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Author
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Topic: 514" Engine Update
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SG236
Gearhead Posts: 416
From: Jasper, TN, USA
Registered: Dec 2000
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posted 12-26-2001 02:10 PM
   
Well, since I exploded the cleveland in the summer and decided to go with the BBF here is a udpate.Had the D1Ve block plated bored to .80 over.
purchased 6.8 Eagle H-Beam rods
276/282 roller cam with .748 lift
D0VE ported and polished heads (I need alum, can't afford right now)ferrera valves
Eagle crank
Block was reworked for better oil flow to the mains
Canton race oil pan
1050 race dominator
victor race intake SuperStock friend of mine is putting the thing together and checking clearances and deck height. I have purchased a tube chassis supergas mustang to put this engine in. It should run around 5.80/115 or better in the 1/8th.
My tube chassis Maverick that was in a fire is for sale. Good car just wanted to go with the good deal on a supergas car. The Maverick has been fixed just needs a paint job (it's in primer now). Pic is in the member's page.
Russ Hood
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SG236
Gearhead Posts: 416
From: Jasper, TN, USA
Registered: Dec 2000
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posted 12-26-2001 02:11 PM
Oh I forgot to mention I am using JE pistons for the stroker.
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S/Q 2204
Gearhead Posts: 103
From: Ozark, AL(again after a year of being deployed)
Registered: Feb 2001
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posted 12-27-2001 12:16 AM
Did you by chance double pin the cam? Some say the pins shear from lube problems. I wonder if the blocks are not twisting up and pinching the cams or the inertia of the valve train wanting to stay in motion causing the problem (it does have alot of resistance to change). At any rate double pin the gear it is easy & cheap insurance.
Did you pour the block?
Hope all goes well.
Later,
Mark J.
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Dr. Who
Gearhead Posts: 164
From: Redwood City, Ca.
Registered: Sep 2001
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posted 12-27-2001 12:38 AM
I'm thinkin it's block flex too Mark. I wonder if roller cam bearings are the cure, and if the cure is worth the price of the machining cost? ------------------
Woo wooob wooob wooob woo! Curly Howard
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SteveLaRiviere
Administrator Posts: 43790
From: Saco, Maine
Registered: May 99
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posted 12-27-2001 07:34 AM
If it was block twist, you'd see it in the cam bearings.------------------
'70 Mustang Mach 1 M code 351C 4V/FMX/3.25 open
'72 Mustang Sprint Coupe 351C 4V/FMX/4.30 Trac Lok
'94 F-150 XL 5.8L/E4OD/3.55 Limited Slip
'97 Probe GTS 2.5L DOHC
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SG236
Gearhead Posts: 416
From: Jasper, TN, USA
Registered: Dec 2000
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posted 12-27-2001 01:16 PM
Mark, I did double pin the cam. I did not fill the block. I'm not going to turn this motor very hard just shift around 6000-6200 rpm. Thanks, Russ Hood
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Just Strokin
Gearhead Posts: 754
From: Tuscaloosa, Alabama
Registered: Dec 2001
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posted 12-27-2001 01:56 PM
Who wants to risk a beer on Russ's statement 'just shift around 6000-6200 rpm'???  Sounds like a good combo you are building there Russ.
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SG236
Gearhead Posts: 416
From: Jasper, TN, USA
Registered: Dec 2000
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posted 12-27-2001 02:20 PM
Well............maybe 6500!
Hehehe!
Thanks Russ
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S/Q 2204
Gearhead Posts: 103
From: Ozark, AL(again after a year of being deployed)
Registered: Feb 2001
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posted 12-27-2001 10:31 PM
Russ,
Sounds like you will be fine with your combo.
I got to thinking about all that happened to my stock blocks & the others I built. Stock blocks can & do twist around. Look at some of the Cleveland small block guys that have major problems when power levels go up. I keep hearing about cylinders that pinch one of the pistons causing the rod to pull in two. One of the old round track guys used to drill & tap the side of the block running a bolt up to the cylinder to try to keep it round (back in the 70's).
My first & only pin failure occured at 6800 on the shift(auto back then). The cam had plenty of clearance before & after. If it had been double pinned I think it would have spun the cam bearings like the customer's engine in my shop did. I think the main girdle on it did nothing but try to snatch all the main webbing out at one time.
As long as power out put stays below 650H.P. I think the weakness of the block will not be a factor. Roller cam bearings would only mask the problem.
I have rambled long enough but maybe it will generate some thought.
Later,
Mark J.
