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Author
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Topic: Changed intakes today
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kid vishus
Gearhead Posts: 4538
From: middle of NC
Registered: Oct 2000
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posted 04-29-2002 10:40 PM
   
I took that Active intake off and put my old reliable strip dominator back on. I also added my trusty 2" spacer to it. After I got the Aussie intake off I started measuring the plenum area (roughly) of the two intakes. Although the Active is much taller, the plenum area is alot shallower and non near as wide either. I then started to pull some plugs, they were ran in the car last year, so they were already "colored" up. BUT, 2 weeks ago, on the car's one day out this year, it seemed to run warmer than normal, and the tips of the electrode (the part in the porcelian) are shiny almost like they might have started to melt. Is it possible that the smaller plenum area leaned the motor out? It did run faster with more timing though, so I'm confused. I will have new plugs in it for this weekend. 
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steve'66
Gearhead Posts: 6522
From: Sonoma,CA,USA
Registered: Mar 2000
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posted 04-29-2002 10:47 PM
quote:
Originally posted by kid vishus:
I will have new plugs in it for this weekend.
It's nice that you're gonna spring for a new set of plugs fer it.  LOL I'm sure it'll love you and run much better this weekend. SteveW
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jkilroy
Gearhead Posts: 1719
From: Vicksburg, MS
Registered: Dec 99
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posted 04-29-2002 11:23 PM
It does sound like you are running lean, which may indicate that the intake is getting more air into the engine, all other things being equal. Did you try bumping the jets a couple sizes?------------------
Jay Kilroy
68' Fastback GT 390
"No such thing as a cam thats too big"
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kid vishus
Gearhead Posts: 4538
From: middle of NC
Registered: Oct 2000
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posted 04-30-2002 03:47 PM
I never changed the jets. Last year the last few times I took the car out, in air very comparable to that weekends, it was actually on the fat side. I figured with the same heads and camshaft that it should have been ok. I will definately check the new plugs this week.Steve, I already have bought the plugs, now I just need to find the ambition to change them. It's not a 20 minute job with this car. The valve covers have to come off to get to the center plugs.
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Dusty Kiser
Gearhead Posts: 126
From: Bethel,Oh USA
Registered: Mar 2002
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posted 04-30-2002 04:33 PM
quote:
Originally posted by jkilroy:
It does sound like you are running lean, which may indicate that the intake is getting more air into the engine, all other things being equal. Did you try bumping the jets a couple sizes?
Couldn't it also mean he lost some signal to the carb which caused it to lean out? Or perhaps bumping the timing was pushing it to the verge of detonation in high gear, but helped out of the hole. In the days of the dual point dist Jenkins, Nicholson and others used to install a switch between the points. They ran the first three gears with both points, then shifted into high, switched off one set of points to shorten dwell angle and effectively retard the timing about three degrees so the car pulled harder in high gear!
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kid vishus
Gearhead Posts: 4538
From: middle of NC
Registered: Oct 2000
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posted 04-30-2002 07:16 PM
Today I think I figured out what the problem was. And lets just say, I aint happy and I aint talkin about it. 
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clevelandstyle
Gearhead Posts: 638
From: Connersville, IN
Registered: Jul 2001
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posted 04-30-2002 10:52 PM
Oh, Man.....that doesn't sound good. 
What's the problem? ------------------
Ben
Grabber Green '70 Mach I 351C 4V
Robbin Egg Blue '79 Fairmont 351C 4V
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steve'66
Gearhead Posts: 6522
From: Sonoma,CA,USA
Registered: Mar 2000
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posted 04-30-2002 10:55 PM
Come on Rob,Maybe the group can help.
SteveW
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kid vishus
Gearhead Posts: 4538
From: middle of NC
Registered: Oct 2000
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posted 05-01-2002 11:04 PM
quote:
Originally posted by clevelandstyle:
Oh, Man.....that doesn't sound good.
What's the problem?
Well, although I'm not sure why it did it, it sheared the pin in the cam again. This time it happened while it was idling in the garage.
Hopefully it didnt hurt near as much. Looks like its time to double pin the cam gear. (and I even ran a stupid solid flat tappet to keep this from happening. )
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clevelandstyle
Gearhead Posts: 638
From: Connersville, IN
Registered: Jul 2001
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posted 05-01-2002 11:35 PM
Dude, that sucks.
Even at idle you probably have some bent valves. ------------------
Ben
Grabber Green '70 Mach I 351C 4V
Robbin Egg Blue '79 Fairmont 351C 4V
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steve'66
Gearhead Posts: 6522
From: Sonoma,CA,USA
Registered: Mar 2000
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posted 05-01-2002 11:54 PM
Rob,The fact that your dist. drive gear looks ok and you had a bent valve are a couple clues. It's sure nice of it to let go in your garage at idle. Anyone have any ideas?
SteveW
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Larry Jennings
Gearhead Posts: 540
From: Redwood City, Ca. USA
Registered: Apr 2000
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posted 05-02-2002 12:02 AM
I'm just sorry to hear it .
