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Author Topic:   Best oil for alky?
Dave_C
Gearhead

Posts: 968
From: Gadsden, Al
Registered: Aug 99

posted 11-22-2002 05:27 PM     Click Here to See the Profile for Dave_C   Click Here to Email Dave_C     Edit/Delete Message   Reply w/Quote
What is a good conventional oil for use with methanol? The majority of guys I know have said that Kendall was the best.

I say was, because they have apparently been bought out and the formula has been changed. I do know the oil looks different. In the old bottle Kendall had a greenish tint. Now it's in a new bottle and looks brown/gold like any other oil.

I will change over to synthetic oil after I get the teething problems over with. Always some minor fuel problems when going to alky injection for the first time. I don't want to hurt the engine, but I also don't want to waste $$$ synthetic oil until I get the tuneup where it needs to be. Also need to see what weight synthetic I need based on what pressure the engine holds.

Later,
David Cole

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Dad Vishus
Gearhead

Posts: 836
From: Moscow, Iowa, USA
Registered: Dec 2001

posted 11-22-2002 05:33 PM     Click Here to See the Profile for Dad Vishus   Click Here to Email Dad Vishus     Edit/Delete Message   Reply w/Quote
Number 11 Royal Purple for synthetic.

The water settles to the bottom after sitting for a while. You can drain off the water and don't have to change so often.

Don't know for sure about petroleum based.

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63 Falcon 377 Cleveland stroker Flying Toilet alchohol injection. 6.19 @ 110 MPH 1/8 mile
2002 Ranger FX4 daily driver
2000 F350 PSD Crew cab dually
98 US Cargo Phantom II 28'

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Just Strokin
Gearhead

Posts: 754
From: Tuscaloosa, Alabama
Registered: Dec 2001

posted 11-23-2002 09:22 PM     Click Here to See the Profile for Just Strokin   Click Here to Email Just Strokin     Edit/Delete Message   Reply w/Quote
Dave,

I don't know if I would go synthetic. As often as I have heard some guys change oil running alky, It would be very expensive in my thoughts.

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kid vishus
Gearhead

Posts: 6098
From: middle of NC
Registered: Oct 2000

posted 11-23-2002 09:41 PM     Click Here to See the Profile for kid vishus   Click Here to Email kid vishus     Edit/Delete Message   Reply w/Quote
If you're lucky, you wont have any "teething" problems with your injection setup. I know of several guys that didnt have any probs at all.

I would just run some decent petroleum oil in it till you get the "bugs" out, then switch to RP. Regardless of pressure, the alchy needs to be run with RP #11, it's 5w-20, the other weights get fouled like other oils do. (Regardless, I would never run that heavy endurance racing/stock car crap them idiots on DRR all run, the 20-50, and straight 50) It's designed for use with "exotic" fuels, mainly alcohol. The main thing with alchy is, you need to keep as much heat in the motor as possible to keep the moisture evaporated out. Most of the guys I used to race with liked to try and keep them around 180* when they shut them off. But, with the RP #11, when you are done, you let it sit overnite, crack the drainplug, and clear water will run out, followed by a little "murky" water/oil mix, then clear RP. At that point you tighten the drainplug back up and go. I run mine about 6 or 7 weeks before changing it (sometimes more). Although right now I cant afford it, and have been using "normal" synthetic oil (Syntec 5-30), and it gets a little nasty looking after awhile, even though I keep heat in it.

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kid vishus
Gearhead

Posts: 6098
From: middle of NC
Registered: Oct 2000

posted 11-23-2002 10:14 PM     Click Here to See the Profile for kid vishus   Click Here to Email kid vishus     Edit/Delete Message   Reply w/Quote
I just want to add, with my alcohol motor I have ran about every oil (Mobil 1 synthetic, Syntec, Castrol petroleum, QS petroleum, Havoline petroleum, etc) on the shelves of the local stores, and they all got nasty looking relatively quickly. The only one that didnt was the RP.

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Dave_C
Gearhead

Posts: 968
From: Gadsden, Al
Registered: Aug 99

posted 11-23-2002 10:50 PM     Click Here to See the Profile for Dave_C   Click Here to Email Dave_C     Edit/Delete Message   Reply w/Quote
Thanks,

I am going to use the RP, just not on the intital startup. I'll swap it in on the first change. I'll just get some reg 10W-30 for the time being tomake sure there are no teething problems.

Later,
David Cole

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Moneymaker
Administrator

Posts: 25883
From: Lyons, IL, USA
Registered: May 99

posted 11-23-2002 10:57 PM     Click Here to See the Profile for Moneymaker   Click Here to Email Moneymaker     Edit/Delete Message   Reply w/Quote
I don't drink anymore, but you cannot find a better lubricant to use with alcohol than RP. No brag, just fact!

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Alex Denysenko
Co-Administrator and Moderator

NHRA/IHRA/SRA member and licensed Superstock driver
MCA member# 53321
NHRA and IHRA SS/LA National Record Holder '00, '01, & '02
Fleet of FoMoCo products including 88 ASC McLaren Mustang #28
Professional Manwhore
The Barry of BarrysGrrl

Quote #1: "I never met a magazine mechanic I liked."
Quote #2: "Make sure brain is in gear before engaging mouth!"
Quote #3: "If you can't run with the big dogs, stay on the porch!"

