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Author Topic:   New best time...
65_289
Gearhead

Posts: 761
From:
Registered: Jul 2001

posted 11-23-2002 06:17 PM     Click Here to See the Profile for 65_289   Click Here to Email 65_289     Edit/Delete Message   Reply w/Quote
New best, launching off the limiter at 3500 with 22psi in the ET Drags, shocks on 2, Slide-a-Links at 1 (driver)& 1.5 (pass) turns:

60' - 1.829
330' - 5.375
660' - 8.379
660 mph - 81.19
1000' - 10.982
1320' - 13.251
1320 mph - 99.03

With a 2500 launch & 24 psi, it went

60' - 1.856
330' - 5.4089
660' - 8.4205
660 mph - 80.94
1000' - 11.0268
1320' - 13.2967
1320 mph - 99.07

So for all the wear & tear (lol) of an extra 1000 rpm at launch, I gained a measly .04 on the 1320. But what's up with the 60 foot? There's gotta be some way to get it down. Yeah, it's a torque-less 302, and the 1st gear is a stock C4 ratio, but shouldn't I be at least near 1.80? Ehh, either way, still had fun running a new best!!!

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1965 Coupe, Built C4 w/ brake, 4000 stall, cooler, etc, 9" N case, 4.11's, Spool, 31 spline Moser axles, Daytona pinion support, Biondo Line Lock, Ford XB3 longblock, x303 heads, B-Cam, 9:1 comp., Tri-y headers, cut-outs, Ford Racing high-torque mini-starter, Pertronix Ignitor & Flamethrower coil, 650 double pumper, Edelbrock RPM intake, K&N air, Holley electric fuel pump & AFPR, dual 2-chamber Flowmasters, Summit 3-way fronts, Rancho 5-way rears, 5-leaf springs, Slide-a-Links, Chrome Export Brace, Griffen Radiator, Comp. Eng. subs.

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steve'66
Gearhead

Posts: 6522
From: Sonoma,CA,USA
Registered: Mar 2000

posted 11-23-2002 06:57 PM     Click Here to See the Profile for steve'66   Click Here to Email steve'66     Edit/Delete Message   Reply w/Quote
Run 16-18 psi in the slicks,
Clamp the rear springs,
Loosen and lighten the front end,
Set the launch rpm to 3800,

BTW the .04 came in your 60' time.

The car needs to lose some weight or gain h.p. The 99 mph number is holding you back.

Good luck,

SteveW

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Moneymaker
Administrator

Posts: 19704
From: Lyons, IL, USA
Registered: May 99

posted 11-23-2002 07:11 PM     Click Here to See the Profile for Moneymaker   Click Here to Email Moneymaker     Edit/Delete Message   Reply w/Quote
Yes indeed Steve. It's all in the 60 foot. Our convert at 3650 lbs 60 foots in the 1.70 to 1.72 range.
5.25 - 5.26 330 foot
8.30 660 foot
10.95 1000 foot
and 13.20 13.22 @ 99 MPH 1/4 mile.

Last month in testing suspension set ups, after some adjustments Tony and I went 9 passes back to back from 13.20 to 13.26 with virtually no cool down.
Best 60 foot was 1.689 leaving off two step at 2800 RPM
Worst 60 foot time was 1.721 off two step at 2200 RPM
Tires were at 26 PSI on all runs.

------------------
Alex Denysenko
Co-Administrator and Moderator

NHRA/IHRA/SRA member and licensed Superstock driver
MCA member# 53321
NHRA and IHRA SS/LA National Record Holder '00, '01, & '02
Fleet of FoMoCo products including 88 ASC McLaren Mustang #28
Professional Manwhore
The Barry of BarrysGrrl

Quote #1: "I never met a magazine mechanic I liked."
Quote #2: "Make sure brain is in gear before engaging mouth!"
Quote #3: "If you can't run with the big dogs, stay on the porch!"

[This message has been edited by Moneymaker (edited 11-23-2002).]

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65_289
Gearhead

Posts: 761
From:
Registered: Jul 2001

posted 11-23-2002 07:49 PM     Click Here to See the Profile for 65_289   Click Here to Email 65_289     Edit/Delete Message   Reply w/Quote
quote:
Originally posted by steve'66:
Run 16-18 psi in the slicks,
Clamp the rear springs,
Loosen and lighten the front end,
Set the launch rpm to 3800,

BTW the .04 came in your 60' time.

