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Author
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Topic: 351c torker intake?
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DRAGSTANG351
Journeyman Posts: 67
From: FLORIDA
Registered: Dec 2001
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posted 01-07-2002 11:31 AM
   
has anyone ever epoxied the torker intake runners to match the m.p.g. intake port plates and had good results? i currently have the plates on my 351c but have not raised the intake runner floor, which means my intake flow is hitting a wall of port plate, and i'm sure this would create poor flow, should i even try to epoxy the intake or just get the port plates off? i would think if everything is epoxy matched up well with the port plate that the transition from intake too the head would be better than no plate at all because of the higher floor, if anyone has some good idea's on what i should do feel free to reply it's a 1/8 mile strip car, current e.t. 7.98 @ 90.30 85gt 351c 4v cc heads, c4 w/3500- 4000 stall 4.10 gears, i need more gear like 4.56 or 4.88 would be sweetthanks kelly thanks kelly
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chris eck
Journeyman Posts: 11
From: PalmHarbor Fl. U.S.A.
Registered: Oct 2001
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posted 01-07-2002 01:10 PM
People either hate or like the port plates.I like them and use them on my 351c-4v as well.The guy at M.P.G. in Colorado who sold me mine some time ago said the mismatch actually promotes turbulance for better air fuel mixing before entering the head.The velocity shouldnt be restricted by the mismatch.First run at Sunshine 1/8 mile showed improvement.Need to have Tune Tech do a dyno run with out the plates now to see if they still are really working right with my combo.
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Rustang1
Gearhead Posts: 110
From:
Registered: Nov 2000
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posted 01-07-2002 01:34 PM
Alot of guys on here will tell you to stay away from port plates! Personally, I'm running them on my clevor and they did not hurt flow one bit, but my setup was different from what you're trying to do. I'm running the Roush intake wedges which are aluminum castings that pin in place. I used them out of necessity since I was mating the heads to an SVO intake and they were required to get the ports to align. For your setup I think you would need some sort of transition to the plates in your intake since there would be a "wall" at the head face otherwise. You'd just have to make sure you don't end up with big whoops and humps and big changes in cross sectional area. Before I put the wedges in I contacted Roush and spoke to a guy named Red. He recommended using the port wedges for an automatic, and not using them with a 4 speed application. Put 'em in and try 'em...if the car slows down take 'em out!
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1968 Mustang,Clevor,C4
1969 Torino 351C 4spd
1978 F150 460 C6
1978 F150 351W C6
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kid vishus
Gearhead Posts: 6590
From: middle of NC
Registered: Oct 2000
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posted 01-07-2002 04:22 PM
I had 'em, and hated them. They didnt seal very well for long periods of time, nor did they help at all on my motor. If you're going to take the time and epoxy the intake, why not go ahead and do it all correctly and epoxy the head too? And after that, put more gear, at least 1000 more stall, and more cam and it will really run.  Personally, I would just take the plates out.
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Mpcoluv
Gearhead Posts: 1341
From: Charlotte NC usa
Registered: Apr 2001
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posted 01-07-2002 04:26 PM
quote:
Originally posted by Rustang1:
Before I put the wedges in I contacted Roush and spoke to a guy named Red. He recommended using the port wedges for an automatic, and not using them with a 4 speed application.Put 'em in and try 'em...if the car slows down take 'em out!
I have also talked with Red at Roush.
He told me that if you are turning over 8K rpm then the wedges do you no good because you cam is too large to make torque in the low end anyways. He said that they would help a Auto drag car as Rustang said, and also said that they would help with Street/Strip cars with any tranny.
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Mpcoluv
Gearhead Posts: 1341
From: Charlotte NC usa
Registered: Apr 2001
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posted 01-07-2002 05:46 PM
BTW I forgot to sak, how did you ever get the MPG port plates to seal? Mine were a tremendous vacuum leak.
Anybody wanna buy a set?
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