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Author
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Topic: More Q's on titanium valves and 377's
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Randy Wilson
Journeyman Posts: 21
From: Portland, Or USA
Registered: Feb 2001
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posted 09-18-2001 06:22 PM
   
I have been researching the use of titanium valves on my '70 mach (351C-4V). From what I am finding on the web, I can run my bronze guides, but am getting all kinds of different advice on which material to use for seats. So far, I have found everything from stock cast (definitely not for me!) to beryllium. Some suggestions are, nickel/bronze, aluminum/bronze, Del West #25 alloy (whatever that is?) and recently a friend of a friend suggested Martin and Wells "W" alloy. I see that some of you guys on this forum are running titanium valves. Any suggestions? Any regrets? This is primarily a street/strip application, but I can't seem to hold myself back from going crazy lightening up the whole reciprocating assembly. I am using titanium retainers and keepers, and want to use lightened solid lifters. I have even been thinking about titanium rods, but that seems way cost prohibitive at this point. Might sound stupid, but my cam is a twenty-some year old Clay Smith 280H. .550/.550 no .05 lift info on the card at all. Blue Thunder intake. Oh, and I intend to stroke it to 377 and use 6" narrowed chev rods. I have heard that there is a V-6 bearing that works for reworked rods like this, but haven't found any info on those either. Thanks for any input, Randy.
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clevelandstyle
Gearhead Posts: 614
From: Connersville, IN
Registered: Jul 2001
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posted 09-18-2001 07:00 PM
I would think that you would benfit a lot more from a cam and stroker than you would from getting the valves. Titanium seems too exotic for a street/strip engine.
Just my opinion.
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Randy Wilson
Journeyman Posts: 21
From: Portland, Or USA
Registered: Feb 2001
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posted 09-18-2001 08:56 PM
I am quite sure that you are right about that, but I would think the combination of the two would scream! I already have the intake valves and retainers. Intakes cost me $175.00 and retainers cost me $50.00 which is kind of what started me on this merry little chase. I still need exhausts and keepers, plus the cost of seats and machine work.
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Randy Wilson
Journeyman Posts: 21
From: Portland, Or USA
Registered: Feb 2001
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posted 09-20-2001 11:18 PM
Does anyone have any information on the bearings? I would rather use a stock bearing instead of having to narrow a set. Randy.
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Dave_C
Gearhead Posts: 737
From: Gadsden, Al
Registered: Aug 99
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posted 09-21-2001 06:45 PM
Try Clevite CB 1227 P bearings. These are Chevy V-6 rod bearings. My 383W stroker uses Eagle h-beam SBC rods.I called Eagel for a bearing suggestion as my crank has a large .125 radius on each journal. The told me to use this bearing and that it was a narrow V-6. Either that or chamfered SBC race bearings. I ran it two seasons with these bearings. Tore it down to freshen it and they looked like new. When I freshened it I went with the chamfered bearings and they are wider, but chamfered to clear the radius. The V-6 bearings when square cut and not as wide. Later, David Cole
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Randy Wilson
Journeyman Posts: 21
From: Portland, Or USA
Registered: Feb 2001
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posted 09-22-2001 06:15 PM
Thanks for the comeback, Dave. Looks like I might be better off cutting down a standard set if I can get a little more bearing surface area!? I can't find any info on the widths of the two, but I think it will end up being somewhat of a custom fit at this point. Again, thanks for the help. Randy.
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