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Author
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Topic: Drivelines
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jsracingbbf
Gearhead Posts: 2160
From: Batesville,MS. , U.S.A.
Registered: Mar 2002
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posted 02-02-2003 09:25 PM
   
I know we've discussed this b4 BUT it's down to the nitty gritty now. Time to order a shaft. AND I don't want to get the shaft. I see three options:
1. Chrome Moly
2. Aluminum
3. Carbon fiber
I sent an email to these folks shafts
they are supposed to reply with some advice, no doubt recommending me buy the HI $$$ piece 
Any Opinions? ------------------
Jerry
69 Mustang Pro ET Drag
70 Mustang retired former footbrake car
"This is FORD Country! On a Quiet night you can hear a Chevy Rust"
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V8 Thumper
Gearhead Posts: 4044
From: Orange, Ca. United States of America
Registered: Dec 2001
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posted 02-02-2003 09:32 PM
Hey Jerry, I don't know near enough about the topic to respond, but you wouldn't have any 4bbl dual plane manifolds sitting around collecting dust, would you? I've got a 'wanted' ad in classifieds in case you might...------------------
1965 GT coupe, 333ci aluminum headed/solid cammed stroker, four speed, 3.70:1 9" All Blue Oval, no blue bottle
http://mustangsandmore.50megs.com/V8Thumper.html
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kid vishus
Gearhead Posts: 5248
From: middle of NC
Registered: Oct 2000
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posted 02-02-2003 09:35 PM
If I had unlimited funds, I would buy a carbon fiber shaft.  But since I dont have that much money,  when I broke my steel shaft last year, I replaced it with an aluminum shaft.  It is a real nice piece, just not as nice or lightweight as a carbon fiber shaft.Too bad Alex is out of town, he recommended the company I got mine from.
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zepheracer
Journeyman Posts: 10
From: Butte, Mt.
Registered: Jan 2003
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posted 02-02-2003 09:53 PM
Just depends on how much you want to spend.
A 2-3/4 inch, .085 wall mild seel shaft with
1350 series yokes would be a stout driveline.
There would be a weight reduction with the others,but how much performance you would gain depends on what your running.
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jsracingbbf
Gearhead Posts: 2160
From: Batesville,MS. , U.S.A.
Registered: Mar 2002
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posted 02-02-2003 10:04 PM
quote:
Originally posted by kid vishus:
If I had unlimited funds, I would buy a carbon fiber shaft. But since I dont have that much money, when I broke my steel shaft last year, I replaced it with an aluminum shaft. It is a real nice piece, just not as nice or lightweight as a carbon fiber shaft.Too bad Alex is out of town, he recommended the company I got mine from.
KV, I ain't got unlimited funds! Did you see an ET drop from the shaft change? Chrome Moly is pretty light also. Also, Welcome to M & M zepheracer. I probably won't get a mild steel shaft since prices on Aluminum and Chrome Moly are within my budget. Either of those would be a step up from Mild steel.
Jerry
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zepheracer
Journeyman Posts: 10
From: Butte, Mt.
Registered: Jan 2003
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posted 02-02-2003 10:07 PM
Just curious, is this a streeter, bracket or
a S-SS car.
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jsracingbbf
Gearhead Posts: 2160
From: Batesville,MS. , U.S.A.
Registered: Mar 2002
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posted 02-02-2003 10:09 PM
quote:
Originally posted by V8 Thumper:
Hey Jerry, I don't know near enough about the topic to respond, but you wouldn't have any 4bbl dual plane manifolds sitting around collecting dust, would you? I've got a 'wanted' ad in classifieds in case you might...
v8,
No dual planes here. I have a tunnel ram, a victor and a spread bore iron. Of those 3 the only thing I would part with is the iron piece. I generally find one manifold and stick with that, not alot of extra stuff laying around to try out. Sorry, I'll keep a look out for one though.
Jerry
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clevelandstyle
Gearhead Posts: 800
From: Connersville, IN
Registered: Jul 2001
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posted 02-02-2003 10:16 PM
welcome, Zepheracer!
Check out Jerrys car. It's not your average daily driver.
http://mustangsandmore.50megs.com/jsracingbbf.html------------------
Ben
Grabber Green '70 Mach I 351C 4V
Robbin Egg Blue '79 Fairmont 351C 4V
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kid vishus
Gearhead Posts: 5248
From: middle of NC
Registered: Oct 2000
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posted 02-02-2003 10:17 PM
quote:
Originally posted by jsracingbbf:
KV, I ain't got unlimited funds! Did you see an ET drop from the shaft change? Chrome Moly is pretty light also.
