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Author
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Topic: What are rocker arm stud girdles?
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rockafellz
Gearhead Posts: 914
From: San Lorenzo, CA, USA
Registered: Aug 2001
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posted 11-06-2002 12:45 AM
   
Hey Fellas,In my research for ARP rocker arm studs, I found a few posts regarding stud girdles. Where exactly do they go? Do they go in between the stud and rocker arm? Is it thin enough that it won't touch the rocker arm axis (is that the proper word?). Do I need longer pushrods? I'm sort of confused as to where they are placed on the studs  Also, do you guys think I need it? I'm running a solid flat tappet camshaft with .565 lift in./ex. Thanks in advance. Erik ------------------
1966 Ford Mustang 2+2
Mine - Restomod in Progress 1966 Ford Mustang Coupe
Dad's - Original Unrestored
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jsracingbbf
Gearhead Posts: 1217
From: Batesville,MS. , U.S.A.
Registered: Mar 2002
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posted 11-06-2002 01:29 AM
Erik, I'll try to get some pics of mine tommorow and post them. Basiclly Stud girdles fit on top of the rocker arm. They are usually some type of aluminum or steel bar type material that ties all the rocker studs together on TOP of the rocker to reduce stud flex. Studs have a tendency to flex as RPM increases. These Stud girdles have some sort of lock that locks the valve lash setting. Different stud girdles employ different style locks. Some use a U bolt others have a flat spring loaded bar. If properly installed they do NOT touch the rocker arm or valve, they DO attach to the top of the stud/Poly lock. By anchoring the Poly Lock they tie all the studs together to make them all less likely to flex? You may not need them on your motor, but I think they are worth it. I used to break studs about 3 times a year before I had them. I started running a Jomar type stud girdle on my cleveland a good while back and now run one on the BBF. Since then I haven't broken a single stud. I will say I replace my ARP studs and throw the old ones in a box for spares about every other tear down. Hope this helps 
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Jerry Smith
69 Mustang Pro ET Drag
70 Mustang retired former footbrake car
Murpy's Law " a Smith and Wesson beats 4 Aces"
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Dave_C
Gearhead Posts: 666
From: Gadsden, Al
Registered: Aug 99
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posted 11-06-2002 01:37 AM
Stud girdles are aluminum bars that tie all the rocker studs together. They clamp to the rocker studs above the rocker arms. You have to use longer than normal studs to do this. Also requires longer locknuts. The nuts come most brands of girdle.They serve two functions. 1. They tie all the rocker arms together almost like one large stiff unit. Single rocker arm studs will flex alot at high rpm and/or high spring pressures. The girdles stop most of this. 2. Since they clamp down on the rocker arm lock nuts they keep the nuts from losing any adjustment at all. Since the nut can't back off any changein valve lash is an alert to a wear/breakage problem in the valvetrain. I like them on any engine with a solid lifter cam and consider them a must-have if you have valve spring pressures over 200 lbs on the seat or turn the engine over 6800 or so. BTW< you also have to have "tall" valve covers. Stock covers won't fit over them. A couple of pics:
my 557 BBF:
the 383W I used to have:
 Later,
David Cole [This message has been edited by Dave_C (edited 11-06-2002).]
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jsracingbbf
Gearhead Posts: 1217
From: Batesville,MS. , U.S.A.
Registered: Mar 2002
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posted 11-06-2002 01:40 AM
Erik, look at this at summit
stud girdle
Jerry
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rockafellz
Gearhead Posts: 914
From: San Lorenzo, CA, USA
Registered: Aug 2001
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posted 11-06-2002 10:00 AM
Thanks Jerry & Dave. I appreciate the very descriptive explanation.So does the original set screw still screw into the poly lock and then another stud screwed over that? Or is there a whole new set screw that gets screwed in? Here's the order from bottom to top (correct me if i'm wrong). rocker arm stud -> roller rocker -> poly lock -> set screw -> stud girdle stud (screwed into extra threads of poly lock?)->stud girdle? Is that correct? Thanks in advance. Erik ------------------
1966 Ford Mustang 2+2
Mine - Restomod in Progress 1966 Ford Mustang Coupe
Dad's - Original Unrestored
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kid vishus
Gearhead Posts: 3894
From: middle of NC
Registered: Oct 2000
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posted 11-06-2002 10:18 AM
If you buy the stud girdle new, it will come with longer (taller) poly locks for the stud girdle to fasten on. There is no extra set screw, just the on ein the poly lock.
