D&S INDUCTION SYSTEMS

We would first like to thank you for choosing D&S Induction. The following information is our recommended start up and break in procedure on you��re new engine. Following these steps will ensure you��re engine will be broke in correctly.

STEP 1
Do a complete fluid check. Make sure the oil is in the the engine, oil filter is installed and radiator is topped with coolant. Remember, after you start the engine for the first time the coolant will be pumped into the block. So be sure and have extra coolant on hand, and add as needed. Also, remember to check all fastener. (ie. hose clamps)

STEP 2
If installed, remove the distributor, and prime the oiling system. Install distributor.

Now you are ready to start you��re engine for the first time. (we recommend you have an oil pressure gauge and engine temperature gauge installed at this point.)

Check list:
a) engine has oil
b) engine has coolant
c) all fastener are tight
d) extra coolant is on hand
e) distributor is installed
f) fuel is in tank

STEP 3
Now check you��re ignition system. Do this quick and simple test. Pull the coil wire off of the distributor. Install a spark plug or spark tester in the end of the wire. Ground the spark plug or tester to the (ie. manifold, block) Keeping you��re hands free, have someone turn the engine over for aprox. 1-2 seconds. Since you are testing directly off the ignition coil this will be enough time to see if you��re ignition system is working. If it does work to you��re satisfaction, reinstall the coil wire back on the distributor and you��re test is now complete.

STEP 4
Every thing should now be ready to go. If you have an electric fuel pump, turn it on, and manually move the throttle plate back and fourth, while looking to see if fuel is squirting out of the accelerator pump nozzles. If you have a mechanical fuel pump, you will need to provide fuel to the engine until the fuel can be pumped to the carburetor. This can be done with a small gas can, coffee can, or any thing that can safely hold gasoline. (remember you don��t need allot)

Also, try and set the distributor between 0 and 15 degrees BTDC. Remember to keep the distributor loose enough to turn while the engine is running

STEP 5
Check list:
a) ignition is in working order
b) fuel is in carburetor (electric pump) some fuel was poured down into carburetor (mechanical pump)
c) timing is set close to 0-15 BTDC

OK! IT��S TIME...FIRE IT UP!

If it does not start...DON��T PANIC...ASK YOU��RE SELF THESE THINGS.

a) AIR......................................Is something preventing air from entering the engine?
b) FUEL...................................Is there fuel? Or is there too much fuel?
c) SPARK.................................Is the ignition system working?
d) COMPRESSION..................Are all of the spark plugs in?

Also Check...

a) Make sure you��re firing order is correct
b) Pull cap off of distributor and crank engine. Make sure distributor is turning.
c) Make sure you��re timing is NOT too far off. This is how it��s done...
1) Disconnect coil wire to distributor.
2) Pull #1 spark plug out.
3) Put you��re finger in #1 spark plug hole.
4) Use a remote starter or have a friend crank the the engine until you feel a heavy push on
you��re finger. (this is the compression stroke) As soon as you feel this STOP CRANKING!
(DO NOT STICK YOU��RE FINGER WAY DOWN INTO THE SPARK PLUG HOLE. IT
COULD COME IN CONTACT WITH THE PISTON. JUST SIMPLY COVER IT UP.)
5) Manually crank the engine until you see ��0�� on the harmonic balance and the timing pointer
line up. (this is now top dead center compression stroke)
6) Now remove the distributor cap and look to see ware the rotor is pointed. The rotor should be
pointed toward the #1 tremanal on the disrtibuter cap. If it is not, then make the necessary
adjustments so it is.
Another method of checking for Top Dead Center:
1) Disconnect coil wire to distributor.
2) Remove the valve cover on the bank number 1 cylinder is located.
3) Crank the engine and watch the # 1 cylinder��s rocker arms. When both springs are completely
uncompressed this will be close to Top Dead Center.
5) Manually crank the engine until you see ��0�� on the harmonic balance and the timing pointer
line up. (this is now top dead center compression stroke)
6) Now remove the distributor cap and look to see ware the rotor is pointed. The rotor should be
pointed toward the #1 tremanal on the disrtibuter cap. If it is not, then make the necessary
adjustment so it is.

AFTER THE ENGINE HAS STARTED
STEP 6
a) Be sure to check the oil pressure gauge to see if the engine is getting oil pressure.
b) Constantly monitor the the engine temperature gauge.
c) Add coolant as necessary.
d) This is also a good time to check and set timing, and tune carburetor. You may need to do this to
get the engine to idle.
e) Once the engine had reached operating temperature (190-210 degrees) and has maintained it for at least 3 minutes, shut it off. You should now look for these things.
(NOTE: Do NOT let the engine reach 220 degrees and above.)
1) Any leaks: (ie. oil, coolant, transmition fluid)
2) Is the upper radiator hose hot? (if it is, this will indicate you��re thermostat is working correctly.)
3) Does the upper radiator hose have pressure in it? (If it does, this will indicate you��re cooling
system holds pressure.
4) Check oil level.

STEP 7
��BREAK IN PROCEDURE��
Once you are satisfied that everything is in good working order, and there are no leaks, restart the engine. At this point, you can take this time to do some pre-tuning. This is basicly tuning the engine well enough to go the the first test drive. This could consist of jets, timing, and carburetor tuning.

