I'd like to hear what you have to say about mechanical and hydraulic cams, the pros and cons of each. How often do you reset the valve lash with solid lift cams? I've read about it and it doesn't sound like too bad of a chore. What are your experiences with solid and hydraulic cams. What do you run YOUR car? Thanks much!!

I "lifted" this from BadAssRacing's website, it's the truth and will save me some typing. Melissa's 351w runs a solid cam and its lash hasn't changed a bit in 20,000 miles. Also, you never have to worry about a hydraulic lifter pumping up.

{Solid lifter cams are always a good choice for a hot street or race engine. They usually have faster ramps (lobes) than hydraulic cams but not as fast as roller cams. They also usually need a stouter spring than a hydraulic cam but not nearly as stiff as a roller cam. They're kind of the middle of the road between the two. Forget about those lame wives tales about solid lifters always going out of adjustment! That's just not true! The ONLY way the adjustment (lash) can change is if something is either wearing out or going bad, period! If a rocker stud starts pulling out, the lash will increase. If the tip of the valve is getting hammered or mushroomed, the lash will increase. That's what lash caps are made for. If the tip or the cup of the rocker arm starts to wear out, the lash will increase. If a push rod bends or wears out one (or both) of the tips, the lash will increase. If the lifter is getting cupped or the cam is going flat, the lash will increase. If a valve seat "sinks" or recesses, then the valve is actually lifting or sitting higher, the lash will decrease. No matter how you slice it, if a solid lifter cam keeps going out of adjustment, something is seriously wrong! Most of the time it was just a wives tale being spread by someone who's probably never even ran a solid lifter cam or had a piece of junk engine that was falling apart.}

That's a great cam and deal!

If you don't want to spin the engine any higher than 6500, installing a cam larger than what I listed will only kill off the low-end and midrange power. For best results, use around 236 on the intake, slightly more on the exhaust, and a lobe seperation of around 110 degrees with the dual plane. The engine should pull really hard from around 3500-6500rpm, yet still pull just fine from around 1500rpm.

Here are some excellent lobes to choose from. They are new, modern lobes that Comp Cams is using to grind their upcoming Extreme Energy solid lifter cams from. They are the "XTQ" lobes. Pick your intake and exhaust lobe, and call Comp and have them do a custom grind for you. They don't cost much more than off the shelf units.

http://www.compcams.com/catalog/233.html

Good Luck!

On a race motor you want to check them often, but when/if you find a tight one it's because a valve is sinking into the head. Loose ones are the result of valve train wear. With hydraulics you'll never know until it's too late.

The engine builder asked me if I wanted to go with main studs and a line hone, I think I will. He also recommended that I not use a high volume oil pump because it wastes HP and because stock oil flow is plenty and pressure is good too.

As for the custom grind, how does 236/240 D and .534/.544 L using the XTQ lobes sound? You guys are an incredible resource. I really appreciate it!!!

Just make sure to back it up with a good set of headers and a free flowing exhaust of at least 2.5" diameter. Flowmaster makes 2.5" mandrel bent tailpipes for $99 (mandatory) if you need tailpipes. Regular muffler shop tailpipes get crused down to nothing in making those bends up and over the axle. Don't use long mufflers, they don't give enough room for that first tailpipe bend.

Good Luck!

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Originally posted by MDF99:

As for the custom grind, how does 236/240 D and .534/.544 L using the XTQ lobes sound? You guys are an incredible resource. I really appreciate it!!!

MDF

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236/242, .536/.544, 108 separation, 4 degrees built in advance, 2250-6800 rpm range. Sounds like fun to me!!