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Author Topic:   Heads
Fastymz
Moderator

Posts: 18703
From: Reno Nv USA MEM#1240
Registered: Apr 2001

posted 07-26-2001 09:09 PM     Click Here to See the Profile for Fastymz   Click Here to Email Fastymz     Edit/Delete Message   Reply w/Quote
Is it worth it to have my stock heads rebuilt ,and ported and screw in studs put in them.Or should I save my money and buy some after market heads already done.I need more power,but for less money.I have stock 69 351w heads now that the seals are bad.I keep reading that the stock heads really hold back small block fords.If I get my heads done what sould I get done to them for more power...Thanks Ron

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65 coupe with a stock 1969 351w,RPM intake,carter625cfm,shorty hedmen hedders,black magic electric fan,stock C4,peg leg 8" 2:80,Boss 429 hood scoop.

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unklshu
Gearhead

Posts: 682
From: San Bernardino, Ca
Registered: Jul 2001

posted 07-26-2001 09:29 PM     Click Here to See the Profile for unklshu   Click Here to Email unklshu     Edit/Delete Message   Reply w/Quote
When I built my 302 I had no idea what the heads would be capable of ("J" code), so I opted for Windsor Jrs. I think I paid $600 bare and they were super ruff out of the box. When I had my motor built the guy cleaned them and port matched them for me. I'm happy with them. They scream at WOL. Maybe I could have done it cheaper but this websight wasn't around back in 1993.

joe

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steve'66
Gearhead

Posts: 8826
From: Sonoma,CA,USA
Registered: Mar 2000

posted 07-26-2001 09:31 PM     Click Here to See the Profile for steve'66   Click Here to Email steve'66     Edit/Delete Message   Reply w/Quote
Ron,

Do yourself a favor and buy a nice pair of aluminum heads, or windsor's if the extra weight of cast is ok with you. Your heads are valuable ($150 or so) to the 289/302 guys that want to port them, BTW. IMHO of course,

SteveW

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kid vishus
Gearhead

Posts: 6098
From: middle of NC
Registered: Oct 2000

posted 07-26-2001 09:44 PM     Click Here to See the Profile for kid vishus   Click Here to Email kid vishus     Edit/Delete Message   Reply w/Quote
For what you would spend making your heads flow half way decent, you could buy a set that would flow as well, if not better, right out of the box.

I would buy new heads.

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JAAZZY
Gearhead

Posts: 777
From: Bay Area, CA
Registered: Apr 2001

posted 07-26-2001 09:52 PM     Click Here to See the Profile for JAAZZY     Edit/Delete Message   Reply w/Quote

Save all you pennies until you can get an aftermarket set of aluminum heads. Shop around, someone is sure to have a deal at some point. You might get a set on sale if you have patience.

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jkilroy
Gearhead

Posts: 1808
From: Vicksburg, MS
Registered: Dec 99

posted 07-27-2001 01:05 AM     Click Here to See the Profile for jkilroy   Click Here to Email jkilroy     Edit/Delete Message   Reply w/Quote
If you can save the bucks for the aluminum parts do it. The weigh a ton less, they will require little to no work for your purposes, your engine runs cooler, it pings less, all sorts of good things happen.

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Jay Kilroy
68' Fastback GT 390
"No such thing as a cam thats too big"

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Fastymz
Moderator

Posts: 18703
From: Reno Nv USA MEM#1240
Registered: Apr 2001

posted 07-27-2001 03:01 PM     Click Here to See the Profile for Fastymz   Click Here to Email Fastymz     Edit/Delete Message   Reply w/Quote
Thanks for all the posts.What heads are the best for the money.Less money is always better,but nothing is worst then having to do it twice.I'm looking for the best flowing heads for the least amount of money.Aluminum would be better.But if I could get a really nice set of cast heads and save a alot of money on then.I would deal with the weight as a trade for the money savings.Thanks for your time.Ron

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65 coupe with a stock 1969 351w,RPM intake,carter625cfm,shorty hedmen hedders,black magic electric fan,stock C4,peg leg 8" 2:80,Boss 429 hood scoop.

