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Author
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Topic: Setting Valve Lash on New cam/lifters.
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fordfan
Gearhead Posts: 2871
From: Walla Walla, Wa, USA
Registered: Jun 99
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posted 12-15-2002 12:41 AM
   
Is there anything special involved in setting valve lash with new hyd. lifters?. The engine is in and running (BBC if you MUST know  lol ). I just havent set final lash, or broken in the cam. I need to get up and going. as for break in instructions say to run at 3000rpm for 20minutes, then change oil, anything else?.
Getting traction is going to be a Nightmare, but thats another post ('70 chevy c-10 stepside, coil over rear  ).
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Joseph J. Shaffer IV
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Too many cars for one person to Own!: '68 Ford Mustang Coupe
'64 Mercury Comet 202
'62 Ford Falcon 2dr Wagon
'70 Chevrolet C-10 Stepside
'41 Chevrolet Stepside
'43 Dodge WC-53 (WWII Powerwagon)
'74 Chevrolet Caprice 454 (Motor Doner for the '70 pickup) .
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69 Sportsroof
Gearhead Posts: 1202
From: Valley, Alabama, USA
Registered: Mar 2002
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posted 12-15-2002 09:43 AM
You have to do this with the engine running. The best way is to cut the top out of an old valve cover (you only need one). Loosen the rocker arm until you hear it start ticking then slowly tighten it back down until the ticking stops plus 1/2 turn more.
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SteveLaRiviere
Administrator Posts: 33371
From: Saco, Maine
Registered: May 99
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posted 12-15-2002 03:21 PM
It's running but you didn't break it in yet? It's broken in all right... Probably not the way you'd want it, though. ------------------
'70 Mustang Mach 1 - '72 Mustang Sprint - '94 F-150 Be sure to remember our sponsors, Mustangs Plus, NPD, and Osborn Reproductions.
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johnmustang
Gearhead Posts: 4235
From: Vancouver Island , British Columbia , Canada
Registered: Nov 2001
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posted 12-15-2002 03:31 PM
quote:
Originally posted by fordfan:
The engine is in and running (BBC if you MUST know lol ). I just havent set final lash, or broken in the cam.
I have to ask , if it is running , why is the cam not broken in yet  ? The most important time for a rebuilt engine is the first 20 to 30 minutes while you break in the cam. Did you just fire it up and let it idle for awhile  ? Did you use any break in lube ? Have you changed your oil since the initial fire up of the motor ? Not trying to pick on you , just trying to get the facts. JOHN  ------------------
65 2+2 FASTBACK
87 TAURUS WAGON
98 F150 XLT TRITON V8 4.6, 4 WHEEL DRIVE
Member:Vancouver Island Mustang Association
M&M #1710
MyPhotoPage
MY TRUCK
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fordfan
Gearhead Posts: 2871
From: Walla Walla, Wa, USA
Registered: Jun 99
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posted 12-15-2002 04:03 PM
its been idled for maybe 2 minutes total. The Cam, lifters, timing gear, roller tip rockers, oil pump, intake and carb are the only new components in the engine. its a crane cam + lifters
Crane billet double roller timing gear
comp roller tip rockers I want to make sure the valves are set right before revving the engine any.
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Joseph J. Shaffer IV
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Too many cars for one person to Own!:
'68 Ford Mustang Coupe
'64 Mercury Comet 202
'62 Ford Falcon 2dr Wagon
'70 Chevrolet C-10 Stepside
'41 Chevrolet Stepside
'43 Dodge WC-53 (WWII Powerwagon)
'74 Chevrolet Caprice 454 (Motor Doner for the '70 pickup) . [This message has been edited by fordfan (edited 12-15-2002).] [This message has been edited by fordfan (edited 12-15-2002).] [This message has been edited by fordfan (edited 12-15-2002).]
