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Author Topic:   Cam Help !
SG236
Gearhead

Posts: 344
From: Jasper, TN, USA
Registered: Dec 2000

posted 07-09-2001 09:50 AM     Click Here to See the Profile for SG236   Click Here to Email SG236     Edit/Delete Message   Reply w/Quote
stock crank and rods, D0VE-C heads as listed in another post. Pop-up JE pistons .30 over for the 460. 4.88 rear gear, 1.76 Glide in 2340 lb tube chassis Maverick. I'm think 4000 stall? I have a 8" 5500 TCI that I will take to Kenny Ford.

I race 1/8 mile and have decided to go with a roller cam and lifters.

BTW: I plan on shifting at 5800.

All suggestions are welcome!

------------------
Russ Hood
70s Maverick S/Pro
https://mustangsandmore.com/ubb/SG236.html

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Moneymaker
Administrator

Posts: 18704
From: Lyons, IL, USA
Registered: May 99

posted 07-09-2001 03:37 PM     Click Here to See the Profile for Moneymaker   Click Here to Email Moneymaker     Edit/Delete Message   Reply w/Quote
What do we have for induction again Russ?

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Alex Denysenko
Co-Administrator and Moderator
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TomP
Gearhead

Posts: 4637
From: Delta BC Canada
Registered: Dec 99

posted 07-09-2001 06:20 PM     Click Here to See the Profile for TomP   Click Here to Email TomP     Edit/Delete Message   Reply w/Quote
at 5800 rpm i don't think i'd bother with the expense and complexity of a roller cam.

Sheesh even my 428 ramp truck goes past 6500 with a hydraulic and stock non adjustable rockers.Thats with a stock bottom end, original rod bolts and pistons.

I think you need to take 'er to 7 grand before you need to worry about roller cams.It's just another thing to go wrong.

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F551
Gearhead

Posts: 157
From: Manitoba, Canada
Registered: Nov 2000

posted 07-09-2001 07:19 PM     Click Here to See the Profile for F551   Click Here to Email F551     Edit/Delete Message   Reply w/Quote
Gotta agree with Tom - would buy better rods before a roller cam. Then you could safely buzz it a little. Crank will live forever.

We make 650HP/650ft/lb with a mild solid cam.

Are you planning on using the truck/CJ rods?(Make sure you get good bolts!)

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Fred
68 Mustang 500CID/Powerglide - "No Tubs"
86 Mustang GT Cobra

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S/Q 2204
Journeyman

Posts: 89
From: Ozark, AL(again after a year of being deployed)
Registered: Feb 2001

posted 07-10-2001 01:52 AM     Click Here to See the Profile for S/Q 2204   Click Here to Email S/Q 2204     Edit/Delete Message   Reply w/Quote
SG236,
I am with every one else. Stay flat tappet as long as you can.
Mark J.

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SG236
Gearhead

Posts: 344
From: Jasper, TN, USA
Registered: Dec 2000

posted 07-10-2001 08:53 AM     Click Here to See the Profile for SG236   Click Here to Email SG236     Edit/Delete Message   Reply w/Quote
Ok, guess I'll rethink after everyone's input.


Thanks for everyone's input.

------------------
Russ Hood
70s Maverick S/Pro
https://mustangsandmore.com/ubb/SG236.html

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ciscokid
Journeyman

Posts: 45
From: Cleveland, TN
Registered: Jul 2001

posted 07-10-2001 10:34 AM     Click Here to See the Profile for ciscokid     Edit/Delete Message   Reply w/Quote
Definitely stay with a flat tappet cam on a 460. It just is not worth the cost for a roller. You don't need a lot of cam to make a 460 make decent power. I have run a Lunati 41607 grind in my 460 for several years and have never had the slightest bit of problem with valvetrain (or anything else really). I DO have the cam "double dowelled" though, as it was recommended to me by a knowledgeable fellow that breaks stuff with astounding regularity. I have Eagle rods in one short block and aluminum rods in another with TRW pistons in both. I run a dragster which is lighter than your door car (1800 lbs), but I run 5.20's/130 MPH in the 1/8th, 5500 RPM converter, leave at 3800 RPM, shift at 6500, 1.17 sixty foot times. Single dominator on alky.

The first year I ran this combo I used the rods that came with the 460 SVO crate motor after having the small ends bushed and ARP Pro bolts installed. I shifted that one at 6500 RPM too, never a problem.....

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