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Author Topic:   Where to jack car to install frame connectors?
662+2
Gearhead

Posts: 107
From: Ontario, Canada
Registered: Jan 2003

posted 01-31-2003 12:32 PM     Click Here to See the Profile for 662+2   Click Here to Email 662+2     Edit/Delete Message   Reply w/Quote
I am putting frame connectors on my 66 fastback and I want to put the car on 4 stands where should I put the stands or should I block the car on the wheels?

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Just Strokin
Gearhead

Posts: 754
From: Tuscaloosa, Alabama
Registered: Dec 2001

posted 01-31-2003 12:34 PM     Click Here to See the Profile for Just Strokin   Click Here to Email Just Strokin     Edit/Delete Message   Reply w/Quote
Right or wrong place to puts stand, I don't know, but I recently put some connectors on the Fairlane and put the jack stand under the leaf springs by the ubolts and under the lower control arms were they attach to the frame.

These positions allowed room to work under the car and not have the jack stand interfere.

------------------
Larry

No fast Fords at this time but one fine cruising 96 F350 CC DRW Power Strokin diesel.
And one rusty 64 Fairlane nick-named the Rust Bucket....And sometimes called the Money Pit...

The sounds of a brain dropping into gear.....
"Buzzzzzz.......Click"

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Ryan Wilke
Gearhead

Posts: 1700
From: Stanton, Michigan 49707
Registered: Oct 2000

posted 01-31-2003 04:28 PM     Click Here to See the Profile for Ryan Wilke   Click Here to Email Ryan Wilke     Edit/Delete Message   Reply w/Quote
In the, "For What it's Worth" category:

-- I put three 8" cement blocks (lots of back n' forth jacking) under each tire of my '69 and leveled the car from front to back (measuring at the top/center of each wheelwell, had the engine/trans in, fuel in tank. Why? Kinda like installing a torque plate when honing a block....so that all the 'normal' stresses were in place.

The height also gave my welder friend lots of space to get the frame connectors welded in without any problems.

I'd do it the same way if I'd was to do it over again.........

Ryan

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NoBS
Journeyman

Posts: 34
From:
Registered: Oct 2002

posted 02-01-2003 01:16 PM     Click Here to See the Profile for NoBS     Edit/Delete Message   Reply w/Quote

I'm not sure I would want to use cement blocks. Too many stories of them collapsing.

OTOH, there are 2 and 3 rib blocks, light and heavy blocks, solid blocks and cap blocks. I guess it would really depend on which block were used and their orientation.


I agree with supporting the vehicle so the frame is loaded normally.

IIRC, When I was doing subframe work I placed two stands under the front cross member and lower controol arms, drooping controol arms form a V with the cross member in a II.

At the rear I put stands under the axle tubes.

One thing to keep in mind is the use of jacks to pre/ re stress the frame, if needed. I remember helping Pop work on my sisters '67 when I was a kid. We jacked certin parts so when weight was put back on the frame it would come back to straight. Funny, that Mustang was in worse shape in '74 than the Classics you'll find today.

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Ryan Wilke
Gearhead

Posts: 1700
From: Stanton, Michigan 49707
Registered: Oct 2000

posted 02-03-2003 12:56 PM     Click Here to See the Profile for Ryan Wilke   Click Here to Email Ryan Wilke     Edit/Delete Message   Reply w/Quote
quote:
Originally posted by NoBS:
[B]
I'm not sure I would want to use cement blocks. Too many stories of them collapsing.

OTOH, there are 2 and 3 rib blocks, light and heavy blocks, solid blocks and cap blocks. I guess it would really depend on which block were used and their orientation. /B]



For sure, use the 3-rib blocks (You're right, I should of been more specific)...and always place the ribs in the upright position. A block isn't nearly as strong with the "smooth/flat" side to the ground. In addition (which I didn't mention previously either), I typically also use a scrap piece of 2" X 8" (wood) about 16" long between the block and tire....this keeps the tire from pushing sideways on the ribs. Then by using two smaller pieces (maybe 1/2" thick X 1" wide X 6"long) as wedges on either side of at least two tires - these pieces will prevent the car from rolling or rocking around on the 2 X 8...

Ryan

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662+2
Gearhead

Posts: 107
From: Ontario, Canada
Registered: Jan 2003

posted 02-03-2003 01:09 PM     Click Here to See the Profile for 662+2   Click Here to Email 662+2     Edit/Delete Message   Reply w/Quote
Thanks for the info I have the car on blocks (wood)under the tires, but I have the motor out so I guess I should wait until I put the motor in before I install the connectors.

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Ryan Wilke
Gearhead

Posts: 1700
From: Stanton, Michigan 49707
Registered: Oct 2000

posted 02-05-2003 05:56 PM     Click Here to See the Profile for Ryan Wilke   Click Here to Email Ryan Wilke     Edit/Delete Message   Reply w/Quote

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Toronado3800
Gearhead

Posts: 364
From: St. Louis, MO
Registered: Jul 2001

posted 02-05-2003 06:29 PM     Click Here to See the Profile for Toronado3800     Edit/Delete Message   Reply w/Quote
This info has helped me a bit too. I figured it would be best to support the car on the rear axle or lower control arm to keep things in line. BUT, I never ever though about block strength side vs. side etc.

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