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SG236
Gearhead Posts: 416
From: Jasper, TN, USA
Registered: Dec 2000
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posted 12-28-2001 10:04 AM
Mark, Ramble all you want. I appreciate the input since I'm kinda new to the 385 series. I'm trying to take the proper steps to make sure everything is ok. I do have a question. I usually use the blockoff for the oil filter and use the remote double oil filters, is this necessary? Just seems like extra protection to me cause I used it on the cleveland and never took the heads off the thing for 7 years. When I did tear the thing down last winter the inside looked brand new. I try to change the oil ever 20-21 passes, maybe that is too much but I believe in taking car of the engine. I ran 20W-50 i in the cleveland and advice from a SuperStocker friend of mine suggested I use just regular 30 wt in the 514. What are your thoughts? Russ
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Just Strokin
Gearhead Posts: 754
From: Tuscaloosa, Alabama
Registered: Dec 2001
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posted 12-28-2001 01:52 PM
I always like Vavoline 20w50 in the cleveland motors. The BBF I used some of the Vavoline and Union76 20w50.I think two filters are okay specially if you aren't using hipo flowing filters. The flow is distributed over 2 filters and not as restrictive to the oil flow. I used a Moroso oil accumilator for shut down. This prevented oil stravation during hard braking on short tracks. The oil light never came on with it installed and a 5psi switch control the autometer light.
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SG236
Gearhead Posts: 416
From: Jasper, TN, USA
Registered: Dec 2000
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posted 12-28-2001 02:04 PM
Strokin, What is your combo or combinations? Thanks for the input.
Russ Hood
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Just Strokin
Gearhead Posts: 754
From: Tuscaloosa, Alabama
Registered: Dec 2001
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posted 12-28-2001 02:29 PM
The old clevelands i ran were flat tappet crane's with stock boss pistons in a two bolt block with a strip dom manifold and boss 351 heads. Both had 5.67 gears, one was tube with C6 and one was stock pinto body with FMX. Stock pinto body ran consistant 7.40's and the tube ran 6.90's. Both had too much gear for 1/8th.The last car was an 86 Tbird Chris Alston Chassisworks tube with 514 and Blue Thunder chevy port heads with 460 victor intake and 13plus compression with the first JW ultraglide they ever shipped and 4.86 gears. I built the car myself and did all the work on the motor. Never did get it completely sorted out before I sold it. We ran 5.80's at 124mph on an 1/8. Car went thru lights at 6200rpm and still pulling. Short times weren't that great, 1.25-1.35's. Sold it since I never had anyone to go with me. Wanting to build a streetable 64 Failane with 460 and C4. Looking for a 2dr post body. Currently ordering parts here and there for it.
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SG236
Gearhead Posts: 416
From: Jasper, TN, USA
Registered: Dec 2000
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posted 12-28-2001 02:53 PM
Strokin, The cleveland I had raced until this past summer was a stroker. Had 4V heads with BBC valves, strip dominator, eagle rods, ross pistons and a 1.76 glide. Ran 6.40s in the 1/8 in a 2400 lb tube chassis car. Good engine until I decided over last winter to do more head work and get the thing into the 6.0s. I think I detonated the motor. The crank broke in the front two cylinders craking both of them, cracking the block up through the distributor hole. Oh, after I reworked the heads, new valve springs, etc couldn't get the thing to run faster than 6.71. Came down to Montgomery and it ran the 6.71. Had the convertor and tranny checked all ok. I think I just screwed up the combination. Oh well, an expensive lesson learned.
Russ
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john arbing
Journeyman Posts: 1
From: houston tx
Registered: Dec 2001
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posted 12-28-2001 06:36 PM
possibly interested in your tube frame mav can you elaborate a bit thanks
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S/Q 2204
Gearhead Posts: 103
From: Ozark, AL(again after a year of being deployed)
Registered: Feb 2001
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posted 12-28-2001 10:05 PM
Russ,
I use a System one filter. This makes it easy to keep a check on things without having to waiste alot of time. Over a period of time the thing will over come the price as no more filters to be bought. I don't like the idea of all the plumbing for remoting two filters. I have always ran alcohol since switching to 385's. The oil was sorta dictated by the clearences & fuel; I use a straight 40 or 50. Valvoline & Kendal (sp?) seemed to tolerate the alcohol the best. Synthetic was not an option when I started so I know little about it except it has been figured out on the formula & is now great stuff.
Later,
Mark J.
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Just Strokin
Gearhead Posts: 754
From: Tuscaloosa, Alabama
Registered: Dec 2001
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posted 12-31-2001 11:36 AM
May be a wild goose chase or may have struck gold, but heading out to KS at noon today to pick up this motor and parts.514 and C6
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