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Moneymaker
Administrator Posts: 19704
From: Lyons, IL, USA
Registered: May 99
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posted 12-15-2002 06:12 PM
It's broke in already. ------------------
Alex Denysenko
Co-Administrator and Moderator NHRA/IHRA/SRA member and licensed Superstock driver
MCA member# 53321
NHRA and IHRA SS/LA National Record Holder '00, '01, & '02
Fleet of FoMoCo products including 88 ASC McLaren Mustang #28
Professional Manwhore
The Barry of BarrysGrrl Quote #1: "I never met a magazine mechanic I liked."
Quote #2: "Make sure brain is in gear before engaging mouth!"
Quote #3: "If you can't run with the big dogs, stay on the porch!"
www.moneymakerracing.com
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SteveLaRiviere
Administrator Posts: 33371
From: Saco, Maine
Registered: May 99
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posted 12-15-2002 06:29 PM
The term is scuffed in.------------------
'70 Mustang Mach 1 - '72 Mustang Sprint - '94 F-150 Be sure to remember our sponsors, Mustangs Plus, NPD, and Osborn Reproductions.
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fordfan
Gearhead Posts: 2871
From: Walla Walla, Wa, USA
Registered: Jun 99
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posted 12-15-2002 07:28 PM
So what?, you are just suposed to start it and immediatly rev it to break it in, and NOT check to make sure you aren't gonna break something???.
[This message has been edited by fordfan (edited 12-15-2002).]
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fordfan
Gearhead Posts: 2871
From: Walla Walla, Wa, USA
Registered: Jun 99
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posted 12-15-2002 07:31 PM
quote:
Originally posted by Moneymaker:
It's broke in already.
So, is it broken in or broke?? lol
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Moneymaker
Administrator Posts: 19704
From: Lyons, IL, USA
Registered: May 99
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posted 12-15-2002 07:34 PM
Actually, all that checking should have been done when it was assembled. Change the oil right away if you haven't already done so. If it's not flat by now, you should be OK. ------------------
Alex Denysenko
Co-Administrator and Moderator NHRA/IHRA/SRA member and licensed Superstock driver
MCA member# 53321
NHRA and IHRA SS/LA National Record Holder '00, '01, & '02
Fleet of FoMoCo products including 88 ASC McLaren Mustang #28
Professional Manwhore
The Barry of BarrysGrrl Quote #1: "I never met a magazine mechanic I liked."
Quote #2: "Make sure brain is in gear before engaging mouth!"
Quote #3: "If you can't run with the big dogs, stay on the porch!"
www.moneymakerracing.com
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SteveLaRiviere
Administrator Posts: 33371
From: Saco, Maine
Registered: May 99
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posted 12-15-2002 07:38 PM
Nope, you preset the valve adjustment to run the cam in, then set the final running valve adjustment.The reason you start a new engine then immediately run the cam in at 2500 for 20-30 minutes is because as the engine starts up the hardened lifters run against the softer lifter lobes and burnish in {burnish means to polish} and during this runin period you need the cooling/washing action of the oil being slung off the connecting rods {hence the 2500 rpms} to properly lube the cam lobes while this happens. What you've done is wiped the assembly lube off the lobes {assuming you used some} and now you have metal to metal contact and a bunch of lifters and lobes that are going to get to know each other real well soon.
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'70 Mustang Mach 1 - '72 Mustang Sprint - '94 F-150 Be sure to remember our sponsors, Mustangs Plus, NPD, and Osborn Reproductions.
