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Author
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Topic: polishing beams on connecting rods......
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XR7
Gearhead Posts: 129
From: north Idaho
Registered: Mar 2003
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posted 03-12-2003 10:30 PM
  
Is it worth doing? Does it reduce that much stress? If you do this to a stock rod can you run them polished or do you have to shotpeen them? I have heard of guys glass beading them after also although one engine builder said that wouldn't help one bit. I am considering doing this on my FE rods and using ARP2000 bolts, reconditioning and balancing them ect. I just can't find anyone that can do it (shot peen) locally and hear it is very expensive. Not that many options for aftermarket FE rods that are affordable.
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SundanceKid
Gearhead Posts: 1260
From: UT
Registered: Feb 2001
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posted 03-13-2003 12:46 AM
I have "heard" that is is worthless without shotpeening them. When you polish the beams it would stop stress risers and that does help on anything metal that involves stress. Why would rods be any differant?
I have polished the stock rods on every motor I have built and have never had them shotpeened. I've never had a rod failure, so it hasn't hurt anything by doing it so far.
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Mario428
Journeyman Posts: 76
From: Charlottetown, PEI, Canada
Registered: Nov 2001
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posted 03-13-2003 06:57 AM
Try George Anderson at http://gessford.com/cobraparts/enter.htm
He polished and shotpeened my rods, does nice work. Does a lot of FE stuff.
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n2oMike
Gearhead Posts: 2419
From: Spencer, WV
Registered: Jan 2001
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posted 03-13-2003 10:11 AM
If you're going to polish the beams, you've got to be careful not to remove too much metal. You can actually end up weakening the rods.For the record... The 289 rods in mustang's 302 did NOT have their beams polished. They had good machine work, ARP Pro-Series bolts, and were shot peened.... but that's it. The pistons were press-fit, not bushed, as I feel this takes too much metal out of the small ends of the stock rods. Good Luck! ------------------
Mike Burch
66 mustang real street
302 4-speed 289 heads
10.63 @ 129.3
http://www.geocities.com/carbedstangs/cmml_mburch.html
http://www.fortunecity.com/silverstone/healey/367
http://www.mustangworks.com/cgi-bin/moi-display.cgi?220
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Moneymaker
Administrator Posts: 25883
From: Lyons, IL, USA
Registered: May 99
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posted 03-13-2003 10:36 AM
Polishing stock SBF Ford rods gains nothing.
Not enough mass to make a difference.
Like Mike suggests, "good" precision machining, good bolts, and shot peening does the trick.As far as bushing the small ends, I dissagree.
For over 30 years I have been bushing the small ends of stock SBF rods for floating pins. Both 5/16 and 3/8 Hipo, Boss, and 302HD rods. I have never had a pin end related failure! Broke plenty of rods, but never on the small end. 
There is plenty of material and you can see a significant RPM response improvment with full floating pins on a "race" engine. This translates into a quicker ET.
Under 6k RPM I wouldn't bother. ------------------
Alex Denysenko
Co-Administrator and Moderator NHRA/IHRA/SRA member and licensed Superstock driver
MCA member# 53321
NHRA and IHRA SS/LA National Record Holder '00,'01,'02,&'03
Fleet of FoMoCo products including 88 ASC McLaren Mustang #28
Professional Manwhore
The Barry of BarrysGrrl Quote #1: "I never met a magazine mechanic I liked."
Quote #2: "Make sure brain is in gear before engaging mouth!"
Quote #3: "If you can't run with the big dogs, stay on the porch!"
www.moneymakerracing.com
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Rustang1
Gearhead Posts: 110
From:
Registered: Nov 2000
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posted 03-13-2003 04:49 PM
One option to the floating pin deal is running them "steel on steel" honing the rod bore out for a clearance with the wrist pin and then drilling small oil hole at or near the top of the bore.
As for the shot-peening, I have a copy of some engineering paper from Chevy that shows how much stronger their bow tie rods were after shot-peening. It's something on the order of 30%! It's kind of a cool paper. I can scan it and email a copy of it if you wish. Also, don't use glass beads, as they wouldn't "compress" the surface like the steel shot would. ------------------
1968 Mustang,Clevor,C4
1969 Torino 351C 4spd
1978 F150 460 C6
1978 F150 351W C6
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Moneymaker
Administrator Posts: 25883
From: Lyons, IL, USA
Registered: May 99
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posted 03-13-2003 06:29 PM
quote:
Originally posted by Rustang1:
One option to the floating pin deal is running them "steel on steel" honing the rod bore out for a clearance with the wrist pin and then drilling small oil hole at or near the top of the bore.
Done that many times also. The little Ford rods are better than you think.
Big bonus is the light weight.
------------------
Alex Denysenko
Co-Administrator and Moderator NHRA/IHRA/SRA member and licensed Superstock driver
MCA member# 53321
NHRA and IHRA SS/LA National Record Holder '00,'01,'02,&'03
Fleet of FoMoCo products including 88 ASC McLaren Mustang #28
Professional Manwhore
The Barry of BarrysGrrl Quote #1: "I never met a magazine mechanic I liked."
Quote #2: "Make sure brain is in gear before engaging mouth!"
Quote #3: "If you can't run with the big dogs, stay on the porch!"
www.moneymakerracing.com
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Stephen & Horace Johnson
Gearhead Posts: 184
From: Gadsden, AL
Registered: Jul 2002
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posted 03-14-2003 01:01 PM
XR7They work for the ole Lemans rods.. we used to do them to our rods.. but now we run the ole Crower.. gosh expensive.. The ole Lemans rods are HEAVY!!! but they can be lightened but.. the motor will have be torn down and check after about 35-40 runs to check for cracks.. We have some rods for the 427s if you need any.. [email protected] ------------------
Stephen Johnson #2162
Horace Johnson #2167
NHRA-IHRA SS/D 427 Ford Fairlane (Ex-Van Cleve)
1985 Mustang FFW True Street 11.86 @115mph (N/A)
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XR7
Gearhead Posts: 129
From: north Idaho
Registered: Mar 2003
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posted 03-14-2003 07:23 PM
Thanks for the replies and advice! I like this forum, lots of experience in drag racing and engine building. I will try to find someone in the northwest for the shotpeening as George at Gessford won't do it unless he polishes the rods and I allready did! He quoted 412 labor plus the bolts and bushings for your info.
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