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Author
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Topic: Traction????
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H8CHEVY
Gearhead Posts: 276
From: Southern Cali
Registered: Jun 2000
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posted 04-14-2002 06:43 PM
   
well guys, got a question. My 66 has a mildly built 302.. somewhere near 400 horses, nothing big bye any means. I am running a toploader with a 9" rear using 3.50 trac-lok. Running the M/T Sportsman tires, but when at the track I launch at like 3,500 rpm and get a good amount of wheel spin. Tried airing the tires down to about 12psi adjusting the traction bars all the way up against the springs, inflating the right rear shock, deflating left. etc etc. Cant seem to get any hook up off the line, even with a good solid burn out. Can anyone give me any pointers on where to start??? different tires?? thanks alot.. ------------------
"In the wise words I was once told bye Jiggy"
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Rustang
Gearhead Posts: 471
From: Clarion PA
Registered: Nov 2000
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posted 04-14-2002 10:08 PM
Sounds like you've checked all the basics. I'd borrow a set of slicks from someone and see how that goes.
Ditch the sportsman tires and invest in a set of ET Streets, or else the BF Goodrich drag radial. ET streets are a glorified drag slick, and I've seen guys run in the 9's on a 275-60 drag radial (60' in the 1.40's!)------------------
'68 mustang 351 clevor- 10.92@124
'67 Stang, 351W -11.18@118
'69 351C Torino-14.90@100
'78 Pickup 351W-15.56@88
'79 Pickup 460 ET=??
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F551
Gearhead Posts: 174
From: Manitoba, Canada
Registered: Nov 2000
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posted 04-14-2002 10:14 PM
You're using air shocks?That might not be helping your situation. ------------------
Fred
68 Mustang 500CID/Powerglide - "No Tubs"
86 Mustang GT Cobra
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bluestreek
Gearhead Posts: 1289
From: Athens,GA
Registered: Jul 2001
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posted 04-14-2002 10:15 PM
Make sure your rear clutches aren't fried.. They'll wear out and cause only one wheel to spin. Also make sure the rear of the car isn't "hiking up" in the rear. If it is, your suspension is working against you. BS
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n2oMike
Gearhead Posts: 1547
From: Spencer, WV
Registered: Jan 2001
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posted 04-14-2002 11:05 PM
Traction Lock rear ends aren't that great for the strip. If one tire gets a little wetter than the other, you're in for a 'one wheel' burnout. They just aren't that tight.Sportsmans ARE indeed better than regular street tires, but are nothing compared to a real slick. On a scale of 1-10, they are probably a 6 or 7. The ET-Street is around a 9. Drag radials have comparitively stiff sidewalls, and don't work with stick shifts very well... I'd avoid those like the plague. You need ET-Streets or slicks. The Hoosier equivalent (Quick Time Pro's or their slicks) are also very good. Air shocks aren't drag shocks. If you aren't using wedges under the spring perches to adjust the snubber, and are just using that 'D' shaped clamp up front to 'pull' the snubber up, all you're doing is putting the suspension in a bind. That 'D' clamp is supposed to have slack. It's only purpose is to keep the front of the bar from digging into the pavement under hard braking. The 3.50 gear seems a bit high for the track. 4.11's are a PAIN on the highway, but should work better at the track with good tires. Better tires are your first move. Good Luck! ------------------
Mike Burch
66 mustang real street
302 4-speed 289 heads
10.63 @ 129.3
http://www.geocities.com/carbedstangs/cmml_mburch.html
http://www.fortunecity.com/silverstone/healey/367
http://www.mustangworks.com/cgi-bin/moi-display.cgi?220
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H8CHEVY
Gearhead Posts: 276
From: Southern Cali
Registered: Jun 2000
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posted 04-15-2002 01:24 AM
So mike on those rear traction bars, the local speed shop here should have those wedges??? also, can you guys recommend a good set of rear shocks?, to get rid of the air ones.. also would it help to raise the front up just a hair more to transfer weight a little better?? thanks alot!!!!
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n2oMike
Gearhead Posts: 1547
From: Spencer, WV
Registered: Jan 2001
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posted 04-15-2002 09:38 AM
quote:
Originally posted by H8CHEVY:
So mike on those rear traction bars, the local speed shop here should have those wedges??? also, can you guys recommend a good set of rear shocks?, to get rid of the air ones.. also would it help to raise the front up just a hair more to transfer weight a little better?? thanks alot!!!!
