I still have the temporary 9" 4.44 spooled rear end under it and the engine pulls good to 7000 rpms.. What I need to know is, when launching at say...4000-5000 rpms... After I bring the rpms up,
1.) Should I push the gas through the floorboard at the exact same time that I release the clutch??
2.) Should I release the new 10.5 " diaphagm clutch smoothly, or instantly?

You'll probably do best by taking off easy, then sticking your foot in it. Once they start to spin, they're up in smoke.

A "wrinkle wall" tire absorbs that shock load, and allows a MUCH harder launch. If you get serious about seeing what your car is really worth at the track, you'll need a set of slicks.

Have Fun!

Here's what worked best for me:

15 psi, nice long burnout.

Launched at 6000 RPM, mashed pedal while releasing clutch. 1.91 60' time. (best on street tires 2.1)

My best tonight was a 13.07, previous best on street tires was a 13.94, although I think I could easily run a 13.7 on street tires.

But I'm not looking forward to putting the street tires back on, like you said, it hooks great!

I searched corral.net and other sites about launching with the BFGs, they seem to be really good, almost as good as wrinkle walls (they'll never be as good) and read there that several people have gotten 1.8 60" with them.

A set of slicks (or ET-Streets), used occasionally for racing, can last several years. A set of Drag Radials used full time (with much driving at all) will usually last one summer at best.

Moneywise, you're better off in the long run going with a real wrinkle wall drag tire for racing, and a regular tire for the street. Both initially cost about the same, but over time it adds up.

Another thing about drag radials... yes, they DO have a really soft compound, but that soft commpound is easily cut and sliced on rough or jagged terrain. So watch out for those road hazards! You'll get a lot more burnouts and better manners on wet roads with regular street radials.

A part time wrinkle wall mounted on an old set of wheels for part time use just makes sense. You're dollars ahead in the long run, and go faster at the track to boot!

I've seen where people buy Drag Radials for part time duty, but don't really know why... If a person wants a part time drag tire, get a real one! That is, unless you've got a new Cobra mustang that has huge brakes on the back that require 17" wheels... and slicks aren't available.

I guess if a person only drove a few miles a year and wasn't worried about tire wear they could afford to run drag radials as their normal tire and still switch to slicks at the track...

Good Luck!

I also just recently installed a Pertronix Flamethrower coil to go with the ignitor, and my rpm limit has went from 6200 up to 7000+... The car will now do 120+ MPH with a 4.44 rear gear..!! What a difference a good coil can make. (I'll be glad to get my 3.50 trac-loc back in after this season is over..) Today I'm gonna finish doing my rear battery mount, that I have been putting off for yrs.. Then, all I need is a helmet, and we should be ready for a good shake down at Atlanta dragway next weekend..

Thanks for the replies guys,
DAN

1. I figured I wasn't making enough power to justify real slicks anyway
2. I wanted to drive to the track (45 miles) with them, even if it rained
3. They were cheaper, and I'm poor

From what I've seen they are all the traction I need right now. I'm not running 11s or anything.

I've driven them in the rain and they are not bad at all. Certainly no worse than what I've seen with bald stock radials at times.

I have 500 miles on them now (only 10 1/4 runs) and they still look new. I don't know how you could wear them out so quickly unless its all 1/4 miles . A friend of mine has a 99 Z28 and he has 1100 miles on his BFGs and they look pretty good too. One of the biggest reasons I bought them.

List of improvements after my base run of 13.85 @ 100 MPH

* Drag radials and Centerline Billets - was using steel wheels and street tires

* Flamethrower coil - 7000 rpms (up from 6200)

* 70/30 HD rear shocks - had gas charged 50/50

* Rear Battery mount - better weight dist.

* Removed 120 lbs of rear ballast - less weight

* Adjusted spark advance - 40 degrees total @ 3000 rpms ( was 36 degrees @ 4500)

****** I should see a little improvement!! ;D

My bro-in-law (Mike) has a street 350 Nova with a automatic and 3000 rpm stall, 3.73 rear, and M/T Sportman Pros. We've had an ongoing competition now for years with our low budget street cars, trying to prove who is the quickest.. A lot of our family members will be there to witness the race so it's kind of special. The last time out he kicked my tail with a 13.65 1/4 mi. against my 13.80, but I wound up spinning my street tires wildly off the line and my engine topped out at about 1200 ft @ 6200 rpms.. Hopefully those 2 things won't happen again!!

I think it's time to open a can of Ford kick-butt!

Later,
Dan

------------------
1966 Mustang V8 Coupe (was 6cyl)
289 320hp 4 spd 9" 3.50 Trac-loc
http://www.picturelist.net/Images/dbhard/1966.jpg

I dialed in 13.70 in the first round of eliminations and ran 1.96 60', .527 react, with a 13.705 @ 98.2 mph and won easily.

2nd round, I dialed in 13.65 and raised my launch to 4500 rpms, and ran 1.87 60', 537 react, with a 13.63 @ 98.56. I won on a double break out. Mike lost the second round with a 13.55 on a 13.57.

3rd round, I dialed in 13.60 and was trying to raise my launch to 5500 rpms, but while I was looking at the tachometer, I lost my concentration on the tree and redlighted with a .306 react. I think I launched on the 2nd yellow, but not sure.. I finished the run off half-heartedly with a 1.90 60' and 13.60 @ 97 mph...

Mike bought back in for a round and broke out with a 13.44 on a 13.50, So he still managed to claim the quickest car..

I get one more chance next week to try to work on my launch technique.. The car is hooking up good with the BFGs and just maybe there's a little more left in the old 4 spd. Mustang..

Sometimes when concentrating on the big picture, we overlook the little things..

More to come next weekend..

Sounds like it's time for a set of some type of traction bar (if you don't already have a set).

Good Luck!