|
Author
|
Topic: 289 lower end rebuild suggestions
|
Bloose
Gearhead Posts: 796
From: Milwaukee, WI
Registered: Dec 2001
|
posted 01-08-2002 08:46 PM
   
Hello all. I have located and purchased a set of new E7TE heads for my 289. Origanally I was going to leave the lower end alone and just do the upper end. I changed my mind and decided to do the whole thing while I had it out.The only thing is it is getting more expensive than I was hoping it would get. The motor was in pretty good shape though some of the lower main bearings were starting to show copper. I ordered a set of Keith Black KB-116's today which should put me at 9.5~9.8:1. I called around today and to do the lower end including balance, reconing the rods, cutting the crank, and boring, the machine work is between $600 and $700. And that is before the parts. I paid around $300 for pistons and rings today. So, my question is this. How important is it that I balance the crank assy ($175). Also, my crank is .0001~.0004 under the minimum in the FSM. Do I need to have it cut .010 under or should I just polish it and run standard bearings. The cost to cut it is around $110. I know the BEST thing to do would be go all out and just have it all done. But, like I said this is getting expensive. And those two things are almost $300 alone. Let me have it, what do you think. Thanks,
B-loose
IP: Logged |
Mark T 7724
Gearhead Posts: 262
From: Palmdale, CA
Registered: Nov 2000
|
posted 01-08-2002 09:53 PM
I don't know where your located at but you should be able to have the crank cut for around $75.00 and my normal "Balance" guy only charges me $85.00~$100.00 for balance on a street motor, You should shop around for another Machine Shop. BTW I can't tell you what my "Race Motor" cost to balance, My Wife may read this;D
IP: Logged |
Moneymaker
Administrator Posts: 27499
From: Lyons, IL, USA
Registered: May 99
|
posted 01-09-2002 12:42 PM
You should always balance ANY high performance engine. Normal balancing costs hover between $100 to $125 without heavy metal.  ------------------
Alex Denysenko
Co-Administrator and Moderator
NHRA/IHRA/SRA member
NHRA and IHRA SS/LA National Record Holder '00, '01, & '02
Fleet of FoMoCo products including 88 ASC McLaren Mustang #28
Part time secret agent license #0089
US Class Nationals link
IP: Logged |
Bloose
Gearhead Posts: 796
From: Milwaukee, WI
Registered: Dec 2001
|
posted 01-09-2002 08:03 PM
I called around for prices again today. One place I called charges by the hour to balance the crank and they said it should take around 2.5 hours. They get $53 per hour. That was about the cheapest, everyone else is about $175 before heavy metal. I wish I could find someone in the Milwaukee WI to do machine work for the prices you list. You would think with a recession they would drop their prices. Maybe they raised them to make up for the lower volume. Who knows. Still woundering if I need to cut the crank though. Here are the cheapest prices I got so far, Clean block and install cam bearings $85
Bore .030 over $100
Recondition rods and install bolts $72
ARP rod bolts (from Summit Racing) $40
Grind Crank $95
Balance $145appx
Rod and Main bearing $50 appx Total $587 The highest I got was $675 but the place was recomended to me from more than one person. Thanks,
B-loose
IP: Logged |
SteveLaRiviere
Administrator Posts: 45869
From: Saco, Maine
Registered: May 99
|
posted 01-09-2002 08:17 PM
When I look at a crank I look at how straight the journals are and the finish. If it mikes straight and there's no scarring that you can hang a fingernail on, you are ok provided you can still keep the oil clearance what you want them to be. Keep in mind that this is a foolish area to penny-pinch. Go with painted valve covers and used intakes and carbs if you must, but don't cut corners on your bottom end. ------------------
'70 Mustang Mach 1 M code 351C 4V/FMX/3.25 open
'72 Mustang Sprint Coupe 351C 4V/FMX/4.30 Trac Lok
'94 F-150 XL 5.8L/E4OD/3.55 Limited Slip
'97 Probe GTS 2.5L DOHC
IP: Logged |
V8 Thumper
Gearhead Posts: 4681
From: Phoenix, Arizona
Registered: Dec 2001
|
posted 01-09-2002 10:32 PM
---------------------------------------------
[QUOTE]Originally posted by SteveLaRiviere:Keep in mind that this is a foolish area to penny-pinch. Go with painted valve covers and used intakes and carbs if you must, but don't cut corners on your bottom end. --------------------------------------------- That's a gadzillion dollars' worth of free advice.
IP: Logged |
iamblackjack
Gearhead Posts: 219
From: A small town in South East Texas ............Houston.
Registered: Jan 2002
|
posted 01-10-2002 02:13 AM
Thanks for asking that question B-loose.
I was facing a very simular dilima.------------------
Pair of '65s from Texas
IP: Logged |
Moneymaker
Administrator Posts: 27499
From: Lyons, IL, USA
Registered: May 99
|
posted 01-10-2002 11:51 AM
Ditto! ------------------
Alex Denysenko
Co-Administrator and Moderator
NHRA/IHRA/SRA member
NHRA and IHRA SS/LA National Record Holder '00, '01, & '02
Fleet of FoMoCo products including 88 ASC McLaren Mustang #28
Part time secret agent license #0089
US Class Nationals link
IP: Logged |
Bloose
Gearhead Posts: 796
From: Milwaukee, WI
Registered: Dec 2001
|
posted 01-10-2002 08:51 PM
I know, I know. Like I said the simple answer is just do it all. I guess I just need to bite the bullit. I just wasn't ready for $700 from the machine shop.I had a machinist at work polish the crank and mic it up again. The cranks looks really good and is actually only .0001~.0000 under. So it looks like I should be able to save the $100 for that. I will have to see how the clearances look. Thanks for the help,
B-loose
IP: Logged |
Mustangsandmore Forums