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rockafellz
Gearhead Posts: 914
From: San Lorenzo, CA, USA
Registered: Aug 2001
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posted 11-06-2002 11:19 AM
quote:
Originally posted by kid vishus:
If you buy the stud girdle new, it will come with longer (taller) poly locks for the stud girdle to fasten on. There is no extra set screw, just the on ein the poly lock.
KV, so the old poly locks get permanently removed and replaced with new ones? Sounds about right, just clearing the confusion. Erik ------------------
1966 Ford Mustang 2+2
Mine - Restomod in Progress 1966 Ford Mustang Coupe
Dad's - Original Unrestored
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Dave_C
Gearhead Posts: 666
From: Gadsden, Al
Registered: Aug 99
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posted 11-06-2002 11:28 AM
quote:
Originally posted by rockafellz:
Here's the order from bottom to top (correct me if i'm wrong).rocker arm stud -> roller rocker -> poly lock -> set screw -> stud girdle stud (screwed into extra threads of poly lock?)->stud girdle? Is that correct?
Thanks in advance.
Erik
It's like this:
rocker arm stud (new longer than stock
stud,made just for using stud girdles) rocker arm poly lock (new longer ones that come with stud girdle) set screw (new ones that comes with new longer poly locks) stud girdle (it doesn't thread on to anything, it just clamps on to the extra length of the new poly lock). See pic above of my BBF.
Later,
David Cole
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rockafellz
Gearhead Posts: 914
From: San Lorenzo, CA, USA
Registered: Aug 2001
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posted 11-06-2002 11:32 AM
THANKS A MIL!!  How would I determine how long of a stud I need? ARP has like 6 different sized to choose from. Erik ------------------
1966 Ford Mustang 2+2
Mine - Restomod in Progress 1966 Ford Mustang Coupe
Dad's - Original Unrestored
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Moneymaker
Administrator Posts: 18704
From: Lyons, IL, USA
Registered: May 99
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posted 11-06-2002 11:37 AM
I have some new Windsor ones for sale. Both 3/8 and 7/16. High quality Ridgeway Products. ------------------
Alex Denysenko
Co-Administrator and Moderator NHRA/IHRA/SRA member and licensed Superstock driver
MCA member# 53321
NHRA and IHRA SS/LA National Record Holder '00, '01, & '02
Fleet of FoMoCo products including 88 ASC McLaren Mustang #28
Professional Manwhore
The Barry of BarrysGrrl Quote #1: "I never met a magazine mechanic I liked."
Quote #2: "Make sure brain is in gear before engaging mouth!"
Quote #3: "If you can't run with the big dogs, stay on the porch!"
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Dave_C
Gearhead Posts: 666
From: Gadsden, Al
Registered: Aug 99
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posted 11-06-2002 11:55 AM
quote:
Originally posted by rockafellz:
THANKS A MIL!!
How would I determine how long of a stud I need? ARP has like 6 different sized to choose from.
Erik
With my 383W iused ARP # 100-7101. That's what ARP said to use. Also double checked with the mfg on my girdle. Both the SBF and BBF girdles in the above pic are Probe. I have heard of problems with some other Probe parts, but I was very pleased with their stud girdles. Easy on/off. No problems ever.
http://www.probeindustries.com/Catalog/Catalog_Home.htm BTW, one other item. Notice in the above 383W pic that the top bar of the girdle is in two parts. That is so the center "notch" in the girdle can clear all valve covers. Some stud girdles have a solid top bar. It won't clear the notch in some valve covers on the top, center bolt. The valve covers I used were the Ford Motorsport polished aluminum tall covers. The center notch on them is very deep. Would not clear a regular girdle. Later,
David Cole [This message has been edited by Dave_C (edited 11-06-2002).]
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