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Author
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Topic: CAM CHOICE
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7DMACH1
Gearhead Posts: 2359
From: PHILA. PA.
Registered: Feb 2001
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posted 08-08-2001 09:10 AM
   
I am bulding a new short block for my 70 mach 351c 4v. The heads and cam are new and was wondering what you all think of the cam. Should I keep it or change it. The car has 4:30 gears and a 2.78 top loader. It's a Lunati part #071112 grind sm-235. It's 285/560. 235 @50. lobe separation 108. Center line 104. ex closes 5.5 opens 49.5. Intake opens 13.5 closes 41.5. I was going to keep it at 11-1 compression. I has full length headers and a Edelbrock performer RPM. this is a street/ show car. Thanx Ray------------------
1970 MACH 1 351C 4SPD
1986 CAPRI 5.0 5 spd.
2001 LINCOLN LS V8
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70coupe
Gearhead Posts: 459
From: Toronto,Ontario,Canada
Registered: Aug 2000
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posted 08-08-2001 09:51 AM
Cam sounds like a good street/strip grind. I dont think that a performer rpm was built for the cleveland. It must be a dual plane performer pt#2665. If this is the case get rid of the intake and buy a Blue thunder dual plane or Holley strip dominator or torker intake. I had a performer and it stopped working at 5500 rpm, and I mean completely quit.
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MrXerox
Gearhead Posts: 348
From: Oklahoma City, Oklahoma
Registered: Nov 2000
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posted 08-08-2001 03:29 PM
If I may make some hard learned suggestions I would go with a little more duration (somewhere around a 244 or a tad higher) and a bit more lift as well...keep in mind that the 4V Cleveland heads you have need to be able to breathe to make any good power. Also increase you lobe separation to 110 to help bleed off some of that compression so you can use pump gas. The Performer intake is junk on a Cleveland, go with a strip dominator (if they are back in production yet) otherwise get an x-cellerator. All the mistakes you are about to make I already made  I am running a solid roller 244 @ .050 .623/.623 on a 110 right now on my street 71 Mach/C6 auto with 91 pump gas and it loves it. Top it all off with a Holley 750cfm and you will be very pleased with the results.
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kid vishus
Gearhead Posts: 6098
From: middle of NC
Registered: Oct 2000
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posted 08-08-2001 04:37 PM
I ran a cam with similar numbers, but it was a solid, in a 4v headed cleveland. I used a Torker intake though, and it worked real well as a street/strip combo.I would use that cam, and a Torker intake. It should be happy spinning up to about 6400 or so. I agree with the 750 recommendation.
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69maverick
Moderator Posts: 1455
From: Thomaston,CT.
Registered: Jan 2001
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posted 08-09-2001 07:54 AM
Ray I would go along with what MrXerox is saying! Atleast 244 or better! The only thing I would add to this is most guys who run clevlands around here on the street tend to use the 2v heads with the ext.valves from the 4v heads! Or I have heard about a sleeve that goes in the port. I have no info on this but I have heard some positive talk about it in the dyno room at a well know place up here called BILL'S Racing !P.S. What he says about the Lobe center and the intake are right on the money!! If you don't go to a 110 L/C you will have tons of cylinder pressure Making it act like you have 12.5 to 1 Comp. Jim B. [This message has been edited by 69maverick (edited 08-09-2001).]
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MrXerox
Gearhead Posts: 348
From: Oklahoma City, Oklahoma
Registered: Nov 2000
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posted 08-09-2001 01:38 PM
DO NOT use the port plates! If you do, buy my pair that is hanging on my wall The 4V heads will work fine for you on the street especially since you have a 4spd and can control the RPMs of the motor. The cam I mentioned will idle great, pull good vaccum and give you gobs of power. My last cam had a 108 LC and I had to put octane booster in everytime I filled up...pain in the a$$
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chips67
Gearhead Posts: 651
From: louisville, ky, usa
Registered: Jul 2001
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posted 08-09-2001 02:57 PM
torker intake? maybe they work on a 351c, on evrything else its best to cash them in with a bag of aluminum cans.------------------
67 coupe, 650dp and rpm intake on 5.0 with afr 165 heads, 4 speed, 4.11's.....best so far is [email protected] in 1/8 mile with 1.91 60ft. time.
