Author
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Topic: Cylinder bore question?
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thumpin cat Gearhead Posts: 260 From: Registered: Mar 2002
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posted 03-01-2003 03:23 PM
If my 69 351w is standard bore and the cylinder walls seem ok, do i still have to bore the cylinders over?please let me know thanks a lot
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D&S Induction Systems Gearhead Posts: 118 From: Columbia Heights Mn U.S.A. Registered: Feb 2003
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posted 03-01-2003 04:47 PM
I'd not only not bore it out, I'd use the old gaskets...
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CAPTAIN CLAMHEAD Journeyman Posts: 50 From: DETROIT MI Registered: Feb 2003
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posted 03-02-2003 03:15 AM
YOU SHOULD ALWAYS BORE YOUR CYLINDERS ROUND.------------------ IF I DON'T KNOW WHAT'S WRONG WITH IT NOBODY DOES. GIVE ME A TEST, I'M SIMPLY THE BEST!
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68F100 Gearhead Posts: 2062 From: Fort Madison, Iowa USA - United We Stand Registered: Oct 99
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posted 03-02-2003 04:30 AM
OK...maybe I'm overly sensitive, but there is a difference in being a smartass and being a dumbass. Personally, I'm sick of hearing a$$holes spout off their bull**** advice. I'm very far from being an expert on anything automotive, but I can smell bull**** a mile away. thumpin cat - someone will give you some real advice soon. Sorry I couldn't be of any help.
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bluestreek Gearhead Posts: 1289 From: Athens,GA Registered: Jul 2001
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posted 03-02-2003 09:39 AM
A reputable engine machine shop should be able to tell you if it's OK to rehone the block or if it needs boring. Either way, get it done by a professional. A poor hone job won't last long.------------------ 1966 Mustang Coupe: Custom glass hood and BIG scoop sits atop a 289 stroked to 331 c.i., Steel crank and girdle, 5.4 H-beams, Forged slugs, ported TFS alum. heads, ported Stealth 8020 intake, CompCams Xtreme Solid Roller, Holley 750 HP, long tubes, 4speed, 9" 3.50 posi, BFG Drag radials..
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kid vishus Gearhead Posts: 4538 From: middle of NC Registered: Oct 2000
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posted 03-02-2003 09:53 AM
quote: Originally posted by CAPTAIN CLAMHEAD: YOU SHOULD ALWAYS BORE YOUR CYLINDERS ROUND.
Yeah, those triangular cylinders are tuff to find rings for.
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Moneymaker Administrator Posts: 19704 From: Lyons, IL, USA Registered: May 99
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posted 03-02-2003 10:42 AM
LOL ------------------ Alex Denysenko Co-Administrator and Moderator NHRA/IHRA/SRA member and licensed Superstock driver MCA member# 53321 NHRA and IHRA SS/LA National Record Holder '00,'01,'02,&'03 Fleet of FoMoCo products including 88 ASC McLaren Mustang #28 Professional Manwhore The Barry of BarrysGrrl Quote #1: "I never met a magazine mechanic I liked." Quote #2: "Make sure brain is in gear before engaging mouth!" Quote #3: "If you can't run with the big dogs, stay on the porch!" www.moneymakerracing.com
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cpmaverick Moderator Posts: 1564 From: Auburn, AL. Registered: Jan 2000
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posted 03-02-2003 12:44 PM
Keep 'em standard if you can. Lots of so-called 'performance experts' talk about 'punching 30 over' but you are not really gaining anything, just a couple CI. A standard block will still be good for another rebuild later in life. ------------------ -Charlie Ping 1970 Maverick Grabber [email protected] with AC and overdrive. http://www.maverickgrabber.com
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Moneymaker Administrator Posts: 19704 From: Lyons, IL, USA Registered: May 99
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posted 03-02-2003 12:59 PM
quote: Originally posted by cpmaverick: Keep 'em standard if you can. Lots of so-called 'performance experts' talk about 'punching 30 over' but you are not really gaining anything, just a couple CI. A standard block will still be good for another rebuild later in life.
Charlie you are 100% absolutly WRONG buddy! It has nothing to do with the increase in displacment. That's just a bonus. It's about making the bores round and straight. Making certain they are exactly 90 degrees perpendicular to the centerline of the crankshaft and having the smoothest possible finish on the walls. OEM factory machining is so bad and the tolerances are so far off that a standard bore OEM block will probably gain 20 HP with just a good hone job and a new set of rings. The factories just don't spend the money. Ever wonder why Ferrari's were always so fast with only 2.5 liters in the 60's?
------------------ Alex Denysenko Co-Administrator and Moderator NHRA/IHRA/SRA member and licensed Superstock driver MCA member# 53321 NHRA and IHRA SS/LA National Record Holder '00,'01,'02,&'03 Fleet of FoMoCo products including 88 ASC McLaren Mustang #28 Professional Manwhore The Barry of BarrysGrrl Quote #1: "I never met a magazine mechanic I liked." Quote #2: "Make sure brain is in gear before engaging mouth!" Quote #3: "If you can't run with the big dogs, stay on the porch!" www.moneymakerracing.com
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D&S Induction Systems Gearhead Posts: 118 From: Columbia Heights Mn U.S.A. Registered: Feb 2003
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posted 03-02-2003 02:38 PM
quote: Originally posted by Moneymaker: Charlie you are 100% absolutly WRONG buddy! It has nothing to do with the increase in displacment. That's just a bonus. It's about making the bores round and straight. Making certain they are exactly 90 degrees perpendicular to the centerline of the crankshaft and having the smoothest possible finish on the walls. OEM factory machining is so bad and the tolerances are so far off that a standard bore OEM block will probably gain 20 HP with just a good hone job and a new set of rings. The factories just don't spend the money. Ever wonder why Ferrari's were always so fast with only 2.5 liters in the 60's?
Yes, Moneymaker is 100% correct here! You wouldn't beleive how BAD OEM tolerances are. Sorry if I pissed anyone off here. I thought this was another joke thread. YES, thumpin cat. If you are going to rebuild you're engine you should have it bored and honed out. And if you realy want to do a good job, also have the block decked and the mains align-honed. I've said it before and I'll say it agen. All that performance stuff means crap with out good machine work.
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