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Clevo377
Gearhead Posts: 312
From: Blackburn, Victoria, Australia
Registered: Nov 2000
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posted 05-02-2002 05:42 AM
Rob, what spring pressure are you running?Paul
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kid vishus
Gearhead Posts: 4538
From: middle of NC
Registered: Oct 2000
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posted 05-02-2002 05:47 AM
quote:
Originally posted by clevelandstyle:
Dude, that sucks.
Even at idle you probably have some bent valves.
I ran a leakdown on it and found one bent for sure on the drivers side right away, so I went to the passenger side, and they all checked out ok. But that head is still going to come off.
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kid vishus
Gearhead Posts: 4538
From: middle of NC
Registered: Oct 2000
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posted 05-02-2002 05:55 AM
quote:
Originally posted by Clevo377:
Rob, what spring pressure are you running?Paul
They were 140# on the seat new. Generally figure 10% loss after they break in, so they realistically should be around 130#. I never even dis-assembled the heads from last year. I cleaned the mating surface, and bolted them on. Same camshaft I ended the year running also.
When the motor shut off while it was idling, it made a real loud snap. When I pulled the valve covers, I saw right away that 2 pushrods were gone on the drivers side, 1 intake, and on a different cylinder, 1 exhuast. Strange thing is, neither of those cylinders had bad leakdown. The cylinder with the bent valve was next to one that had a broken pushrod.
The next cam that goes in is going to have 2 pins in it. (even if it is just a solid flat tappet)
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Fordwiser
Gearhead Posts: 217
From: Metamora, Illinois
Registered: Dec 2000
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posted 05-02-2002 05:50 PM
I know we talked about this before, but are you positive the bolt isn't bottoming out in the cam and giving a false torque reading? I used the factory bolt for a C motor and even used the fuel pump eccentric and it still bottomed. I guess some aftermarket cams are not drilled and tapped as deep. I know it sucks, but I'm sure it would of been alot worse if the motor would of been wound out. Hang in there!!!!!!!!Roger
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kid vishus
Gearhead Posts: 4538
From: middle of NC
Registered: Oct 2000
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posted 05-02-2002 07:35 PM
quote:
Originally posted by Fordwiser:
I know we talked about this before, but are you positive the bolt isn't bottoming out in the cam and giving a false torque reading? I used the factory bolt for a C motor and even used the fuel pump eccentric and it still bottomed. I guess some aftermarket cams are not drilled and tapped as deep. Roger
Yep, I usually do check it, and this time I even had to add another thick washer to it to make it not bottom out.
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futurattraction
Gearhead Posts: 106
From: Iowa City, IA
Registered: Oct 2001
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posted 05-02-2002 08:47 PM
Sorry to hear about your situation Rob. As some of the others have said, at least it's good that it happened at low rpm. Didn't you have the front end off the motor this winter? It seems I recall reading that you said you'd bumped your compression up. Assuming I'm correct, there must not have been any indication that the pin was in the process of shearing. Sorry if I've not got my facts straight...
Scott
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kid vishus
Gearhead Posts: 4538
From: middle of NC
Registered: Oct 2000
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posted 05-02-2002 08:53 PM
quote:
Originally posted by futurattraction:
Didn't you have the front end off the motor this winter? It seems I recall reading that you said you'd bumped your compression up. Assuming I'm correct, there must not have been any indication that the pin was in the process of shearing. Sorry if I've not got my facts straight...
Scott
I had to change blocks. The block I finished last year running, the #2 main web was cracked. So we filled another block, punched it out, and put a new set of Arias pistons in it. I re-used last years camshaft, and the same 4v heads I had been running.
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68F100
Gearhead Posts: 2062
From: Fort Madison, Iowa USA - United We Stand
Registered: Oct 99
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posted 05-02-2002 09:29 PM
Man that sucks Rob. Hope the damage isn't too much. Don't give up, cuz I ain't seen you race yet.
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futurattraction
Gearhead Posts: 106
From: Iowa City, IA
Registered: Oct 2001
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posted 05-02-2002 11:43 PM
Same here, Rob. I want to see you run sometime this year (and meet you too). Just remember you've got lots of us here who are pulling for you and hoping your motor has sustained minimal damage.
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Butch Jennings
Gearhead Posts: 582
From: No. California
Registered: Apr 2000
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posted 05-03-2002 12:36 AM
Man, I feel for you Rob....you've had a tough run of bad luck the last couple of seasons.------------------
Butch
460 powered 1967 Comet Cyclone
10.271 @ 130.069
Butcher's Home Page
"Friends don't let friends drive Chevys"
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Rustang
Gearhead Posts: 471
From: Clarion PA
Registered: Nov 2000
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posted 05-03-2002 05:08 AM
Has anyone ever noticed that there seems to be alot of difference in cam pins?
I've seen some that are soft, bend easily, and can be cut with a file, while some are very hard and a file won't cut. Some of them are interference fit, sometimes they're very loose. Point is, these differences have to affect pin strength. ------------------
'68 mustang 351 clevor- 10.92@124
'67 Stang, 351W -11.18@118
'69 351C Torino-14.90@100
'78 Pickup 351W-15.56@88
'79 Pickup 460 ET=??
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