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Author
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Topic: What kind of 60's are you getting?
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65_289
Gearhead Posts: 396
From:
Registered: Jul 2001
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posted 03-17-2002 05:12 PM
   
Like the title says, lemme hear your 60' times, and preferably your mods too. I am trying to figure out what I might be able to do.
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1965 Coupe, Tremec 3550, Steeda Tri-Ax, Cable Clutch conversion, 9" N case, 4.11's, Detroit Soft Locker, 31 spline Moser axles, Daytona pinion support,, Biondo Line Lock, Ford XB3 longblock, x303 heads, B-Cam, 9:1 comp., Tri-y headers, cut-outs, Ford Racing high-torque mini-starter, Pertronix Ignitor & Flamethrower coil, 650 double pumper, Edelbrock RPM intake, K&N air, Holley electric fuel pump & AFPR, dual 2-chamber Flowmasters, Summit 3-way fronts, Rancho 5-way rears, 5-leaf springs, Chrome Export Brace, Griffen Radiator, Comp. Eng. subs.
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capri man
Gearhead Posts: 1267
From: doerun, ga.
Registered: Nov 2000
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posted 03-17-2002 05:33 PM
you can find my junk here!http://prestage.com/site/site_display.asp?SiteID=141 ------------------
mike r
racing is real
everything else is just a game.
81 capri-7.56 @88mph 1/8
1.56 60 ft.
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65_289
Gearhead Posts: 396
From:
Registered: Jul 2001
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posted 03-17-2002 05:35 PM
quote:
Originally posted by capri man:
you can find my junk here!http://prestage.com/site/site_display.asp?SiteID=141
DAMN that's quick! Is it much easier to get your car to hook than a leaf spring car?
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Dave_C
Gearhead Posts: 432
From: Gadsden, Al
Registered: Aug 99
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posted 03-17-2002 05:54 PM
My 69 will cut consistent 1.45 60's, but that's with the ladder bars/coil overs and big tires. That's running 6.80's @ 100 1/8 mile (equal to 10.70's @ 125 1/4) Before the backhalf it had the original leaf springs, Cal-Tracs, Rancho shocks and 28X10 Hoosier slicks. It's best was 1.50 60 ft running 7.0's at 96. Most of the time the 60's were 1.52-1.53 The back-half gained me about .15 or so. Swapping the C-6 out for the Powerglide got me another .10-.12, the same amount I lost when I went from a C-4 to to the C-6. The key is consistency. The tracks I go to tend to not be prepped all that well. The little tires worked great on a good track, but late at night when the track gets slick it tended to spin. Usually about the time the money rounds started. That was the whole reason for the back-half. Now it's way over-tired, but will hook anywhere, anytime. Later, David Cole
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kid vishus
Gearhead Posts: 1994
From: huh?? what? who? ME!?!?!?!
Registered: Oct 2000
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posted 03-17-2002 06:57 PM
I'm betting you're loking more for the street/strip cars on this question, but I'll answer anyways.My racecar is backhalved, ladder bars with coilovers, and 32x14 slicks. It normally will 60' between 1.35-1.37  , with a best of 1.344 (that I feel is legitimate, it went 1.322 over thanksgiving but I question the timing system on that one). I am serioulsy considering putting a powerglide in it later this yr to try and calm it down some, and that will slow the 60's back down.
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67Coupster
Journeyman Posts: 67
From: Fortson, GA, USA
Registered: Oct 2001
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posted 03-17-2002 07:48 PM
Well since that's the area I'm working on I guess it would be nice to see what everyones doing, good question. Here's what I have:67 Coupe, 6-point cage, electric fan, 393W, AFR185 Heads, Victor Jr W/Holley 850DP,MSD 6AL, 1 3/4 long tubes, 3" Dr Gas X-pipe w/flowmasters & turndowns,wide ratio toploader, Ram Long style 11" clutch, Lakewood scatter-shield, 9" w/4.11 gears and a Powertrax No-slip Locker, skinnies in the front, MT ET Streets 28 by 12.5 out back, 90/10's, Rancho 9000's and Cal-tracs. Current 60' hovers around 1.66 to 1.70 with the ET between 7.34 to 7.39 at 96 MPH. ------------------
James
67 Coupe
393W, AFR 185, 4 Speed, 4.11 9 inch
7.34 @ 96MPH 1/8
1.66 60'
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Moneymaker
Administrator Posts: 11493
From: Lyons, IL, USA
Registered: May 99
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posted 03-18-2002 03:57 PM
1.38 WITH leaf springs.  ------------------
Alex Denysenko
Co-Administrator and Moderator/ non 65-66 Mustang owner sensitivity co-ordinator NHRA/IHRA/SRA member
NHRA and IHRA SS/LA National Record Holder '00, '01, & '02
Fleet of FoMoCo products including 88 ASC McLaren Mustang #28
Part time secret agent license #0089
US Class Nationals link
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Butch Jennings
Gearhead Posts: 340
From: California
Registered: Apr 2000
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posted 03-18-2002 05:52 PM
My Comet has gone a best of 1.43 with leaf springs and slapper bars at 3300lbs....1.46 is more the norm.------------------
Butch
460 powered 1967 Comet Cyclone
10.271 @ 130.069
Butcher's Home Page
"Friends don't let friends drive Chevys"
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chips67
Gearhead Posts: 537
From: louisville, ky, usa
Registered: Jul 2001
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posted 03-18-2002 06:22 PM
slapper bars still work. im getting 1.80-1.90's but im dealing with a serious pegleg and gas charged stock replacement shocks.------------------
67 coupe, 650dp and rpm intake on 5.0 with afr 165 heads, 4 speed, 4.11's.....best so far is [email protected] in 1/8 mile with 1.79 60ft. time.
