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Author
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Topic: Battery cable routing from trunk?
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steve'66
Gearhead Posts: 9104
From: Sonoma,CA,USA
Registered: Mar 2000
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posted 12-25-2001 04:21 PM
   
Merry Christmas everyone!How did you route your trunk's battery to the front? Through the passenger compartment or under the car? I'm leaning towards keeping them inside. TIA
SteveW
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kid vishus
Gearhead Posts: 6220
From: middle of NC
Registered: Oct 2000
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posted 12-25-2001 04:41 PM
On my granada, where the solenoid was mounted inside the car, we ran them in the car. On my mustang, the soleniod is mounted on the passengers side fenderwell and the battery cable is ran under the car on the inside portion (driveshaft side) of the frame rail. The fuel line is mounted on the outside.
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Dave_C
Gearhead Posts: 994
From: Gadsden, Al
Registered: Aug 99
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posted 12-25-2001 05:34 PM
On my 69 it's inside, but it's not exsposed to any wear and tear anywhere along it's length. I ran it down the passenger side. Starts up and over the inner wheelhouse then goes through the cavity that would be covered by the inner qtr panel covers, then under he sill plate. There was a small gap where I passed it from the qtr panel to the sill plate without drilling a hole. Then from sill plate it passes into the front pillar, same type of gap at the bottom. Comes out at the front edge of the kick panel. Passes through a small hole with a grommet in the firewall near where the heater fan motor used to be. Later, David Cole
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steve'66
Gearhead Posts: 9104
From: Sonoma,CA,USA
Registered: Mar 2000
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posted 12-25-2001 06:09 PM
Thanks guys,Nother ?, I was gonna run three wires. The alt wire, and a neutral & positive cable. Did you guys bother with a neutral cable to the block?
SteveW
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Just Strokin
Gearhead Posts: 754
From: Tuscaloosa, Alabama
Registered: Dec 2001
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posted 12-25-2001 06:15 PM
Always ground the block to the frame. It can cause strange problems if you don't.Are you mounting the solenoid in the trunk also? or just the power cable? If just the power cable, you shouldn't need a 'neutral' wire as long as you find a good place (i.e., clean and stays clean) to ground the battery.
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steve'66
Gearhead Posts: 9104
From: Sonoma,CA,USA
Registered: Mar 2000
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posted 12-25-2001 06:22 PM
JS,I was gonna run a ground cable from the battery to the block of the engine and ground both heads to the firewall. Using 1 gauge welding cable for wire. Sound ok, or is the unibody ground good enough? SteveW
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Just Strokin
Gearhead Posts: 754
From: Tuscaloosa, Alabama
Registered: Dec 2001
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posted 12-25-2001 06:26 PM
Even on a tube chassis car I built. I grounded the batteries to the frame in back and then grounded the other things close to their mounts, such as the MSD box, the lights, etc. And with a motor plate and mid-mount, I used that as my engine to frame ground.Make sure that you also ground the engine to the frame, specially if you still using rubber mounts, if you are going to run a neutral wire from the battery to the engine.
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kid vishus
Gearhead Posts: 6220
From: middle of NC
Registered: Oct 2000
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posted 12-25-2001 06:37 PM
My battery is ground to the frame in back, and the motor has a ground strap from the passenger side head to the frame in front. I have two wires run to the front, the positive cable, and the alternator wire, and thats it.
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steve'66
Gearhead Posts: 9104
From: Sonoma,CA,USA
Registered: Mar 2000
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posted 12-25-2001 06:39 PM
If it's good enough for you, it's good enough for us.  Thanks Rob,SteveW
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Just Strokin
Gearhead Posts: 754
From: Tuscaloosa, Alabama
Registered: Dec 2001
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posted 12-25-2001 07:15 PM
If you still have the solenoid in the engine compartment and that is where you are attaching the new battery cable from the trunk, then you don't need to run an alternator wire to the trunk. The new battery cable does this for you as it does when the battery is installed under the hood.
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steve'66
Gearhead Posts: 9104
From: Sonoma,CA,USA
Registered: Mar 2000
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posted 12-25-2001 07:56 PM
JS,How's that work? Without switching the alt. wire, there'll still be a connection from the alternator to the ignition and everything else except the battery. This will allow the engine to keep running after the battery switch is turned off and won't pass tech. 
SteveW
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capri man
Gearhead Posts: 6652
From: doerun, ga.
Registered: Nov 2000
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posted 12-25-2001 08:20 PM
correct steve, the alt wire has to be connected to the battery side of the cutoff switch.
------------------
mike r
racing is real
everything else is just a game.
81 capri-7.56 @88mph 1/8
1.56 60 ft.
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Just Strokin
Gearhead Posts: 754
From: Tuscaloosa, Alabama
Registered: Dec 2001
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posted 12-25-2001 08:45 PM
I must have missed the part about the cut-off switch. Sorry.
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steve'66
Gearhead Posts: 9104
From: Sonoma,CA,USA
Registered: Mar 2000
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posted 12-25-2001 09:44 PM
No sweat JS. Yeah, if it wasn't a drag car it would be ok. It's a '66 Mustang that was a street et car, going to "no box" class next year. Thanks for your posts, it's tough when you don't know what car I'm working on or what we're doing with it. Merry Christmas all, SteveW
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kid vishus
Gearhead Posts: 6220
From: middle of NC
Registered: Oct 2000
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posted 12-26-2001 06:38 AM
quote:
Originally posted by steve'66:
Without switching the alt. wire, there'll still be a connection from the alternator to the ignition and everything else except the battery. This will allow the engine to keep running after the battery switch is turned off and won't pass tech.
SteveW
You would be suprised at how many cars still wont pass because of that one little thing. When I first started, thats the way mine was wired up, and I bet I ran like that for 3-4 years before they checked it. After they checked mine, they started checking everyone else who had an alternator. I think they found like 2 guys that had it wired up right so it would turn the motor off.
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JAAZZY
Gearhead Posts: 779
From: Bay Area, CA
Registered: Apr 2001
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posted 12-26-2001 01:17 PM
A little late to the party but...I ran the battery cable under the car on the passenger side on the inside of the frame rail. I have subframe connectors so it is protected the whole way. It has been this way for about 10 years with no problems. I mounted the cutoff switch in the trunk with an 18" handle that comes through the tail light fixture. It works perfectly and on the street the handle can just be removed and thrown in the trunk.
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steve'66
Gearhead Posts: 9104
From: Sonoma,CA,USA
Registered: Mar 2000
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posted 12-26-2001 06:23 PM
OK,Got that done, now I still have to run the alt wire. I think it's going through the car. The batt cable is under the car in a peice of conduit clamped up under inside the frame rail. It starts and the tranny works. Have to cork up the exhaust, mount the battery & trans temp gauge, wire the whole mess up, and . . . . well I better get back to work. 
SteveW
SteveW
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I65Stang
Gearhead Posts: 6381
From: Folsom, CA
Registered: Jun 99
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posted 12-26-2001 06:52 PM
Yeah, quit posting and get back to work . Lol, battery is being charged as we speak so that I can work on the '88 (someone left the glove box door open) .------------------
Tim M&M Member #35
1965 Mustang coupe, 200 I6, Holley 2300, Clifford header, true duals w/ 26" Smithys
1988 Mustang GT AOD vert, 15.810 @ 88.871 mph 100% stock w/ no traction
1976 Silverline Comoro 18' trihull ski boat, 188 hp 302 I/O, another toy
http://all.at/mustang
https://mustangsandmore.com/ubb/I65Stang.html
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