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Author
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Topic: Cleveland Stroker Block/Rods/Crank
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Daniel Jones
Gearhead Posts: 489
From: St. Louis, MO
Registered: Aug 99
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posted 07-11-2001 07:46 PM
   
I'm in the planning/parts gathering stage for a stroker 351C
for my Pantera. It'll see occasional trips to the drag strip
but will primarily be a street toy. Plans are for a 4" stroke,
limited to 6000-6500 RPM. I recently came up with one of the
rare thick wall Aussie NASCAR XE 4 bolt main blocks that I'd
like to use. It does need a single sleeve but otherwise looks
good. A sonic check and magnaflux will tell for sure. I figured
it was worth the risk since the seller only wanted $200 for it,
including Roush main stud support kit. The bore should end up
being 0.030" or 0.040" over. I was planning on hard blocking
one of my standard Cleveland blocks but if the Aussie block pans
I don't think I'll bother since it appears so much beefier.I also have a set of forged Olds 6" small journal rods and a 400
crank that I'd like to use. I know SCAT and Eagle have stroker
parts that are cost effective now but I've swapped parts for
labor with a engine builder/machinist, so the stroker parts and
work will come at essentially no cost to me. Pistons will be
custom forgings in a low expansion alloy, dished to mirror the
combustion chambers and give a compression ratio of 11:1 or
so (whatever I can get away with on pump gas and is compatible
with the cam). Looking at the stack up: piston pin height = deck height - (rod length + crank stroke/2)
= 9.2 - (6.0 + 4.0/2)
= 1.2 inches The Aussie block has large notches in the cylinders for valve
clearance/shrouding so it looks like the top ring will need to
be down 0.27", assuming zero deck. The top ring will also need
to be below piston intake valve notch. What sort of distance is
required for the entire ring pack to ensure a good seal on the
street? I assume I'll need to bridge the ring that intersects
the pin. Will this still be stable or do I need to consider
destroking a bit? Thanks Much,
Dan Jones
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Scott (69Mach)
Gearhead Posts: 445
From: Walnut Creek, CA USA
Registered: Jun 99
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posted 07-16-2001 11:17 AM
Dan, I'd love to help you out, but I've always turned to your posts for info and don't know what to do when the master has a question. Moneymaker, are you out there???
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JAAZZY
Gearhead Posts: 745
From: Bay Area, CA
Registered: Apr 2001
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posted 07-16-2001 06:27 PM
I can't help but thought I'd write since I want to build a Pantera one of these days. Good luck
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Daniel Jones
Gearhead Posts: 489
From: St. Louis, MO
Registered: Aug 99
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posted 07-19-2001 06:41 PM
Scott, thanks for the kind words but I'm no master. Just a guy trying to learn all I can and help out others along the way. Jazzy, when you get serious about the Pantera, join the DeTomaso email list. Everything you've ever wanted to know and more. The Pantera is really a fun ride and the sound of a strong Cleveland behind your right ear is music indeed. Back to my original post, I don't think there's going to be a problem. With a bridged oil ring we should have room and keep a 1.2" pin height. Dan Jones
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kid vishus
Gearhead Posts: 4357
From: middle of NC
Registered: Oct 2000
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posted 07-19-2001 06:48 PM
Not sure if this helps at all. But I havea buddy with a C that they stroked. They went with a 3.7 stroke crank, and they used 6.2 inch rods in it. He has used the same oistons for years with no problems.
Not sure how the pin height of his combo compares to yours, but I do know his oil control ring is up in the pin hole and he has to use "buttons" to plug it. As a side note, I know Wiseco makes a piston for clevelands with a 1.23 pin height. (6.2 rod, stock stroke)
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