Good Luck!

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Mike Burch
66 mustang real street
302 4-speed 289 heads
10.63 @ 129.3
http://www.geocities.com/carbedstangs/cmml_mburch.html
http://www.fortunecity.com/silverstone/healey/367
http://www.mustangworks.com/cgi-bin/moi-display.cgi?220

Notice how many drag cars will only pull the left front wheel or if it pulls both the left front goes higher. When it does that it puts more weight on the wheel that is diagonal from it, the right rear. It's from the torque reaction on the rear axle. If you have an adjustable setup like ladder bars, 4 link, etc, you can adjust it out of it.

If it's not causing a handling problem I wouldn't worry about it. Just rotate the slicks every 25 passes or so to even out the wear.

Later,

The left side of the car lifting is caused by the axle housing driving downwards,
thats why the left rises and the right side squats. The left tire has more grip and tries to push the car forward harder, the suspension geometery usually means the extended left side is further forward driving the car to the right. Its also why the left axle breaks first.

Take all the shocks out and this will become readily apparent

quote:

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Originally posted by TomP:

Take all the shocks out and this will become readily apparent

[This message has been edited by TomP (edited 03-11-2002).]

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thanks but no thanks tom!! hee hee
in my silly little brain, it seems like there would be more weight on the right pushing it down on the track harder, thus more smoke and more heat. thanks

That didn't come out the exact way I meant it too. A correctly setup car will show more weight on the right rear. According to Dave Morgan (Doorslammer's The Chassis Book) you want the right rear to weigh more to offset the torque reaction. It will allow the car to go straight if this is done.

My ladder bar setup has just enough preload to make the right rear weigh more when scaled. The car goes very straight on the launch. I had to set it up that way. Can't steer with front wheels in the air. The preload does make it drift slightly to the left downtrack, but that is easier to correct than going right off the line.

And my right rear slick does get hotter than the left.

Later,

You can try to compensate for this in a few ways or a combo of them. Even thought on the pricey side, a good set of scales to weight the car on all 4 corners can help a lot in chassis tunning.

1) Add a leaf to the right rear springs if leafs or a large spring coil spring if coils

2) add adjustable shocks, soften the left shock rebound and tighten the right rear shock compression.

3) if coil-over shocks with adjustable spring pads, preload the right rear shock.

A good investment is the Book mentioned above written by Dave Morgan.

Always make sure to get both tires wet, then pull completely out of the water before beginning the burnout. Sometimes it's hard to see, and water gets splashed up past where it is supposed to be.. so sometimes you get crooked burnouts and uneven tire temps.

You might want to check several runs, and see if it heats the tires unevenly on a consistent basis. If it does, you might look into the suspension.

Good Luck!