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Author Topic:   U-joints
afret
Gearhead

Posts: 144
From: Lancaster, CA
Registered: Feb 2003

posted 03-05-2003 12:43 AM     Click Here to See the Profile for afret   Click Here to Email afret     Edit/Delete Message   Reply w/Quote
What u-joints are most of you guys using? Are the Lakewood solid joints the way to go? Are there better u-bolts to hold the u-joint to the rear yoke or are the stock ones ok? Thanks again.

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jsracingbbf
Gearhead

Posts: 2160
From: Batesville,MS. , U.S.A.
Registered: Mar 2002

posted 03-05-2003 01:15 AM     Click Here to See the Profile for jsracingbbf   Click Here to Email jsracingbbf     Edit/Delete Message   Reply w/Quote
I think mine are those Moroso race versions. It came with my driveshaft. here is a link to their site. Great people, great service and NO BS, they sell you what you need, not a PRO MOD set up. http://www.pstds.com/

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Jerry
69 Mustang Pro ET Drag
70 Mustang retired former footbrake car
" If Bracket Racing was EZ everyone would be doing it!"

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jsracingbbf
Gearhead

Posts: 2160
From: Batesville,MS. , U.S.A.
Registered: Mar 2002

posted 03-05-2003 01:17 AM     Click Here to See the Profile for jsracingbbf   Click Here to Email jsracingbbf     Edit/Delete Message   Reply w/Quote
Correction the ones I have are Spicer series. They are listed on the driveshaft site.
JS

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Just Strokin
Gearhead

Posts: 754
From: Tuscaloosa, Alabama
Registered: Dec 2001

posted 03-05-2003 07:36 AM     Click Here to See the Profile for Just Strokin   Click Here to Email Just Strokin     Edit/Delete Message   Reply w/Quote
A very interesting note at the Mark Williams site about non-greasable over-the-counter u-joints.....They say they are weaker than the gresable over-the-counter u-joints...

http://emporium.markwilliams.com/prodinfo.asp?prodid=1210

http://emporium.markwilliams.com/Catlist.asp

------------------
Larry

No fast Fords at this time but one fine cruising 96 F350 CC DRW Power Strokin diesel.
And one rusty 64 Fairlane nick-named the Rust Bucket....And sometimes called the Money Pit...

The sounds of a brain dropping into gear.....
"Buzzzzzz.......Click"

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Ryan Wilke
Gearhead

Posts: 1700
From: Stanton, Michigan 49707
Registered: Oct 2000

posted 03-05-2003 08:15 AM     Click Here to See the Profile for Ryan Wilke   Click Here to Email Ryan Wilke     Edit/Delete Message   Reply w/Quote
I don't recall who made it, but I remember buying a U-joint with the grease zert located in the center of a bearing cap rather than in the cross body! As I recall, it went behind a manual trans & 's still going without incident...

Another thought about U-joints & grease zerts,,,, I recall someone once saying that joints with a zert in the cross body should be installed in a certain position in relation to the drive yoke - in an effort to reduce the potential for breakage.....

Anyone else hear/know anything like that????

Ryan

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Hans olsson
Gearhead

Posts: 385
From: Sweden
Registered: Apr 2000

posted 03-05-2003 08:51 AM     Click Here to See the Profile for Hans olsson   Click Here to Email Hans olsson     Edit/Delete Message   Reply w/Quote
Mine are AEC greaseable with the zert installed on the pressure side of the drive yoke,to avoid streching the joint at the grease channel.It works for me.
Hans

------------------

  • 71 Mach1 351c
  • E/SA 11.89-110 mph
  • F/SA 11.76-111 mph

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cobravenom71
Gearhead

Posts: 831
From: Kissimee, Fl USA
Registered: Aug 2002

posted 03-05-2003 08:55 AM     Click Here to See the Profile for cobravenom71   Click Here to Email cobravenom71     Edit/Delete Message   Reply w/Quote
I have heard from several racers (including Denny from 'Denny's Driveshaft' in Buffalo, NY) that the U-Joints with the grease-zerks are somewhat weaker than the solid-body ones. He has always recommended to me to use the solid-body 'Spicer' brand, and I have never had a problem. Of course, I don't drag-race the car, so I'm not putting them under the same stress that someone else might.