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kid vishus
Gearhead Posts: 1994
From: huh?? what? who? ME!?!?!?!
Registered: Oct 2000
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posted 03-18-2002 07:00 PM
Now that I have thought about it a little while, when I was racing my 70, it ran mid to high 1.60's with a best of 1.59. It was a leaf spring/slapper bar car that was street driven alot.
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n2oMike
Gearhead Posts: 719
From: Spencer, WV
Registered: Jan 2001
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posted 03-18-2002 07:14 PM
Mine has gone a best of 1.43 with leaf springs on a 28x9 slick... but it takes a well prepped track to make it happen!Good Luck! ------------------
Mike Burch
66 mustang real street
302 4-speed 289 heads
10.63 @ 129.3
http://www.geocities.com/carbedstangs/cmml_mburch.html
http://www.fortunecity.com/silverstone/healey/367
http://www.mustangworks.com/cgi-bin/moi-display.cgi?220
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steve'66
Gearhead Posts: 3653
From: Sonoma,CA,USA
Registered: Mar 2000
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posted 03-18-2002 08:15 PM
quote:
Originally posted by n2oMike:
Mine has gone a best of 1.43 with leaf springs on a 28x9 slick... but it takes a well prepped track to make it happen!
And a healthy shot of "juice"
Melissa's best with the et streets and the 351w was 1.70s if the tires could slip a little and 1.83 if they hooked hard (a bog).
I think the 408w will pull right through that "bog" thing and with the 10" et drags we're hoping to do better. Still with leaf springs and slapper bars.
SteveW
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R&J MOTORSPORTS
Journeyman Posts: 47
From: Tampa,Fl.
Registered: Aug 2000
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posted 03-18-2002 09:02 PM
Finally in the 1.40's. Best of 1.484, 1964 Comet SS/MA with leaf springs.------------------
Joe Strunk
NHRA SS/MA 2890
1964 SS/MA Comet
1965 PRO-Street Fairlane
1966 Fairlane Conv.
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F551
Gearhead Posts: 124
From: Manitoba, Canada
Registered: Nov 2000
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posted 03-18-2002 11:05 PM
Best of 1.42 - consistent 1.45 @ 10.5 ET.12 X 30 slicks with good old Ford 5 leaf springs with CalTracs and Rancho shocks.
CE front springs with CE 3 way shocks.
500cid with Powerglide/transbrake and a 4.30 gear. Real hard on tires! * I wanna grow up to be as fast as Alex! ------------------
Fred
68 Mustang 500CID/Powerglide - "No Tubs"
86 Mustang GT Cobra
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Hans olsson
Gearhead Posts: 145
From: Eskilstuna Sweden
Registered: Apr 2000
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posted 03-19-2002 06:36 AM
1.59 with 29.5-9-15 M/T bias slicks.Leaf springs and koni spa-1 front and rear.3500 lbs,5400 slip rpm,2.46 low gear,and 5.43 rear gear. ------------------
- 71 Mach1 351c
- E/SA 11.89-110
- F/SA 11.92-110
[This message has been edited by Hans olsson (edited 03-19-2002).]
