited 03-20-2003).] [This message has been edited by grandestang (edited 03-20-2003).]
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bluestreek
Gearhead Posts: 1460
From: Athens,GA
Registered: Jul 2001
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posted 03-20-2003 06:34 PM
No AC in this car. I remember puttin one in a Falcon once and I don't remember it being too awfully hard, but we'll see.Thanks guys!
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