The car needs to lose some weight or gain h.p. The 99 mph number is holding you back.

Good luck,

SteveW


It's got 90/10's, I guess I could ditch the sway bar. What kind of clamp are you talking about?

This winter, the battery is going to the trunk, we're getting an electric fan, and the Super Comps are replacing the why-try's. I figure that [b]might[b] gain 1-2 tenths.

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steve'66
Gearhead

Posts: 6522
From: Sonoma,CA,USA
Registered: Mar 2000

posted 11-23-2002 08:11 PM     Click Here to See the Profile for steve'66   Click Here to Email steve'66     Edit/Delete Message   Reply w/Quote
I learned a few tricks from MM recently! I'll pass them on to you for free.

The clamps are 1/4 x 1" flat bar cut 3 1/2" long with two 3/8 holes in each end just far enough apart to clear your leaf springs. Put one above and one below the spring pack at each leaf's end and tighten them up. That will reduce the spring's ability to rise. Set your Rancho shocks stiff as possible to further resist rear end lift.

As far as the front, lose the sway bar and lube everything up good! Including the front spring perches and finally the front struts.

Good luck, but definately move all the weight you can to the back and lose any weight possible on the nose.

SteveW

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65_289
Gearhead

Posts: 761
From:
Registered: Jul 2001

posted 11-23-2002 08:51 PM     Click Here to See the Profile for 65_289   Click Here to Email 65_289     Edit/Delete Message   Reply w/Quote
Hey steve, you got any pics of the clamps installed?

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mustangboy
Gearhead

Posts: 652
From: Ont, Canada
Registered: Mar 2002

posted 11-23-2002 08:53 PM     Click Here to See the Profile for mustangboy     Edit/Delete Message   Reply w/Quote
Steve I am running slapper bars and was a little confused which way to set my CE adjustable rear shocks.I thought it would be good to let the body rise easily as this would help the slapper bars plant the tires.You are saying run the shocks to resist rear end lift,is this correct?Or are you running slapper bars.I'm only getting 60s in the 2.0 range and I would kill to be running low 13s as my mph is faster than 65_289 or Alex's 99 mph passes.

------------------
1968 mustang j-code [email protected] 306cu.in, stock ported heads,weiand exellerator,650 holley DP,hedman hedders,comp 292 Magnum cam,4-speed,8 inch 4.11 detroit locker

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steve'66
Gearhead

Posts: 6522
From: Sonoma,CA,USA
Registered: Mar 2000

posted 11-23-2002 09:18 PM     Click Here to See the Profile for steve'66   Click Here to Email steve'66     Edit/Delete Message   Reply w/Quote
Yeah,

The goal is to have the car launch with one motion upwards on the front end. Right now when you guys launch the rear end rises, then the front end rises. You need the front end to rise more, and the rear to rise less. You can remove your front shock towers and make flat towers from 5/16 steel plate. That will give you 1 1/2" more of free front end travel. As far as rear shock stiffness you can go as stiff as possible before you reach a point where the rear tires are pulled off the ground by the rising springs. When this happens then loosen the shocks a notch. Clamping the springs prevents this!

Yes, the '66 is a lakewood traction bar/leaf spring/Rancho 9000 shocked suspension. It 60's in the high 1.4s now, but it does have more torque than you guys with the 408 and a 4500 stall converter. You should both be in the 1.7s pretty easily once you get the suspension ironed out. Video tape the car during the launch and watch it on slow motion or frame by frame. You'll see that it lifts the rear, then after that wasted motion the front end starts to rise. It's probably too late tho since the rear tires are probably spinning already. Again you gotta get the front up right away to transfer the weight to the rear slicks.

Good luck,

SteveW

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steve'66
Gearhead

Posts: 6522
From: Sonoma,CA,USA
Registered: Mar 2000

posted 11-23-2002 09:23 PM     Click Here to See the Profile for steve'66   Click Here to Email steve'66     Edit/Delete Message   Reply w/Quote
quote:
Originally posted by 65_289:
Hey steve, you got any pics of the clamps installed?

No, just buy some 1/4 x 1" flat steel at the hardware and cut it up into strips long enough to span across the width of your springs and drill hole in each end of the straps for 3/8" bolts and bolt them down hard to clamp the leaves together. In front of and behind the axle. It'll ride like a buggy, but who cares!

SteveW

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