Once the engine idles down, is responsive to throttle movement and revs-up well, it is now time to break in the cam. (NOTE: Do NOT over rev the engine just yet. You��re engine is still in the pre-break in stage. Try and keep the RPM��S below 3500)

STEP 8 ��CAM BREAK IN��
Simply run the engine at 2000-2500 RPM��S for 20 minutes. After this point, tuirn the engine OFF and change the oil and oil filter!!

STEP 9 ��BREAK IN PEIORD��
You are now ready for the first test drive. Start off by running the engine at lower RPM��S. Drive it for 20 minutes like you would a ��normal car��. Then very the engine speed. Example: If you��re engines ��red line�� is 7000 RPM��S, run it from idle to 5500-6000 RPM��S. After you have 50 to 75 miles on the engine, an occatinal 7000 RPM buirst won��t huirt. Do this for 300 to 500 miles.

In this 300 to 500 mile ��break in period��, you��re engine will, run better and gain power while the piston rings break in. Just remember not to beat on it too much in this stage.

Contunue to tune you��re engine as you go. You may want to try carburetor adjustments, distributer spring adjustments, carburetor sapcers, rocker arm adjustments, etc...
(NOTE: Do NOT use nitrous oxide in the break in peiord)

STEP 10
After you have put you��re first 300 to 500 miles on the engine, be shure to change the oil!. At this point is is now safe to run you��re engine at and up to the engines ��redline��. The engines piston rings and bearings should be completly broke in at this point. It is also now ok to run our recomended amount of nitrous oxide on you��re engine.

PS: This is the un-proof read version. Sorry for any errors.

Good for camshaft sales, though...

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'70 Mustang Mach 1 - '72 Mustang Sprint - '94 F-150

This is all well and good for a stock street engine I guess, or if you are a novice.
Maybe I'm just jaded as I don't let my customers start anything I build and I usually don't have any issues when I fire up a fresh piece..

Good advice overall nevertheless.

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Alex Denysenko
Co-Administrator and Moderator

NHRA/IHRA/SRA member and licensed Superstock driver
MCA member# 53321
NHRA and IHRA SS/LA National Record Holder '00,'01,'02,&'03
Fleet of FoMoCo products including 88 ASC McLaren Mustang #28
Professional Manwhore
The Barry of BarrysGrrl

-- Getting the 300-500 miles recommended in STEPS 9 & 10 is fine for a STREET-DRIVEN car. But I'd guess your recommendations would be different for a car/engine that is going to be operated "1/4 mile at a time"......

I noticed you didn't mention anything about checking the torque on the heads, intake and exhaust manifold/headers.... (unless that is a part of the STEP 9: "Continue tuning,,etc.")

-- Have folks quit doing that since we typically are using better quality gaskets nowadays?

I agree the cam should be broke in as soon an possable but before it is we recomend a complete systems check. If you don't do this kind of thing often like alot of you do, important stemps can be overlooked resulting in expensive mistakes.

A freind buirned up a brand new 396 chev because he forgot to continue to add coolant. He just filled it up and took off down the street!!

Yes, this print out we give with our street street/strip and weekend cruser type engines.

We send a differnt one with racing engines and engines w/o a cooling system. Some of the stuff you read is in the racing version, but the break in and a few other things are differnt.

Thanks agen for the feed back.

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'70 Mustang Mach 1 - '72 Mustang Sprint - '94 F-150

quote:

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Originally posted by 289u4ea:
I also do not want to be critical, but a note of caution. In step 4: "If you have a mechanical fuel pump, you will need to provide fuel to the engine until the fuel can be pumped to the carburetor. This can be done with a small gas can, coffee can, or any thing that can safely hold gasoline."
I had a friend that was pouring gas into a carb to get the car started. When it back-fired the gas can exploded sending fuel and flames everywhere. He received massive 1st and 2nd degree burns on his face and arms then had to spent along time in the hospital to recover.
There has to be a better way to prime a carb without pouring in raw fuel!
I have used a spray bottle set on squirt or mist without problem, but I won't pour!!

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We start motors with the timing light hooked up and get that set right away, at least close. No shutting off with solid lifters, nope!

Rollers don't matter.

quote:

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Originally posted by mach72:
I always prefer to change the oil after the the initial cam "break-in" (before that first test drive), then again at 500 miles. Then every 3000-4000 miles. The cam-lube that was applied when the cam and lifters were installed is not intended to stay in the engine long-term. I believe that it can stop up the oil filter. What do you guys think about about the old theory "break it in like it will be used". Tom

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"STEP 8 ��CAM BREAK IN��
Simply run the engine at 2000-2500 RPM��S for 20 minutes. After this point, tuirn the engine OFF and change the oil and oil filter!!"

After following your cam manufacturer's break-in procedure, change oil and filter. Then drive it 'like a regular car' for the first 500 miles, followed by another oil and filter change. 1000 miles later, another oil and filter change. 2500-3000 mile service intervals from then on

Some call it old school, but I still use 30W non detergent motor oil for inital start-up and camshaft break-in. Petroleum motor oil (NOT synthetic) for the first 3000 street miles, then fill the crankcase with the good stuff

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1965 GT coupe, 333ci aluminum headed/solid cammed stroker, four speed, 3.70:1 9"

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1965 GT coupe, 333ci aluminum headed/solid cammed stroker, four speed, 3.70:1 9"

quote:

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Originally posted by D&S Induction Systems:
....We also have a different one for all out racing engines (or no cooling system engines)....

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D&S:
If you don't mind, I'd be interested in seeing your racing engine printout....