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fordfan
Gearhead Posts: 2871
From: Walla Walla, Wa, USA
Registered: Jun 99
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posted 12-15-2002 07:48 PM
Well, I put plenty of Lube on the cam and lifters. It sounded good the last time it was started. Hmmn, My uncle who was Helping me, having been a ford tech would have mentioned that
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johnmustang
Gearhead Posts: 4235
From: Vancouver Island , British Columbia , Canada
Registered: Nov 2001
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posted 12-15-2002 07:55 PM
quote:
Originally posted by SteveLaRiviere:
Nope, you preset the valve adjustment to run the cam in, then set the final running valve adjustment.The reason you start a new engine then immediately run the cam in at 2500 for 20-30 minutes is because as the engine starts up the hardened lifters run against the softer lifter lobes and burnish in {burnish means to polish} and during this runin period you need the cooling/washing action of the oil being slung off the connecting rods {hence the 2500 rpms} to properly lube the cam lobes while this happens. What you've done is wiped the assembly lube off the lobes {assuming you used some} and now you have metal to metal contact and a bunch of lifters and lobes that are going to get to know each other real well soon.
Steve & Alex have pretty much covered it , I really have nothing I can add to it , but , you may want to consider draining your oil , pulling the cam , checking the lobes , using break-in-lube again. Don,t forget to pull the distributer get your drill and pre-lube the engine after re-filling it, before firing it up. Just my .02 worth of advice , Steve & Alex would be the ones to give you the best advice. JOHN ------------------
65 2+2 FASTBACK
87 TAURUS WAGON
98 F150 XLT TRITON V8 4.6, 4 WHEEL DRIVE
Member:Vancouver Island Mustang Association
M&M #1710
MyPhotoPage
MY TRUCK
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69 Sportsroof
Gearhead Posts: 1202
From: Valley, Alabama, USA
Registered: Mar 2002
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posted 12-15-2002 09:23 PM
Guess I should have read the original post a little better....
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SteveLaRiviere
Administrator Posts: 33371
From: Saco, Maine
Registered: May 99
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posted 12-16-2002 07:34 AM
quote:
Originally posted by fordfan:
Hmmn, My uncle who was Helping me, having been a ford tech would have mentioned that
Yeah, he should have known better. ------------------
'70 Mustang Mach 1 - '72 Mustang Sprint - '94 F-150 Be sure to remember our sponsors, Mustangs Plus, NPD, and Osborn Reproductions.
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smblk t-bolt
Journeyman Posts: 67
From: port alberni BC Canada
Registered: Apr 2002
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posted 12-17-2002 12:46 AM
"is because as the engine starts up the hardend lifters run against the softer lifter
lobes and burnish in {burnish means to polish}"curious...if you have a properly "broken in" cam from a previous motor and you re-use it in another motor with new lifters, do you still have to break it in the same way? the quote makes it sound like the cam lobes are the only part that "break-in",therefore new lifters wouldnt matter.I always thought they wore into each other?or do the lobes just wear into the lifters? ron
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Moneymaker
Administrator Posts: 19704
From: Lyons, IL, USA
Registered: May 99
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posted 12-17-2002 12:48 AM
Yes you can. ------------------
Alex Denysenko
Co-Administrator and Moderator NHRA/IHRA/SRA member and licensed Superstock driver
MCA member# 53321
NHRA and IHRA SS/LA National Record Holder '00, '01, & '02
Fleet of FoMoCo products including 88 ASC McLaren Mustang #28
Professional Manwhore
The Barry of BarrysGrrl Quote #1: "I never met a magazine mechanic I liked."
Quote #2: "Make sure brain is in gear before engaging mouth!"
Quote #3: "If you can't run with the big dogs, stay on the porch!"
www.moneymakerracing.com
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SteveLaRiviere
Administrator Posts: 33371
From: Saco, Maine
Registered: May 99
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posted 12-17-2002 07:41 AM
quote:
Originally posted by smblk t-bolt:
"is because as the engine starts up the hardend lifters run against the softer lifter
lobes and burnish in {burnish means to polish}"curious...if you have a properly "broken in" cam from a previous motor and you re-use it in another motor with new lifters, do you still have to break it in the same way? the quote makes it sound like the cam lobes are the only part that "break-in",therefore new lifters wouldnt matter.I always thought they wore into each other?or do the lobes just wear into the lifters? ron
Both the lifter and the lobe get companion wear. When you swap cam and lifters between engines the match isn't perfect but it's close enough so there isn't usually a problem as long as you keep the lifters matched to the lobes. ------------------
'70 Mustang Mach 1 - '72 Mustang Sprint - '94 F-150 Be sure to remember our sponsors, Mustangs Plus, NPD, and Osborn Reproductions.