I think it did help, but I wont swear to it. Since it over reved the motor so hard when the stock shaft broke, I had to change a couple of other things at that same time I replaced the shaft. It literally stretched the rods enough I lost valve to piston clearance and had to juggle rocker ratios just to get some halfway acceptable clearances.
OK, I just looked in my log book. At the start of the year using the steel shaft, it was getting alot of 60' times in the 1.36-1.37 range. Now it is consistantly in the 1.33-1.34 range. With some stiff sidewall slicks, I'm pretty sure it would go consistently in the 1.32's. So yeah, it did help. (FYI, my steel shaft was the stock driveshaft out of my 70, so it wasnt real light.)
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zepheracer
Journeyman Posts: 10
From: Butte, Mt.
Registered: Jan 2003
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posted 02-02-2003 10:45 PM
Your right Kid, Jerry's car isn't your average daily driver. C-Molly or aluminum should be light and plenty strong. The aluminum shaft will probably have a larger diameter tube which might cause a problem if driveline tunnel clearance tight. By the way
your stock driveline only has a .063 thick tube.
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steve'66
Gearhead Posts: 7226
From: Sonoma,CA,USA
Registered: Mar 2000
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posted 02-03-2003 12:18 AM
Jerry,Since you are one of us bracket racers, I'd run a big old heavy steel tube. Save your money for other goodies. Denny makes first class shafts for a fair price. Guaranteed not to break too. You might get a few hundreths off your et with a carbon fiber shaft, but unless you're "class" racing, is it worth the $/et ratio?  SteveW www.dennysdriveshaft.com
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Just Strokin
Gearhead Posts: 754
From: Tuscaloosa, Alabama
Registered: Dec 2001
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posted 02-03-2003 07:44 AM
Jerry,How much more does the aluminum cost over the chrome moly? I think with the torque and HP you are going to have with the BBF, you better go with chrome moly in a 3" or 3.25" tubing size with the 1350 series yokes. If you were a pro stock team that regularly changed out the clutches where you inspected the driveshaft after each run, then the aluminum might be okay. ------------------
Larry No fast Fords at this time but one fine cruising 96 F350 CC DRW Power Strokin diesel.
And one rusty 64 Fairlane nick-named the Rust Bucket....And sometimes called the Money Pit... The sounds of a brain dropping into gear.....
"Buzzzzzz.......Click" [This message has been edited by Just Strokin (edited 02-03-2003).]
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kid vishus
Gearhead Posts: 5248
From: middle of NC
Registered: Oct 2000
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posted 02-03-2003 08:10 AM
Steve, I picked up a couple of hundedths with an aluminum shaft. I would suspect a carbon fiber would be even more. I think for the price of todays good race aluminum shafts, that they are a wrothwhile investment over a steel shaft, even for a bracket racer. 'Cuz lord knows, we are all trying to go faster. But, the size of the shaft I bought did require the modification of my front safety loop.
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kid vishus
Gearhead Posts: 5248
From: middle of NC
Registered: Oct 2000
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posted 02-03-2003 08:25 AM
My aluminum shaft came with 1350 series ujoints.As for durability, my buddy runs one in a car that runs 5 teens in the 1/8 and has gone a best 60' of 1.12. He has run the same aluminum shaft for 5 years now, and has never had any problems with it. He has never even changed u joints in it yet.
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jsracingbbf
Gearhead Posts: 2160
From: Batesville,MS. , U.S.A.
Registered: Mar 2002
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posted 02-03-2003 09:17 PM
I found some good shafts at this place.Down in Clearwater FLA.
Guy was nice and didn't try to sell me a Pro-Mod Nitrous only driveshaft, like some of the other ones did. Aluminum shafts
------------------
Jerry
69 Mustang Pro ET Drag
70 Mustang retired former footbrake car
"This is FORD Country! On a Quiet night you can hear a Chevy Rust"
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jsracingbbf
Gearhead Posts: 2160
From: Batesville,MS. , U.S.A.
Registered: Mar 2002
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posted 02-04-2003 04:48 PM
Alex, who is that guy you sent KV to?
Jerry
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