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Author Topic:   Clutch question?
bluestreek
Gearhead

Posts: 1086
From: Athens,GA
Registered: Jul 2001

posted 11-04-2002 10:17 AM     Click Here to See the Profile for bluestreek   Click Here to Email bluestreek     Edit/Delete Message   Reply w/Quote
Is the throwout bearing supposed to constantly rest on the pressure plate? Or is the peddle spring supposed to pull it back off? The reason I ask is because my clutch peddle sits about 1" lower than my brake peddle, and there is no free play. Just engage or disengage.

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1966 Mustang Cpe 289 stroked to 331 c.i., 5.4 H-beams, Forged slugs, ported TFS alum. heads, ported Stealth 8020 intake, CompCams Mech. Roller, Holley 750 HP, 4speed, 9" 3.50 posi, BFG Drag radials..

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Rory McNeil
Gearhead

Posts: 1098
From: Surrey, B.C. Canada
Registered: Nov 2000

posted 11-04-2002 12:22 PM     Click Here to See the Profile for Rory McNeil   Click Here to Email Rory McNeil     Edit/Delete Message   Reply w/Quote
No, the older cars with mechanical clutch linkage should have at least 1" of clutch pedal freeplay. Are you using a diagprahm clucth? If so, you should remove the overcenter spring under the dash, as it is quite stiff, & not needed with a diagprapm pressure plate.

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78 Fairmont 428 4 speed [email protected]
80 Fairmont 302 5 speed [email protected]
85 Mustang NHRA Stocker under construction, 302 5 speed
59 Meteor (Canadian Ford) 2 dr sedan 332, auto
74 F350 ramp truck 390 4spd

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bluestreek
Gearhead

Posts: 1086
From: Athens,GA
Registered: Jul 2001

posted 11-04-2002 01:09 PM     Click Here to See the Profile for bluestreek   Click Here to Email bluestreek     Edit/Delete Message   Reply w/Quote
Yes, on the diaphragm. I'm using the FMS King Cobra clutch system. I was worried that if the throwout was riding the PP constantly, it would cause quick failure.
Are you reffering to that HEAVY spring that helps the pedal go to the floor?

Thanks,
Dan

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1966 Mustang Coupe: Custom glass hood and SCOOP sits atop a 289 stroked to 331 c.i., 5.4 H-beams, Forged slugs, ported TFS alum. heads, ported Stealth 8020 intake, CompCams Xtreme Solid Roller, Holley 750 HP, long tubes, 4speed, 9" 3.50 posi, BFG Drag radials..

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bifs66
Gearhead

Posts: 132
From: Maryland
Registered: Apr 2000

posted 11-04-2002 03:28 PM     Click Here to See the Profile for bifs66   Click Here to Email bifs66     Edit/Delete Message   Reply w/Quote
I have a Centerforce DF clutch along with the original Z-bar and clutch linkage in the 66 Fastback. The clutch fork and throwout bearing are 66 pieces too. The freeplay was setup at about 1" which obviously means that the throwout bearing was not riding on the clutch release fingers without depressing the pedal. In normal street driving, it worked great; however, the first time that I shifted at 5500 rpm, the pedal stuck to the floor until the rpms dropped down. The rpm thing may be a characterictic of Centerforce clutches, but all diaphram clutches may have similar problems. As Rory McNeil posted, it was necessary for me to remove the large "over-the-center" spring under the dash as it overpowered the pressure plate's ability to return at high rpms. Since this was a 66 Mustang, the big under dash spring was the only thing that held the pedal all the way up (and the throwout bearing off the fingers). Therefore, I had to add another spring (under the hood) to return the pedal all the way up. Now, everything is OK. Apparently in 66, the big, under dash spring keeps the pedal fully returned until it gets about halfway down, then it reverses function and acts as a force to push on the pedal. I assume this was to reduce the pedal effort on the old Long-style clutches.

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Bernie Frank
66 Fastback restomod project
85 GT (preserved)
82 GT (original)

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bluestreek
Gearhead

Posts: 1086
From: Athens,GA
Registered: Jul 2001

posted 11-05-2002 12:10 AM     Click Here to See the Profile for bluestreek   Click Here to Email bluestreek     Edit/Delete Message   Reply w/Quote
I thank yall for the info. Before removing the big spring, I may try to adjust the Z-bar rod out a little longer and see if it will cause "the spring" to hold the pedal up. I think it was working fine before the new clutch broke in.

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1966 Mustang Coupe: Custom glass hood and BIG scoop sits atop a 289 stroked to 331 c.i., Steel crank and girdle, 5.4 H-beams, Forged slugs, ported TFS alum. heads, ported Stealth 8020 intake, CompCams Xtreme Solid Roller, Holley 750 HP, long tubes, 4speed, 9" 3.50 posi, BFG Drag radials..

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V8 Thumper
Gearhead

Posts: 2991
From: Orange, Ca. United States of America
Registered: Dec 2001

posted 11-05-2002 08:41 AM     Click Here to See the Profile for V8 Thumper   Click Here to Email V8 Thumper     Edit/Delete Message   Reply w/Quote
I don't mean to piss gasoline on the fire , but I too run a Centerforce DF with the stock z-bar and BIG pedal spring still in place. My pedal actually sits just a bit higher than the brake pedal, with very little free play (I like immediate engagement/disengagement). I've shifted on the 6k limiter without any clutch/pedal problems at all

If you decide to try it without that big return spring, remove the stop brakcet and hyper-extend the pedal up. The spring comes off easy that way

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1965 GT coupe, 333ci aluminum headed/solid cammed stroker, four speed, 3.70:1 9"

All Blue Oval, no blue bottle
http://mustangsandmore.50megs.com/V8Thumper.html

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bluestreek
Gearhead

Posts: 1086
From: Athens,GA
Registered: Jul 2001

posted 11-07-2002 12:26 AM     Click Here to See the Profile for bluestreek   Click Here to Email bluestreek     Edit/Delete Message   Reply w/Quote
Thanks to everyone for the suggestions.

Well, I played around with adjustments and such until I got p****d off, then took a dremel tool and quickly cut "the spring" outta there!!
That big beast was putting pressure and weird tension on everything! Now the pedal and linkage moves like it has roller bearings.

I used a throttle spring on the z-bar to pull the clutch pedal up 3/4" and it's now dead even with the brake pedal and it all feels just right.

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1966 Mustang Coupe: Custom glass hood and BIG scoop sits atop a 289 stroked to 331 c.i., Steel crank and girdle, 5.4 H-beams, Forged slugs, ported TFS alum. heads, ported Stealth 8020 intake, CompCams Xtreme Solid Roller, Holley 750 HP, long tubes, 4speed, 9" 3.50 posi, BFG Drag radials..

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Wulfgar
Gearhead

Posts: 193
From: SAn diego, CA, USA
Registered: Oct 99

posted 11-08-2002 01:24 AM     Click Here to See the Profile for Wulfgar   Click Here to Email Wulfgar     Edit/Delete Message   Reply w/Quote
I run a hydraulic clutch assembly(Mcleod) assembly setup is from Darkhorse performance. The pedal does sit a bit higher than the brake and it is pretty heavy. There is no play up top hardly. I drove the car for about 1000 miles and then My engine had some problems and came back out.
Upon inspecion of the clutch it showed almost no wear. And this is with pretty hard use and high RPM shifting.
At first I tried to readjust the clutch play but I found that there was no adjusment. I called scloeod too and they told me it was supposed to be like that.
Go figure.

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