Brought to you in part by:


Shop Eastwood for your Auto Restoration Needs!

  Mustangsandmore Forums
  Ford Racing
  Fabrication help

Post New Topic  Post A Reply
profile | register | preferences | faq | search

UBBFriend: Email This Page to Someone! next newest topic | next oldest topic
Author Topic:   Fabrication help

Posts: 210
From: Sumner, WA
Registered: Dec 2001

posted 10-30-2002 03:52 PM     Click Here to See the Profile for Kyle   Click Here to Email Kyle     Edit/Delete Message   Reply w/Quote
I have been reading through Mustang Performance Handbook: Vol. 2 and looking at the plans to build double adjustable upper control arms (for fox bodies). His plan is to use 1"x6"x.219" wall mild steel tubing and Aurora rod ends that have 5/8-18 threaded ends and 1/2" rod holes. He has you tap one end of the tubing with RH threads, and the other with LH threads, add jam nuts, and away you go (you have to machine aluminum bushings too, but thats another story).

I priced the Aurora ends, and they are like $23 for each end, which is about the going rate for HD rod ends. So my questions are about building these cheaper. What I was thinking is that I could find some solid hex steel and drill/tap the ends for a 1/2-20 rod end. That way I could use cheaper and more common rod ends, and I think the hex shape of the steel would be easier to adjust- I could just use a wrench.

Question 1: will this be strong enough? The steel and 1/2-20 threads, I mean. I know they will be heavier than the origional plan, but I don't think there will be that much difference, and 1/2" rod ends are much easier to get should something happen.

Question 2: do I have to use 4130 rod ends, or would standard rod ends work fine? The car will be a turbocharged car, no transbrake, so I don't anticipate the suspension being hit real hard on launch. The rod ends I was looking at were the standard rod ends in the S&W racecars catalog (they say a 3/4" end is rated at 14,207 lbs, but a 4130 is rated at 24,000lbs, just to give you some comparison).

Thanks for the help!

IP: Logged


Posts: 52
From: Charlottetown, PEI, Canada
Registered: Nov 2001

posted 10-30-2002 06:05 PM     Click Here to See the Profile for Mario428   Click Here to Email Mario428     Edit/Delete Message   Reply w/Quote
The steel is fine as long as you use 1.0 across flats hex or similiar.
The standard 1/2-20 rod ends are a death trap.
Remember the top rod ends in any 4-link system are in tension when you launch and all you have holding it together is the tiny strap of material that wraps around the ball. Use the CM 5/8 rod ends at a minimum.

IP: Logged


Posts: 4637
From: Delta BC Canada
Registered: Dec 99

posted 10-31-2002 02:36 AM     Click Here to See the Profile for TomP   Click Here to Email TomP     Edit/Delete Message   Reply w/Quote
first of all ,both ends don't need to be adjustable. If you wanna scrimp on rod ends get a pair of 3/4" standard duty ones and use 1" x .156" wall D.O.M tube, thread one end and weld a bracket to fit the bushing on the other end.

IP: Logged

All times are ET (US)

next newest topic | next oldest topic

Administrative Options: Close Topic | Archive/Move | Delete Topic
Post New Topic  Post A Reply
Hop to:

Contact Us | Mustangsandmore Front Page

Copyright 2003, Steve LaRiviere. All Rights Reserved.

Ultimate Bulletin Board 5.47d

Amazon Honor System Click Here to Pay Learn More

[The M&M Gearhead Gear Store]

[Acronyms][Calendar][Chat][Classifieds] [Links] [Members' Pics] [Tech] [ Bookstore] [Advertise on] [ T-Shirts]