1.) How do gap the pickup from the bottom of the pan? I��ve heard �� inch. How would I check it? I have a harden pump shaft (moroso) Do I need to lok-tite the oil pump bolts? Heard just use yellow silicone on the pan, no gasket?

2.) Motor has been sitting a while, so I bought some more cam lube. Heard only put it on the bottom of the lifters? I have standard Fel-Pro head gaskets and used head bolts. Any tricks there? I have the big ��turkey pan�� intake gasket. Heard to yellow silicone up the rear rope gasket that comes w/ the turkey pan really good. Have new intake bolts. Use motor oil, lok-tite, or anti-sieze (is that what I ask for at parts store? Is there a brand name?) Are the tork spec. in ford manual ok?

3.) I read to article on the Bul.Board @ magic marker on the valve tip. Use a single spring to check rocker travel and a adjustable pushrod. I have stock pushrods now, but heads have been shaved .020, block decked .010 (I think) and have Harland Sharp Rockers. Guess I��ll probably need shorter pushrods? 5/16��s still ok? (290# open spring pressure.) ok���� I��ve heard stuff rope in the spark plug hole to hold the valve up while you change out to your weak checking spring (what would that be the outer spring?) How do you compress the valve spring with the head on? Is it better to just install heads w/ all single springs on there, check, remove, then reinstall? Never reuse head gaskets, right? Lose ya? Is it possible I could need different lengths for different valves? Should they all be the same? What brand do you use? I know guide plates= harden rods.

4.) The body is a 69 fastback. I��ll install water pump, c-4 and headers before I drop the motor in? Will that work? Is that the easiest? Actually I did hear you need to have the passenger side header on before you install it.

Thanks for any help, insites, tips. Sincerely Russ

I'll start with the answer to #1, Put clay on the bottom of the pan and install it with a four bolts and no gasket. Then measure the thickness of the clay afterwards and add a 1/16" for the compressed gasket. The rest of your questions I'll leave for the "C" guys!

I put a straightedge on the oil pan from pan rail to pan rail and I measure to the bottom of the pan. Add the thickness of the oil pan gasket. Then I set the pickup 1/4" shy of that by putting the straightedge on the pickup and measuring to the pan rails on the block.

Glad you have a hardened driveshaft. I wouldn't even build a stock motor without one. Use Loctite on the oil pump bolts if it makes you more comfortable, but it's not needed as long as you use the proper torque and a new gasket.

Always use an oil pan gasket. Use silicone at the joining of the gaskets and the rubber ends.

2.) Motor has been sitting a while, so I bought some more cam lube. Heard only put it on the bottom of the lifters?

You also want to use it on the cam lobes.

I have standard Fel-Pro head gaskets and used head bolts. Any tricks there?

Keep everything CLEAN. Wipe the decks with lacquer thinner or carb cleaner, and use a razor blade to clean the deck right down to the metal. Use a tap to run through all bolt holes. Clean the head bolts with a wire wheel on your bench grinder, then lube the bolts with oil.

I have the big ��turkey pan�� intake gasket. Heard to yellow silicone up the rear rope gasket that comes w/ the turkey pan really good. Have new intake bolts. Use motor oil, lok-tite, or anti-sieze (is that what I ask for at parts store? Is there a brand name?) Are the tork spec. in ford manual ok?

On the intake rail seals {Not the rope seal, that's at your rear main bearing} use either silicone or the seal, not both. Best is just to use the silicone. {I prefer the blue silicone, myself} Either motor oil or anti-seize is fine. The torque specs in the Ford manual is what you should follow.

3.) I read to article on the Bul.Board @ magic marker on the valve tip. Use a single spring to check rocker travel and a adjustable pushrod. I have stock pushrods now, but heads have been shaved .020, block decked .010 (I think) and have Harland Sharp Rockers. Guess I��ll probably need shorter pushrods? 5/16��s still ok? (290# open spring pressure.)

It's good to check rocker arm geometry. 5/16" pushrods are fine. With your springs, you won't need to check with one spring out. 290s are pretty light.

ok���� I��ve heard stuff rope in the spark plug hole to hold the valve up while you change out to your weak checking spring (what would that be the outer spring?)

Most people that do that use 'checking springs.' You don't need to worry about this.

How do you compress the valve spring with the head on?

With a cat's paw, or a claw type spring compressor.

Is it better to just install heads w/ all single springs on there, check, remove, then reinstall?

No.

Never reuse head gaskets, right?

Right.

Lose ya?

Just my patience.

Is it possible I could need different lengths for different valves?

Yes.

Should they all be the same?

Most guys try to find a length that is a good compromise.

What brand do you use? I know guide plates= harden rods.

Most major brands are fine. CompCams makes nice pushrods.

4.) The body is a 69 fastback. I��ll install water pump, c-4 and headers before I drop the motor in? Will that work? Is that the easiest? Actually I did hear you need to have the passenger side header on before you install it.

It's easier to install the engine alone. The engine and C4 combo in a long mother to maneuver without beating the hell out of everything. You sure won't be dropping your engine in with the headers on, your shock towers won't let you. You'll want your headers laying in the engine compartment as you lower the engine.

------------------
'70 Mustang Mach 1 M code 351C 4V/FMX/3.25 open
'72 Mustang Sprint Coupe 351C 4V/FMX/4.30 Trac Lok
'94 F-150 XL 5.8L/E4OD/3.55 Limited Slip
'97 Probe GTS 2.5L DOHC
My Photo Page
I've been really worried about my anxiety problem...