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kid vishus
Gearhead Posts: 6098
From: middle of NC
Registered: Oct 2000
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posted 08-09-2001 04:57 PM
quote:
Originally posted by chips67:
torker intake? maybe they work on a 351c, on evrything else its best to cash them in with a bag of aluminum cans.
Yep, they do work good on a cleveland. Just not as well as a Strip Dominator.
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Moneymaker
Administrator Posts: 25883
From: Lyons, IL, USA
Registered: May 99
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posted 08-09-2001 08:17 PM
Needs to be BIGGER!  ------------------
Alex Denysenko
Co-Administrator and Moderator
NHRA/IHRA/SRA member
NHRA and IHRA SS/LA National Record Holder '00 & '01
Fleet of FoMoCo products
Moneymaker Bio
US Class Nationals link
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MrXerox
Gearhead Posts: 348
From: Oklahoma City, Oklahoma
Registered: Nov 2000
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posted 08-10-2001 08:38 AM
And from the heavens he speaks! 
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7DMACH1
Gearhead Posts: 2359
From: PHILA. PA.
Registered: Feb 2001
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posted 08-10-2001 09:02 AM
Well I think it's going to be a 396 stroker motor now, so what cam do you think for this and I think it's going to be solid lifters. It going to still be 11-1 comp and I will change to the manifold you guys already recomended. 278 first gear top loadeer and 433 rear. ------------------
1970 MACH 1 351C 4SPD
1986 CAPRI 5.0 5 spd.
2001 LINCOLN LS V8
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MrXerox
Gearhead Posts: 348
From: Oklahoma City, Oklahoma
Registered: Nov 2000
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posted 08-10-2001 11:10 AM
I assume you are using flat top pistons with valve reliefs? I would recommend not attempting to use stock rods or valves and getting some good light weight pistons. A big solid roller grind would be the only way to go since you are big daddy warbucks Also, you will want to get some good port work done on the heads (especially the exhaust side) so that the cubes can exhale properly...The stroker motor is a whole new can of worms so you might want to ask the Cleveland experts (Alex, Kid Vishus and Steve) what they think...
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clevelandstyle
Gearhead Posts: 1035
From: Connersville, IN
Registered: Jul 2001
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posted 08-10-2001 11:05 PM
All of these mods sound really cool, but...It's still just a street/show car. I can't see buying all of those cool parts if you aren't serious about drag racing.
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kid vishus
Gearhead Posts: 6098
From: middle of NC
Registered: Oct 2000
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posted 08-11-2001 08:10 AM
Well, first of all, I'm no expert, I just break alot of stuff  I wouldnt build a 396 for a street car unless it was going to be raced ALOT. I would be worried about the rod/stroke ratio being really bad with that much stroke added, and worry about the life expactancy of it due to the added stress on parts.
A 377 with the proper rods will give you a really good rod/stroke ratio, live longer than a stock rodded motor, and make more power down in the rpm range. As for the camshaft, a roller will make more power, and sound cooler at idle. But since I have had more than my share of roller lifter problems in the past, and now have this problem with shearing the dowel pin off the cam, that is why I went back to a solid in my race motor. Sean (MrXerox) is definately right, regardless of how big of stroker you go, the heads need some port work to help them breathe. The exhuast side is terrible, and adding cubic inches will only magnify that problem.
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Mpcoluv
Gearhead Posts: 1278
From: Charlotte NC usa
Registered: Apr 2001
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posted 08-11-2001 09:25 AM
Hi,
You guys are saying that a 110 degree cam will bleed off more cylinder pressure than a 108 (with otherwise identical specs).
I thought overlap is what bled off cylinder pressure and the 110 will have less overlap than a 108. Please explain this.Jim (with a 108 LC cam)
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