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sprintdrvr18
Journeyman

Posts: 1
From: proctor arkansas
Registered: Nov 2002

posted 11-24-2002 10:52 PM     Click Here to See the Profile for sprintdrvr18   Click Here to Email sprintdrvr18     Edit/Delete Message   Reply w/Quote
Hey guys, im the new guy

If this is a new motor, this is what we did on my new motor for my sprint car. Use regular 1030 oil to break in. Let run for about 30 minutes, drain and change filter, cut the top of filter off to make sure you got all metal out of motor. I personally use Kenall 2050. Holds up great and not a real bad price. Just my opioion. I have never used RP, heard its a good oil. Hope I was help to you

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Dave_C
Gearhead

Posts: 968
From: Gadsden, Al
Registered: Aug 99

posted 11-24-2002 11:05 PM     Click Here to See the Profile for Dave_C   Click Here to Email Dave_C     Edit/Delete Message   Reply w/Quote
Thanks,

Welcome to M&M. You'll like it here. I think you may be our first sprint car driver. Cool. LOve to watch those things. Also like the killer engines.

The engine is a 557 BBF. It's not new, so it's already broken in. But it was on gas before with a carb. I'm just changing it over to alky injection. A Flying Toilet setup.

The startup oil won't stay in for long. I've had the top end apart as well as the oil pan off. Lot's of gasket scraping. I think I caught it all with towels, but I'm paranoid. So, I'll run it for a few minutes, hopefully get the fuel curve right and then change the oil to get rid of any junk that might have been missed. That's when I'll go to RP.

Later,
David Cole

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cracing
Gearhead

Posts: 340
From: Saltillo Miss. USA
Registered: Jan 2002

posted 11-29-2002 02:08 AM     Click Here to See the Profile for cracing   Click Here to Email cracing     Edit/Delete Message   Reply w/Quote
Dave I run Dinosaur oil due to price, I have run syn a few times just couldnt find any thing to justify cost. All engines arent the same as you well know. But an engine set up with tighter clearances as a lot do now dont actually need a thick oil. I WAS an old schooler who used to build em loose then use a thick oil. I use 20W50 in the heat of summer then 30W the rest of the time. I have never had any bearing related failures, only valve & wrist pin problems. I like the Kendall my self in my Ford, however I use Castrol in the late model Dodge dirt car & in the Chev powered IMCA Mod. But they sponsor the oil for them. All are alky. If it gets real milky, warm engine to 200 before shut down, then remove breathers to vent.I have seen some hook a shop vac to breather tube while running a few moments that works too. Main thing is change it often & check filter. I use scent in my alky & when I can smell it on dipstick, time to change. Sorry for rambling,Hell Im old, but its all good!

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BAD COMPANY TILL THE DAY I DIE!!!!!

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69maverick
Moderator

Posts: 1455
From: Thomaston,CT.
Registered: Jan 2001

posted 11-29-2002 10:38 AM     Click Here to See the Profile for 69maverick   Click Here to Email 69maverick     Edit/Delete Message   Reply w/Quote
This is old info but back when I ran Nitro and Alcohol I used Amolie pro! It came in a Silver can and it said For use in Top fuel and Alcohol engines! It was petroleum based.
I would think that Synthetics would be to thin! But If Alex Says to use R.P. Then the MOTOR GOD has spoken!! I would follow his Recomendation! for sure!!

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Moneymaker
Administrator

Posts: 25883
From: Lyons, IL, USA
Registered: May 99

posted 11-29-2002 11:53 AM     Click Here to See the Profile for Moneymaker   Click Here to Email Moneymaker     Edit/Delete Message   Reply w/Quote
Back before I knew any better I used to use straight 40w in the spring and fall and 50w racing oil in the summer months. I also used to always run one extra quart of oil. SO with a 9 quart system, I used 10 quarts of oil. We did that because that's what all the top engine builders and machine shops said to do for saftey.
We were at a race years ago in the mid 70's and I popped a head gasket. We replaced it and had to drain the milk shake oil. All I could come up with was some 10w30 and only 6 quarts at that.
In the heat of the day for first round at 1:00 in the afternoon I went almost .020 quicker than I had been running. Hmmmmm?
By the following weekend I was using racing 20w50 and only running 7 quarts. I never looked back.

------------------
Alex Denysenko
Co-Administrator and Moderator

NHRA/IHRA/SRA member and licensed Superstock driver
MCA member# 53321
NHRA and IHRA SS/LA National Record Holder '00, '01, & '02
Fleet of FoMoCo products including 88 ASC McLaren Mustang #28
Professional Manwhore
The Barry of BarrysGrrl

Quote #1: "I never met a magazine mechanic I liked."
Quote #2: "Make sure brain is in gear before engaging mouth!"
Quote #3: "If you can't run with the big dogs, stay on the porch!"

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