If they are the type that take the place of the leaf spring mounting plates, and bolt on with the axle housing's U-bolts, then yes, the traction bars will use wedges. The speed shop should either have them, or be able to get them. About any standard rear shock should be fine. If you want to get fancy, you can get a set of Rancho 9000 5-way adjustables. Compression is set, but the rebound (extension) dampening has 5 different adjustments. I believe the part number is #9204. Someone will probably correct me if I'm wrong. These are around $70 each. Stock shocks, which are much less expensive work just fine. I got my best 60ft with a set of cheap KYB's.  Raising the front end will aid load transfer, but creates more air drag down track. Weight transfer is a misleading term, the weight of each end of the car does not change, regardless of how it's driven. Good Luck! ------------------
Mike Burch
66 mustang real street
302 4-speed 289 heads
10.63 @ 129.3
http://www.geocities.com/carbedstangs/cmml_mburch.html
http://www.fortunecity.com/silverstone/healey/367
http://www.mustangworks.com/cgi-bin/moi-display.cgi?220
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Rustang
Gearhead Posts: 471
From: Clarion PA
Registered: Nov 2000
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posted 04-15-2002 06:22 PM
I don't see what's wrong with air shocks when compared to a standard shock. They are basically a standard shock with an air bag. I have race shocks on my '68, but I had fun tuning the leave with my '67 with the air shocks. I eventually got the thing to leave with both wheels dead level in the air by working with the air pressure. ------------------
'68 mustang 351 clevor- 10.92@124
'67 Stang, 351W -11.18@118
'69 351C Torino-14.90@100
'78 Pickup 351W-15.56@88
'79 Pickup 460 ET=??
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67Coupster
Gearhead Posts: 179
From: Fortson, GA, USA
Registered: Oct 2001
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posted 04-15-2002 08:52 PM
quote:
Originally posted by n2oMike:
If you want to get fancy, you can get a set of Rancho 9000 5-way adjustables. Compression is set, but the rebound (extension) dampening has 5 different adjustments.
I believe the Rancho's are adjustable 50/50 shocks with the adjustment affecting both compression and rebound. At least mine are. When I have them set on #1 I can compress it pretty easy and when on #5 I can't hardly budge it. ------------------
James
67 Coupe
393W, AFR 185, 4 Speed, 4.11 9 inch
7.09 @ 97MPH 1/8
1.55 60'
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steve'66
Gearhead Posts: 6522
From: Sonoma,CA,USA
Registered: Mar 2000
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posted 04-15-2002 09:25 PM
James is exactly right,The Ranchos are an off road shock with 50/50 dampening. Set on 5 they are harder than a whore's heart coming or going. SteveW
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n2oMike
Gearhead Posts: 1547
From: Spencer, WV
Registered: Jan 2001
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posted 04-15-2002 09:56 PM
I have a set of those Rancho shocks. I could have sworn their adjustment was just for rebound... but I could have been thinking about some others... Oh well, sorry guys. ------------------
Mike Burch
66 mustang real street
302 4-speed 289 heads
10.63 @ 129.3
http://www.geocities.com/carbedstangs/cmml_mburch.html
http://www.fortunecity.com/silverstone/healey/367
http://www.mustangworks.com/cgi-bin/moi-display.cgi?220
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H8CHEVY
Gearhead Posts: 276
From: Southern Cali
Registered: Jun 2000
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posted 04-15-2002 10:54 PM
Now would I set the right shock at 5 and the left shock a little less stiff then when I go to the track??
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steve'66
Gearhead Posts: 6522
From: Sonoma,CA,USA
Registered: Mar 2000
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posted 04-15-2002 10:58 PM
You can try it, but if the rear bounces up and down during the first 60', loosen them up a couple clicks. (to maybe 2 & 3)SteveW
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H8CHEVY
Gearhead Posts: 276
From: Southern Cali
Registered: Jun 2000
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posted 04-15-2002 11:00 PM
one last thing, is the 5 leaf rear springs too stiff to get a good launch or is that what I want??? thanks agian!
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steve'66
Gearhead Posts: 6522
From: Sonoma,CA,USA
Registered: Mar 2000
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posted 04-15-2002 11:06 PM
I think they're too stiff based on my experiences. How high does it sit in the rear? You want it fairly level so the rear can push it up while it's pulling the front end up to create weight transfer. If it starts out high how can the front climb higher and transfer the weight?SteveW
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H8CHEVY
Gearhead Posts: 276
From: Southern Cali
Registered: Jun 2000
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posted 04-16-2002 01:18 AM
I was just wondering if a "looser" spring would help it "squat" more, or if that would hurt me in the long run, giving to much play in the transfer...
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