Author
|
Topic: Good results raise a couple of questions.
|
Big Block Capri Gearhead Posts: 136 From: Essex, Ontario, Canada Registered: Nov 2000
|
posted 08-06-2001 06:04 PM
We just finished a big weekend at the track and were one of three cars left when the race was curfewed. The track has to follow a VERY strict noise ordinance and has a midnight curfew. We had nearly three hours between the first and second, as well as the second and third rounds. After that all the big cars were done and they were hot lapping the bracket cars to try and finish the program before the curfew. We had the car dialled 10.73 for the fourth round and with my opponent red lighting I drove it out and went 10.729. Okay so we dial down to a 10.72. Next round is 15 minutes later so the car isn't nearly as cool as we would have liked but there is no choice in the matter. Car runs 10.721. Again 15 minutes later we get the bye into what would have been the semis, dial it 10.71 and the car goes 10.721. The question is, are we wasting alot of time and energy cooling our cars down? To make 3 passes within 1/2 hour and have them within .008 really makes me wonder. Whattya think?------------------ Paul Garant "No replacement for displacement."
IP: Logged |
7DMACH1 Gearhead Posts: 2359 From: PHILA. PA. Registered: Feb 2001
|
posted 08-06-2001 06:16 PM
If you read the thread about no t/stat the guy seem to agree that heat makes horsepower so therfore I would say you don't need to cool down, if they are right. Just my 2 cent that I read here. Ray------------------ 1970 MACH 1 351C 4SPD 1986 CAPRI 5.0 5 spd. 2001 LINCOLN LS V8
IP: Logged |
steve'66 Gearhead Posts: 8826 From: Sonoma,CA,USA Registered: Mar 2000
|
posted 08-06-2001 09:01 PM
I think we cool our engines to cool the intake air and fuel. If it's breathing fresh air, the engine temp wouldn't be as big a factor. Except the carb and intake would still be hot, along with the fuel in the carb. It did get colder out in the later rounds didn't it? Cool fuel and cool air are what we're looking for. Like the 5.0 guys icing their intakes.SteveW
IP: Logged |
kid vishus Gearhead Posts: 6098 From: middle of NC Registered: Oct 2000
|
posted 08-07-2001 05:45 AM
That is why I always stage with the motor warmer than almost anyone else. I always shut my water pump off when the temp gets down to 170*. The later rounds you dont get the cool down time, and, most cars will go a little faster once everything is good and warmed up, especially the trans.My car will pick up .01 once thtrans gets to 180* and stays there, but then it will lose tha same .01 once it gets over 200* (which happens more than one might think with me running two classes).With it running that consistent, just shows that you are jetted just about perfectly.
IP: Logged |
F551 Gearhead Posts: 245 From: Manitoba, Canada Registered: Nov 2000
|
posted 08-09-2001 12:18 PM
Paul - sounds like you had a good time!I also had some luck on Sunday - won Pro ET. Has not been a good year round wise - hopefully things will get better now! Unbelieveably hot and humid for Viking. Car ran a best of 10.73 to a 10.75 thru the day. We were able to dial the car while the opponents were breaking out. Sounds like you have a good cooling system. Bet that converter was hot! I think as long as you keep the routine the same on the car be it hot or cold it's going to make the car consistent. Different setups need a different routine - Rob runs warm to simulate the conditions of hot lapping into the final - we have to cool right down to make it back to the pit after the pass. When you get down to it it's not max ET that wins a round - but the ability to dial the car (of course start/finish line as well). So you need that routine that will work for the conditions you are racing under - 2 classes, no cooling capacity, no cool down time.... Also making the passes so quickly back to back there would be minimal variation from weather. With us the "breeze" kept changing. Our car has a marginal cooling system for a day like we had. Use a 4 row small block sized rad with elect fan/water pump drive, and the block is filled. Our routine is cool it to 140 after the pass - comes up to 160 into the burnout - about 190 to 200 in the shutdown - then 210 to 220 by the time back to the pit. The filled block really holds the heat. The last three rounds we pushed the car back to the staging lanes. We had about a half hour between rounds. Engine temp just keeps on going up - someday have to get a big fancy Aluminum rad. ------------------ Fred 68 Mustang 500CID/Powerglide - "No Tubs" 86 Mustang GT Cobra
IP: Logged |
kid vishus Gearhead Posts: 6098 From: middle of NC Registered: Oct 2000
|
posted 08-09-2001 04:52 PM
Yep, know all about the filled block holding the heat. My motor now runs about 10* warmer on average than it did before the block was filled. I have a Griffin aluminum radiator, an electric water pump drive with the 40% overdrive pulley, a big electric fan (plus a small electric fan on the trans cooler), and a high volume water pump. Later in the evening, when I know cool down time is almost non-existant, I will run the water pump till the temp is down to around 140*, just becouse I know the fill material holds so much heat that by time I get into the water it will be back up around 160* and that is where I like to stage.
IP: Logged |