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Capri
Gearhead Posts: 1163
From: Lyons, ILL, USA
Registered: May 99
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posted 03-19-2002 11:44 AM
1.600 best with my car at 3320 lbs normally 1.62-1.65 stock 5.0 rear suspension, lakewood traction bars, and Hal single adjustable shocks on the back. Koni front struts also single adjustable. 28.5X9 Phoenix slicks.Tony
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TomP
Gearhead Posts: 3609
From: Delta BC Canada
Registered: Dec 99
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posted 03-19-2002 01:46 PM
1.365 best, average is more like 1.42 with tire spin.
car is 3140lbs, 54.5% front weight
10.5 x 29.5 slicks, 4.57 gear, 4 speed with 2.93 low ,10.5" McLeod soft lock sintered iron clutch, launching about 6400rpm
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Ryan Wilke
Gearhead Posts: 607
From: Stanton, Michigan
Registered: Oct 2000
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posted 03-19-2002 05:07 PM
Those sure are some nice times, TomP!!1) Is that with your 427", '64 Fairlane? 2) Is that back-halved, caged, coilovers? 3) Is your 2.93 low gear in a big-spline Toploader or some other trans? 4) How do you like that McLeod clutch? 5) Is the 3140# with or without you in it? Ryan
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chips67
Gearhead Posts: 537
From: louisville, ky, usa
Registered: Jul 2001
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posted 03-19-2002 09:43 PM
was looking at that sintered iron clutch disk as an option. just wonder if it would slip too much for my setup and would it be steetable?------------------
67 coupe, 650dp and rpm intake on 5.0 with afr 165 heads, 4 speed, 4.11's.....best so far is [email protected] in 1/8 mile with 1.79 60ft. time.
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Rory McNeil
Gearhead Posts: 557
From: Surrey, B.C. Canada
Registered: Nov 2000
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posted 03-20-2002 04:05 AM
Chips67, I also run the McLeod "soft lok" sintered iron clutch, & I don`t think it would be any good on the street. If you don`t run a lot of static pressure, it will slip at lower speeds, and would be VERY abrupt if you did run high pressure. On my car, if I`m cruising up the return road, warming the car up in the morning, if I`m going, say, 20 mph in 3rd gear, & lean into the throttle, the clutch will slip, allowing the engine to flare up. But dumping the clutch at 6000 RPM, everything works fine. The clutch requires the centrifugal force caused by RPM to add pressure to the clutch, which can be adjusted by adding weight to the levers on the pressure plate. Even though I haven`t played with adding weight to the centrifugal, there is some built into the pressure plate. The clutch comes with a pretty elaborate operators manual. I love the soft lok in my race car, but I`m too old to put up with that kind of behaviour on a street car.
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78 Fairmont 428 4 speed 10.20@130mph
80 Fairmont 302 5 speed 12.8@105mph
85 Mustang NHRA Stocker under construction, 302 5 speed
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chips67
Gearhead Posts: 537
From: louisville, ky, usa
Registered: Jul 2001
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posted 03-20-2002 10:38 AM
sounds like another one of those race only parts i will avoid. i really enjoy the challenge of making a streetable car quick but not at the expense of being streetable. thanks rory.------------------
67 coupe, 650dp and rpm intake on 5.0 with afr 165 heads, 4 speed, 4.11's.....best so far is [email protected] in 1/8 mile with 1.79 60ft. time.
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n2oMike
Gearhead Posts: 719
From: Spencer, WV
Registered: Jan 2001
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posted 03-20-2002 10:55 AM
I use this setup as well... and as long as the preload on the pressure plate is set fairly high, it works great on the street. It is MUCH smoother taking off than my old Ram 900 disk. It can be lightened up at the track for optimum (slight clutch slipping) launches. However, adjusting is a pain. You have to drill a hole in the bellhousing, and have someone turn the engine by hand as you locate and turn each of the six allen head adjusting screws. It's a REAL pain if the engine and headers are hot. :eek!: I like it... It's just a PITA to adjust. Good Luck! ------------------
Mike Burch
66 mustang real street
302 4-speed 289 heads
10.63 @ 129.3
http://www.geocities.com/carbedstangs/cmml_mburch.html
http://www.fortunecity.com/silverstone/healey/367
http://www.mustangworks.com/cgi-bin/moi-display.cgi?220
IP: Logged |
Butch Jennings
Gearhead Posts: 340
From: California
Registered: Apr 2000
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posted 03-20-2002 12:57 PM
Tom, Rory, Mike, How often do you guys have to throw discs at that clutch setup? Is it a single disc unit? ------------------
Butch
460 powered 1967 Comet Cyclone
10.271 @ 130.069
Butcher's Home Page
"Friends don't let friends drive Chevys"
IP: Logged |
n2oMike
Gearhead Posts: 719
From: Spencer, WV
Registered: Jan 2001
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posted 03-20-2002 02:16 PM
