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Author
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Topic: Locking out distributor advance
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Scott (69Mach)
Gearhead Posts: 796
From: Walnut Creek, CA USA
Registered: Jun 99
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posted 04-05-2002 09:27 PM
   
I'd like to lock out the advance on my accel dist. Do I just wire wrap the spring posts??? Do I tack weld the weights???Thanks, Scott
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steve'66
Gearhead Posts: 9533
From: Sonoma,CA,USA
Registered: Mar 2000
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posted 04-05-2002 09:55 PM
Scott,Isn't an Excell a stock rebuilt dist.? You can remove the weights and dril the plate and insert a screw to prevent the centrifical advance from moving. Then time it and you'll be "locked". Some people use epoxy instead of a screw.  SteveW
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Scott (69Mach)
Gearhead Posts: 796
From: Walnut Creek, CA USA
Registered: Jun 99
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posted 04-05-2002 10:33 PM
That's what I'd do if I could get the top all the way off. The mag sender is locked onto the shaft pretty good so it's tough to get to. I zip tied it for now just so I could keep on working on the timing system.It's not a stock dist, it is a magnetic setup. Thanks, Scott
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jsracingbbf
Gearhead Posts: 2954
From: Batesville,MS. , U.S.A.
Registered: Mar 2002
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posted 04-05-2002 11:25 PM
I took the weights out of mine and drilled a hole down through the plates and tapped it with a small tap then inserted a machine screw with a little red loctite. This worked great on my car. Good Luck!
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steve'66
Gearhead Posts: 9533
From: Sonoma,CA,USA
Registered: Mar 2000
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posted 04-06-2002 05:44 PM
quote:
Originally posted by Scott (69Mach):
The mag sender is locked onto the shaft pretty good so it's tough to get to.
Scott, If you can't get the sender off the shaft, then do it from the other direction. Take the gear off the bottom of the shaft and pull it out the top. SteveW
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Scott (69Mach)
Gearhead Posts: 796
From: Walnut Creek, CA USA
Registered: Jun 99
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posted 04-07-2002 12:41 PM
I knew there was a reason I hang out on this board.  Thanks Steve
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Scott (69Mach)
Gearhead Posts: 796
From: Walnut Creek, CA USA
Registered: Jun 99
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posted 04-07-2002 11:06 PM
FYI, I pulled the gear and bushing off the bottom and had easy access to the weights. Drilled them out and tack welded the plates together. That ought to keep things from moving around...
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steve'66
Gearhead Posts: 9533
From: Sonoma,CA,USA
Registered: Mar 2000
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posted 04-08-2002 10:16 AM
Cool Scott, That ought to do it!
SteveW
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Just Strokin
Gearhead Posts: 754
From: Tuscaloosa, Alabama
Registered: Dec 2001
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posted 04-08-2002 10:19 AM
The mag sender shouldn't have to be pulled off. If you take the little stuffing pad out of the center of the shaft where the rotor slips on, you will see a small clip down inside the shaft. This is how to remove it on a stock Ford distributor.
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68bbstang
Journeyman Posts: 29
From:
Registered: Sep 2001
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posted 04-08-2002 03:10 PM
I really have to admit my ignorance here. What is the advantage of locking out the mechanical advance? My FE has a 4150 with a Proform carb body, so I don't have vacuum advance any longer. There's no way I can jack up the initial very high, so (again) what is the advantage?
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Scott (69Mach)
Gearhead Posts: 796
From: Walnut Creek, CA USA
Registered: Jun 99
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posted 04-08-2002 07:26 PM
I'm locking it out because I'll control advance and retard using an MSD timing control box. All I need from the distributor is the timing signal. The box determines advance based on the slope I program into it. It also retards on stratup and when I squeeze it so it doesn't detonate. Nothing like a little nitrous to clean out the pipes.
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steve'66
Gearhead Posts: 9533
From: Sonoma,CA,USA
Registered: Mar 2000
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posted 04-08-2002 11:58 PM
The other reason for locking out a distributor is for a race car that never sees anything under 3500 rpm with a load on the engine. They idle crisp at full advance and you don't have to wonder if the timing advanced or not. Some use a timing retard to start, and others use a seperate ignition switch that they can turn on after the engine is spining on the starter. Our '66 has a stall of over 4000 rpm and it's fine with the timing locked out. Idles great too,  SteveW
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