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SG236
Gearhead

Posts: 416
From: Jasper, TN, USA
Registered: Dec 2000

posted 07-27-2001 04:13 PM     Click Here to See the Profile for SG236   Click Here to Email SG236     Edit/Delete Message   Reply w/Quote
I agree with other posters. Having a stock set of heads reworked can cost you almost as much as a new set of aluminum. Now like Ron said if you can buy a really good set of cast that have already been worked that could be the best deal, but you better know their history.

I poured quite a bit into my cleveland heads!

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Russ Hood
70s Maverick S/Pro
https://mustangsandmore.com/ubb/SG236.html

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steve'66
Gearhead

Posts: 8826
From: Sonoma,CA,USA
Registered: Mar 2000

posted 07-27-2001 04:55 PM     Click Here to See the Profile for steve'66   Click Here to Email steve'66     Edit/Delete Message   Reply w/Quote
Ron,

The Edelbrock Performer RPM heads are a good choice, and they'll match your rpm intake and headers. I think they're about $1,060/pr fully assembled with studs and guide plates.

Windsor sr's are around $850/pr assembled.


SteveW

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JAAZZY
Gearhead

Posts: 777
From: Bay Area, CA
Registered: Apr 2001

posted 07-28-2001 01:06 AM     Click Here to See the Profile for JAAZZY     Edit/Delete Message   Reply w/Quote
People are saying a lot of good things about the AFR heads. They basically are CNC ported right from the factory but at a cost. I think they go for about $1300 which is about $200 more so that could be spent on port work for any of the heads.

I have seen SteveW's car run with the Edelbrocks and it is a runner so I have no doubt they work. I run the early TFS high port heads and they are nice as well but not a good choice unless you want to spend extra cash on headers and stuff since they don't bolt up to the stock stuff. I hear good things about the newer twisted wedge heads as well. It's easy to find flow numbers and runner length on the different heads available so in the end it will depend on exactly what you are trying to do and what type of cam. Contact a reputable shop and they should tell you what you need based on the rest of your combo. FYI, they are sometimes biased based on the brand they make the most money on so do your own research as well.

A lot of the late model guys say good things about a head shop called Total Engine Airflow or TEA. They have a web page but I don't have the link here but it should be easy to find. They do a lot of TFS heads and have proven combos so it eliminates a lot of the guesswork. If I was buying heads again I would consider them, though I like mine enough that I'll probably own them until they need replacement.

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svt522
Gearhead

Posts: 124
From: Hampton, Va
Registered: Jul 2001

posted 07-28-2001 08:00 AM     Click Here to See the Profile for svt522   Click Here to Email svt522     Edit/Delete Message   Reply w/Quote
Avenger cylinder heads work! We put a set on my buddy's 5.0 and it was knocking on the 11 second door! (12.20s at 108mph) Stock bottom end with Sterling .030" Hypereutectic pistons, F303 cam, Performer RPM, 650DP, MAC 1.75" headers and 3.55 gears with a T5! With stock suspension with the front sway bar removed. Race weight was 3400 with driver!

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svt522
1996 SVT Cobra (#522)
1967 F100 w/351C, C-6, 4.11 Detroit Locker
1973 "Q" Code Mach1, 3/4 Vinyl Top, Fold-Down Rear Seat, A/C

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unklshu
Gearhead

Posts: 682
From: San Bernardino, Ca
Registered: Jul 2001

posted 07-28-2001 10:56 AM     Click Here to See the Profile for unklshu   Click Here to Email unklshu     Edit/Delete Message   Reply w/Quote
JAAZY brings up a good point. I had the header problem with my windsor jr's, After I got the set up I had a hard time finding a set of headers that would fit in my 68 fastback with the manuel tranny. It turned out to be a headache but I finally found a set of Hooker super comps that fit.
Be sure the heads you get will fit your application or that you are already considering that into your cost.

joe

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