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afret
Gearhead

Posts: 144
From: Lancaster, CA
Registered: Feb 2003

posted 03-05-2003 10:41 AM     Click Here to See the Profile for afret   Click Here to Email afret     Edit/Delete Message   Reply w/Quote
Thanks for everyones input. The Lakewood joint is very similar to the MW one. It is actually a solid joint, not a joint with the grease fitting missing with a grease channel still present in the body.

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Moneymaker
Administrator

Posts: 21725
From: Lyons, IL, USA
Registered: May 99

posted 03-05-2003 10:49 AM     Click Here to See the Profile for Moneymaker   Click Here to Email Moneymaker     Edit/Delete Message   Reply w/Quote
Both the Spicer or Alloy performance u-joints are excellent!
Lakewood and Moroso do not make u-joints, they repackage them.

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Alex Denysenko
Co-Administrator and Moderator

NHRA/IHRA/SRA member and licensed Superstock driver
MCA member# 53321
NHRA and IHRA SS/LA National Record Holder '00,'01,'02,&'03
Fleet of FoMoCo products including 88 ASC McLaren Mustang #28
Professional Manwhore
The Barry of BarrysGrrl

Quote #1: "I never met a magazine mechanic I liked."
Quote #2: "Make sure brain is in gear before engaging mouth!"
Quote #3: "If you can't run with the big dogs, stay on the porch!"
www.moneymakerracing.com

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afret
Gearhead

Posts: 144
From: Lancaster, CA
Registered: Feb 2003

posted 03-05-2003 10:58 AM     Click Here to See the Profile for afret   Click Here to Email afret     Edit/Delete Message   Reply w/Quote
So Alex, my next question is who makes the Lakewood joint? Is it Spicer? What do you think of the Moroso u-joint girdle? Is it better than the stock u-bolt?

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Moneymaker
Administrator

Posts: 21725
From: Lyons, IL, USA
Registered: May 99

posted 03-05-2003 11:02 AM     Click Here to See the Profile for Moneymaker   Click Here to Email Moneymaker     Edit/Delete Message   Reply w/Quote
Borg Warner used to make most of the Lakewood joints. I'm not sure now as I have not looked at any in a while. They are over priced. The 1310 to 1330 conversion joint was made by Spicer for Lakewood.
We have used the Moroso u-joint girdles for over 25 years. The same pair is on MM for over 20 years now.

------------------
Alex Denysenko
Co-Administrator and Moderator

NHRA/IHRA/SRA member and licensed Superstock driver
MCA member# 53321
NHRA and IHRA SS/LA National Record Holder '00,'01,'02,&'03
Fleet of FoMoCo products including 88 ASC McLaren Mustang #28
Professional Manwhore
The Barry of BarrysGrrl

Quote #1: "I never met a magazine mechanic I liked."
Quote #2: "Make sure brain is in gear before engaging mouth!"
Quote #3: "If you can't run with the big dogs, stay on the porch!"
www.moneymakerracing.com

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Ryan Wilke
Gearhead

Posts: 1700
From: Stanton, Michigan 49707
Registered: Oct 2000

posted 03-05-2003 12:38 PM     Click Here to See the Profile for Ryan Wilke   Click Here to Email Ryan Wilke     Edit/Delete Message   Reply w/Quote
quote:
Originally posted by Hans olsson:
Mine are AEC greaseable with the zert installed on the pressure side of the drive yoke,to avoid streching the joint at the grease channel.It works for me.
Hans

Hans,
I think that sounds like what I recall about 'proper positioning'....

So,,, just how do you determine what the "pressure side of the drive (trans) yoke" is?

Ryan

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Hans olsson
Gearhead

Posts: 385
From: Sweden
Registered: Apr 2000

posted 03-05-2003 01:19 PM     Click Here to See the Profile for Hans olsson   Click Here to Email Hans olsson     Edit/Delete Message   Reply w/Quote
The grease fitting should be ahead of the trans yokes ear. If you think about it, on one side the yoke pushes,on the other it pulls on the joint.If you line up the drive yoke vertical the grease fitting should be on the upper drivers side.

Hans

------------------

  • 71 Mach1 351c
  • E/SA 11.89-110 mph
  • F/SA 11.76-111 mph

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