I have the RAM equivalent of the McLeod Soft-Loc unit. Both use an adjustable pressure plate with a single sintered iron disk. The preload pressure is adjusted with six allen head adjusters that run setscrews down against the clutch springs. The centrifugal is adjusted by bolting weights to the ends of the three clutch 'fingers'. You have to drill a hole in the bellhousing to get to the allen head adjusters, and if you want to adjust the centrifugal, a BIG hole will have to be cut in the BH to get at the weights with a wrench, or the tranny will need popped out. McLeod is the top manufacturer. The RAM unit is fine, but McLeod really seems to have their ducks in a row.My clutch is set up fairly tight. It has two years of (mostly street) use on it, and still looks good. One that was set up loose wouldn't last quite as long. They wear great, and the pedal effort feels like some sort of import or something. You can easily push in the clutch with your hand. Those old "high performance" pressure plates that use organic disks had pressures around 2800lbs. I run my sintered iron setup on the street at around 900 or so. These clutches work with heat. They slip a little until they get some heat in them, then they hold great. If I take the mustang out on the road... before it gets warmed up, you can goose the throttle in high gear and the rpm's will go up a tad before the clutch grabs. It's no probmem though. Sometimes taking off from a light, it will let out a little metallic squeak as it grabs. They might be a little bit of a pain for an every day driver, but for a weekend hotrod, it's well below my PITA threshold. It's not nearly as bad as dealing with a really loose torque converter on the street. Good Luck! ------------------
Mike Burch
66 mustang real street
302 4-speed 289 heads
10.63 @ 129.3
http://www.geocities.com/carbedstangs/cmml_mburch.html
http://www.fortunecity.com/silverstone/healey/367
http://www.mustangworks.com/cgi-bin/moi-display.cgi?220 [This message has been edited by n2oMike (edited 03-20-2002).]
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Rory McNeil
Gearhead Posts: 557
From: Surrey, B.C. Canada
Registered: Nov 2000
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posted 03-20-2002 02:36 PM
Mike, I adjust my pressure plate without drilling a hole in my scattershield. Before I put everything in the car for the first time,I found that by removing the upper right trans to bellhousing bolt, I could get a long "ball end" allen socket into the adjusting screws, thru the bolt hole. It does go in on a bit of an angle, but the ball end acts like a universal joint. The trans tunnel on a FOX body Fairmont, Mustang is very snug, so I had to trim the length of the hex portion of the socket a bit, & also, with a die grinder, put a small "dip" in the side of the bolt boss on the trans case, to allow the socket to rotate without binding up on the case. Although drilling a hole in the scattershield WILL work, it will likely render your scattershield unable to be recertified. For adjusting the clutch, I find that using a long (3 feet or more) 3/8`s extension allows you to work away from the headers. Also, I marked the damper in the 6 spots where the adjusting screws line up with the bolt hole, so I can turn the engine until one lines up, then turn it to the next mark after making that adjustment. Once I have the car jacked up, I can adjust the clutch in less than 15 minutes by myself, quicker if I have a helper up top to turn the engine over.
Butch, on my car, I will be pulling the clutch out for the first time since I went from a C6 to the Jerico, 3 years ago. As long as you don`t stay in the throttle with the clutch slipping noticably, I`d say 150-200 runs shouldn`t be out of the question. One thing I have found is that you need to keep an eye on clutch pedal free play, since the disc does wear a smidge on each pass, I have been caught unaware, only to get clutch slipage in 3rd or 4th gear, due to insufficent freeplay.------------------
78 Fairmont 428 4 speed 10.20@130mph
80 Fairmont 302 5 speed 12.8@105mph
85 Mustang NHRA Stocker under construction, 302 5 speed
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TomP
Gearhead Posts: 3609
From: Delta BC Canada
Registered: Dec 99
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posted 03-20-2002 04:12 PM
quote:
Originally posted by Ryan Wilke:
Those sure are some nice times, TomP!!1) Is that with your 427", '64 Fairlane? 2) Is that back-halved, caged, coilovers? 3) Is your 2.93 low gear in a big-spline Toploader or some other trans? 4) How do you like that McLeod clutch? 5) Is the 3140# with or without you in it? Ryan
ahhh,it's only OK, wish it was a bit better  In order
1)454" 427, has a 428 crank
2)stock wheelwells widened to frame, 4 point rollbar (one sidebar,one backbrace,J-shaped loop)stock T-bolt type traction bars,stock leaf springs and homemade pivot/floater.
3)It's a Jerico, big Ford spline tho
4)Doesn't pitch linings off like the stock clutches would, light pedal, i made the mistake of running it too light at first and warping it early.
5)with me in it... a guy doesn't always really wanna say how fat he is, but around 2950 empty
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Ryan Wilke
Gearhead Posts: 607
From: Stanton, Michigan
Registered: Oct 2000
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posted 03-20-2002 05:07 PM
TomP,
SOUNDS LIKE A HE**VA FUN RIDE!!!!!!
Thanks for the info on your package! Good Luck! Ryan
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