1. Since funds aren��t a problem at this point, am I be further ahead to get ARP bolts and stick to that method of fastening?

2. Would the higher tensile strength of ARP bolts place different stresses on the block than the original Ford pieces?

3. Do I have the option of using studs on the bottom and/or top ends of the engine? I��ve read and/or heard that studs place different stresses on the block than do bolts, so machined surfaces may distort differently. A related question: would using Hard Blok create a more stable situation in which to use head studs than if the block were unfilled?

4. For street/strip usage, how high in the water jackets would anyone recommend that Hard Blok be used? 1-1/2�� from deck surface? 2�� from deck surface? Other?

5. Just to be sure that the bores haven��t changed after filling, can��t the cylinders simply be ��touched up��, if they need to be opened up a tad? I realize that, ideally, machining should be done after filling, but from a couple other threads I read on here, it appears it will work after machining.

Sorry for the length of my post...

Thanks for whatever insight/experiences anybody may be able to provide.
Scott

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1979 Fairmont Futura, 351C w/Aussie heads, Comp Magnum 280, ProMustang headers, 3" exhaust w/Flowmasters
C6 w/10" converter
9-inch, 31 spl w/3.70s & trac-lok
suspension changes coming.

I wouldn't think that would work very well for a street motor on gas. Not having ever done it, I'm not sure if I would fill it at all for the street.

Hey, Futura, we are pretty close. I'm only 40 miles from Iowa City. Maybe we should hook up sometime.

This block filling question is sort of darned if you do and darned if you don't. I don't like the idea of adding weight to the front end of the car and reducing cooling, though I've read a couple places that with a good cooling (water and oil) filling doesn't have to be a bad thing. I'd like to do what I can to reinforce the cylinders. It's also important to realize that this isn't a daily driver by any stretch of the imagination. Cooling with the current engine doesn't seem to present any problems. Hopefully a new mill wouldn't cause a problem either.

If it works out sometime it'd be fun to meet you...

I've kicked around a North Central M&M doodah sometime next Summer and gotten some interest. I thought having it at Eddyville or Cordova or Earlville or someplace where folks could race or just socialize or whatever would be fun. Maybe at a 2 day race would work out, but nobody has any schedules up yet. I'm not real fussy where its held.

I'll post something when a little more info. is available.

quote:

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Originally posted by futurattraction:
I have some questions for those of you who are machinists by trade, and/or experienced engine builders.

1.Since funds aren��t a problem at this point, am I be further ahead to get ARP bolts and stick to that method of fastening?

2.Would the higher tensile strength of ARP bolts place different stresses on the block than the original Ford pieces?

3.Do I have the option of using studs on the bottom and/or top ends of the engine? I��ve read and/or heard that studs place different stresses on the block than do bolts, so machined surfaces may distort differently. A related question: would using Hard Blok create a more stable situation in which to use head studs than if the block were unfilled?

4.For street/strip usage, how high in the water jackets would anyone recommend that Hard Blok be used? 1-1/2�� from deck surface? 2�� from deck surface? Other?

5. Just to be sure that the bores haven��t changed after filling, can��t the cylinders simply be ��touched up��, if they need to be opened up a tad? I realize that, ideally, machining should be done after filling, but from a couple other threads I read on here, it appears it will work after machining.

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Scott,
I know a machinist or two but I am far from a machinist. I've built a few bracket motors that have lasted, some haven't. I guess I'll throw my 02 cents in anyway.

1. I would use the ARP's

2.I have no idea about the diff stresses BUT whatever stress the block would probably stay together better with the ARP bolts/studs

3. I use the studs, most machinsts/builders I've talked to like them better. Especially when using aluminum heads. I never really asked why, maybe they work better at keeping the caps and heads in place. I know they do help with assembly. All the big industrial engines use studs. Cooper-Bessemer, Ingersol-Rand, Clark, etc.etc.
Depending on your shock towers you might not be able to run studs. I'd at least run the bolts.
On the hard block thing. I would guess that the Hard block would make any block a more stable platform for studs, bolts or whatever fastener used.

4. I didn't use hard Block until I switched to Alky. I fill mine to the water pump holes, which leaves some room at the top of the cylinders for water to circulate. I probably wouldn't fill a street motor.

5.You can re-hone them as long as you don't take alot of material off the walls. I always filled mine first then sent it to the machine shop.
Good Luck