- 460 D1VE Block to be bored .30 over

- Crank to be polished and checked

- I have already had the D0VE heads done and will pick them up tomorrow.

- I have D00E rods I plan to use and I plan on having the good bolts installed.

- Gonna have the block decked when I get to the place I have all information for the engine.

Any suggestions would be appreciated. I need input on roller cam and intake. I also need a good race damper if anyone has one.

This engine is going in a 70 tube chassis Maverick with 4.88 gear and 1.76 Glide, 1050 dominator carb. I will shift at 5800. 1/8 mile racing.

I didn't have the heads flowed due to cost. Last year I spent a mint on the cleveland before it broke. The heads have 2.19/1.88 valves and have been gasket matched on the exhaust and intake ports. The "hump" has been removed in the exhaust ports. I had these heads done just like a friend of mines who runs a 6.40 in a 3500 lb car, NOS on 10.5 street tires, so I think I'll be ok.

I am planning on having 11.5 - 12.1 compression. I decided against the roller cam because of cost and changes that will have to be made and going with around a 270@50, 615 lift flat tappet cam because of the stock rods and crank. I'm gonna use a good set of lite pistons i.e. Ross.

I hope to be able to run 6.30s in the 1/8.

I shift my 264/268 at 7000 rpm...I'd seriously look into putting a set of rods in it.

Just found that out from the machine guy. A number of people feel that the stock rods are just as strong if not stronger than the aftermarket rods such as Eagle, Crower, etc. I had the rods magfluxed and they are fine. I still plan to shift at 5800 and change the camshaft.

I raced a stroker cleveland for 7 years on a set of dimple rods and manley pistons without a problem. Now I did make some changes on the heads and block height but when I installed the eagle ESP rods I broke the crank. Not the rods fault but maybe the aftermarket rods were stronger than the crank which leads me to the belief I have to buy a new crank and rods and the cost starts a steep climb.

I agree with you the aftermarket stuff is probably better but the cost factor at this point has me handcuffed.

I've never seen a crank break in an engine that either didn't have a catastrophic failure elsewhere in the engine or had been detonated.

Gotta agree with Butch. We had three rod failures at about 550HP level. Crank lived thru them all. Our rods were the truck style with ARP bolts installed, shotpeened, magged with full float pins. Used TRW/SpeedPro pistons. The rods kind of stretched apart just above the big end.Now use the Eagle H beam rods with a offset ground factory cast crank - 3 years no problem - motor now 650HP.

You're right to go with a lighter piston and your car is pretty light - but the parts will be maxed out - won't be able to build on it in future.

Had a Ford Power Parts/Blue Thunder dual plane was ok, now have a Victor.

Check Ryan's post on oiling for cam specs that we used.

I still have the Ultradyne solid cam 253/260 @ .050 I forget the lift exactly but it's between .620 and .650 on a 108 center. It would work real well in the rpm range you're talking about running. It's used but in good shape, $100 with the lifters if you're interested.

I'm gonna order a set of rods this weekend, probably the eagle H-Beam. Thanks for the advice

Butch, the guy that did my heads said they are setup for around a 630 lift. So yes I'm interested in the cam and lifters. I'll email you and we can work out the particulars.

Thanks again,

I have a ATI damper and a Victor intake I just picked up.

Am I correct in assuming the 460 is internally balanced?

I looked at the TCI flywheel that I used with the cleveland and it is much heavier than the 460. I assume because it is externally balanced with the weights.