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Rustang
Gearhead Posts: 471
From: Clarion PA
Registered: Nov 2000
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posted 12-17-2002 12:40 PM
Before first firing and engine what I've always done with hydraulic lifters is, (assuming you're on the base circle of the cam each time)put a dial indicator on the rocker arm directly above the pushrod. Tighten down the rocker until the pushrod has moved the lifter plunger down between .020 and .060. Then just make sure the rocker nut is tight, be it poly locks, jam nut, friction nuts, etc. and you should never have to re-adjust it! (Note: just be careful that the lifter plunger has not bottomed out!) ------------------
'68 mustang 351 clevor- 10.92@124
'67 Stang, 351W -11.18@118
'69 351C Torino-14.90@100
'78 Pickup 351W-15.56@88
'79 Pickup 460 ET=??
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Moneymaker
Administrator Posts: 19704
From: Lyons, IL, USA
Registered: May 99
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posted 12-17-2002 05:04 PM
I don't know what all of this fuss is about?
IT's too late already. If it's a chebbie and Joe just fired it up and let it idle without and break in lube, the cam is toast anyway. ------------------
Alex Denysenko
Co-Administrator and Moderator NHRA/IHRA/SRA member and licensed Superstock driver
MCA member# 53321
NHRA and IHRA SS/LA National Record Holder '00, '01, & '02
Fleet of FoMoCo products including 88 ASC McLaren Mustang #28
Professional Manwhore
The Barry of BarrysGrrl Quote #1: "I never met a magazine mechanic I liked."
Quote #2: "Make sure brain is in gear before engaging mouth!"
Quote #3: "If you can't run with the big dogs, stay on the porch!"
www.moneymakerracing.com
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fordfan
Gearhead Posts: 2871
From: Walla Walla, Wa, USA
Registered: Jun 99
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posted 12-18-2002 01:04 AM
quote:
Originally posted by fordfan:
Well, I put plenty of Lube on the cam and lifters.
------------------
Joseph J. Shaffer IV
------------------
Too many cars for one person to Own!: '68 Ford Mustang Coupe
'64 Mercury Comet 202
'62 Ford Falcon 2dr Wagon
'70 Chevrolet C-10 Stepside
'41 Chevrolet Stepside
'43 Dodge WC-53 (WWII Powerwagon)
'74 Chevrolet Caprice 454 (Motor Doner for the '70 pickup) .
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fordfan
Gearhead Posts: 2871
From: Walla Walla, Wa, USA
Registered: Jun 99
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posted 12-28-2002 10:45 PM
My bad, Tyler's Dad had Already Broken in the cam and had failed to mention it.------------------
Joseph J. Shaffer IV
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Too many cars for one person to Own!: '68 Ford Mustang Coupe
'64 Mercury Comet 202
'62 Ford Falcon 2dr Wagon
'70 Chevrolet C-10 Stepside
'41 Chevrolet Stepside
'43 Dodge WC-53 (WWII Powerwagon)
'74 Chevrolet Caprice 454 (Motor Doner for the '70 pickup) .
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chevy enemy
Gearhead Posts: 345
From: Milton-Freewater, Oregon
Registered: Jan 2001
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posted 12-29-2002 12:31 AM
quote:
Originally posted by fordfan:
My bad, Tyler's Dad had Already Broken in the cam and had failed to mention it.
yeah you guys better not be dissin on my dad well id say all is good because joe just dropped me off init and it is running good
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Tyler Shaffer
M&M`s youngest member
`64 falcon futura soon will be and in the process of being a 5.0 powered falcon
`51 willys jeep
`73 plymouth duster 318 5.33 suregrip
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