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Author
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Topic: My $100 SVO block
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Rustang
Gearhead Posts: 880
From: Clarion PA
Registered: Nov 2000
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posted 02-07-2002 10:38 PM
 
I just scored a Ford Motorsport block tonight for $100.00!  This is part of the parts I looked at the other night that included that boogered up crank I mentioned in a previous post. When I looked at the crank, the kid had some 4 bolt main caps too. I just assumed that these were aftermarket caps for converting a windsor block, but the closer I looked at them, the more I thought they might be off a SVO block. I was even more convinced when I asked him if the block had spacers to accomodate the 2.75" crank and he said no!  I asked him what he did with the block and he had just thrown it in the scrap bin at work last week. Yesterday he called me and said he dug it out of the scrap bin. I went over and looked at the block. It has been weld repaired at the pan rail, and one cylinder has a crack about midway up. The lifter bores had been bushed, and the block number is E6ZM-6015-G351. I figure even if the block can't be fixed I can still get a little cash back from the splayed caps!------------------
'68 mustang 351 clevor- 10.92@124
'67 Stang, 351W -11.18@118
'69 351C Torino-14.90@100
'78 Pickup 351W-15.56@88
'79 Pickup 460 ET=??
http://www.rustang-racing.cityslide.com/contents/contents.cfm/712231
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kid vishus
Gearhead Posts: 7251
From: middle of NC
Registered: Oct 2000
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posted 02-08-2002 09:18 AM
Unless something more drastic is wrong, like a cracked main web, I would sleeve it and run it. I had a factory 2 bolt cleveland block I JB welded part of the pain rail back together and never had any problems with.
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SG236
Gearhead Posts: 416
From: Jasper, TN, USA
Registered: Dec 2000
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posted 02-08-2002 09:33 AM
Dang Stang! Good deal!
Russ Hood
sg236
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TomP
Gearhead Posts: 6376
From: Delta BC Canada
Registered: Dec 99
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posted 02-08-2002 09:46 PM
what about a 427 block, cracked up the front main web from the cam to the crank journals. right along the oil hole. I'm tempted to run it without fixing it, but i suppose there must be a way to fix it without making more of a mess.
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Larry Jennings
Gearhead Posts: 540
From: Redwood City, Ca. USA
Registered: Apr 2000
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posted 02-08-2002 10:25 PM
Tom! Don't you ever listen to Red Green, the fix for the block is in every show !
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Rustang
Gearhead Posts: 880
From: Clarion PA
Registered: Nov 2000
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posted 02-09-2002 11:11 AM
Does anybody know where there might be a list of motorsport blocks to tell what I've got? All I know is the part number listed above and that it is a 9.5 deck.------------------
'68 mustang 351 clevor- 10.92@124
'67 Stang, 351W -11.18@118
'69 351C Torino-14.90@100
'78 Pickup 351W-15.56@88
'79 Pickup 460 ET=??
http://www.rustang-racing.cityslide.com/contents/contents.cfm/712231
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Mpcoluv
Gearhead Posts: 1421
From: Charlotte NC usa
Registered: Apr 2001
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posted 02-09-2002 08:23 PM
quote:
Originally posted by Rustang:
Does anybody know where there might be a list of motorsport blocks to tell what I've got? All I know is the part number listed above and that it is a 9.5 deck.
The G351 is a dry sump only non-siameese bore 9.2" block with nodular iron caps. The R351 is the siameese version. The S351 is the 9.5" dry sump siameese bore block.
The V351 is the siameese bore wet sump 9.2" , and the W351 is the 9.5" wet sump block.
The "sportsman" blocks are B, C, and D351.
The D is 9.5", the B and C351 blocks are 9.2" with the "C" having spacers to run the Clev. 2.75" mains.
The Non siameese blocks will only go to 4.060. The locals say that the Siameese versions will go to 4.155 or more. $.185 with a sonic check.
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Rustang
Gearhead Posts: 880
From: Clarion PA
Registered: Nov 2000
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posted 02-09-2002 09:24 PM
MP...
thanks for the reply. However, I looked at an old motorsport catalog and saw the G351 and that it was a 9.2 block. Problem is, I measured my block today and it is definitely a 9.5 decker?!?!------------------
'68 mustang 351 clevor- 10.92@124
'67 Stang, 351W -11.18@118
'69 351C Torino-14.90@100
'78 Pickup 351W-15.56@88
'79 Pickup 460 ET=??
http://www.rustang-racing.cityslide.com/contents/contents.cfm/712231
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Rustang
Gearhead Posts: 880
From: Clarion PA
Registered: Nov 2000
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posted 02-09-2002 09:43 PM
One other question...what's the difference between a wet and dry sump block?------------------
'68 mustang 351 clevor- 10.92@124
'67 Stang, 351W -11.18@118
'69 351C Torino-14.90@100
'78 Pickup 351W-15.56@88
'79 Pickup 460 ET=??
http://www.rustang-racing.cityslide.com/contents/contents.cfm/712231
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Mpcoluv
Gearhead Posts: 1421
From: Charlotte NC usa
Registered: Apr 2001
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posted 02-10-2002 08:29 AM
As for the 9.5" , maybe someone got an unmachined casting, and machined it for 9.5".
Here in Charlotte you see unmachined intakes occasionally. With Ford, who knows?
The dry sump block has no provisions for an oil pump in the pan.
I have seen people run a wet pan and a single stage external pump on these blocks.
The G351 is most often used as the NASCAR block.
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Rustang
Gearhead Posts: 880
From: Clarion PA
Registered: Nov 2000
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posted 02-10-2002 03:42 PM
I checked out the block and it will definitely accept a stock style oil pump. I also noticed that the oil port where the pump bolts to is threaded. Also, where normally the oil pressure sensor would mount on a stock block, this port is absolutely huge. Looks like about a 3/8" or 1/2" NPT port. I also noticed some numbers that are stamped on the front of the block near the top of #1 cylinder. The number is 5G3979. I realize this number is probably meaningless, but maybe someone would recognize what it means.
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