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Author
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Topic: By-passing the heater
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Gary
Gearhead Posts: 725
From: Sarasota, Fla. USA
Registered: Jun 99
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posted 06-29-2001 12:31 PM
   
Well here in FL. I don't need a heater and doult I'll need to use defrosters. It seems to be a simple deal ridding the heater and to by-pass but wondered if I block off the water neck out-let,(top tube) and pump out-lets, and one of the two in the front of manifold if I will still have good flow through-out the engine? Guess what Im asking is the original set-up neccessary or can I just block them all off expect the short straight one from back of pump to manifold?
I want to clean up the engine bay as much as possible, and rid all un-neccessary hoses and wires .....(clean!)
Again thanks, also thanks for the replies about engine torque control 
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Robert K
Gearhead Posts: 503
From: Nashville, TN
Registered: Apr 2000
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posted 06-29-2001 01:08 PM
I wouldn't block anything off but what you can do is run a short length (4"-5") of hose to just by-pass the heater core. It doesn't hurt a thing to by-pass the hearter core. I've got this setup on my convertible until I can really take the car apart and replace the heater core and some other items. ------------------
67convertible 289/auto
65fastback 302/4sp [This message has been edited by Robert K (edited 06-29-2001).]
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JAAZZY
Gearhead Posts: 745
From: Bay Area, CA
Registered: Apr 2001
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posted 06-29-2001 05:10 PM
I have mine bypassed with a length of hose for the 2nd or 3rd time. It seems like the stocks heater cores just can't handle the pressure of a hih rpm motor. I routinely turned 7000rpm with my 289 and within a few months the core would leak again. Everyone told me it shouldn't but it always did. I need to come up with some kind of divertor so only a very small amount of water gets through.I have never seen anyone completely block the openings. I usually just see a short length of hose. It doesn't seem though that blocking them would be bad or at least I can't figure out why.
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7DMACH1
Gearhead Posts: 1389
From: PHILA. PA.
Registered: Feb 2001
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posted 06-29-2001 05:40 PM
First you can plug the holes in the engine with pipe plugs. As far as a problem with blowing out heater cores, Ford had a Tech. service bulletin in 1968 or 69 for this problem on all big block cars. It was to put a restrictor in the hoses right before the core to slow the flow. Almost all newer cars have them too, they come in a new Ford heater hose but if you put on aftermarket they don't and most people don't know to take them out of the old hose. The restrictors are still avail. from Ford. Part #E1DZ-18D358-B 5/8" OR E7VY-18D358-A 3/4" A little pricey though. Another way is to put a nut in the hose to slow the flow.------------------
1970 MACH 1 351C 4SPD
1986 CAPRI 5.0 5 spd.
2001 LINCOLN LS V8
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66351stang
Gearhead Posts: 677
From: sayville,newyork
Registered: Jul 2000
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posted 06-29-2001 06:08 PM
HEATER CORE IS 38.00, DEPENDING ON THE YEAR
65,66,67,68, WITHOUT A/C ,JOB TAKES ABOUT
2.0 HOURS..EVERYONE BYPASSE'S A LEAKING HEATER CORE.REMEMBER, THE SYSTEM IS SHORTENED WHEN YOU BYPASS THE CORE, YOU LOOSE THAT STRETCH OF HOSE AND THE CORE ITSELF, WHICH HELP'S COOL THE WATER...------------------
ponycar66,have you flown in a ford latley???????
66-COUPE W/351SVO
glad i had a v-8 !!!!!!
84.5 gt350-61 falcon 302
have a great day!!!!!!!!
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TomP
Gearhead Posts: 4780
From: Delta BC Canada
Registered: Dec 99
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posted 06-29-2001 10:36 PM
Gary
All you need is a pipe plug on the intake instead of that hex shaped water outlet (either 3/8" NPT or 1/2"NPT)
for the water pump you can get a molded rubber cap to seal it off, i bought them from a parts store in a red "Help" package
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jkilroy
Gearhead Posts: 1703
From: Vicksburg, MS
Registered: Dec 99
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posted 07-03-2001 01:53 PM
I picked up a couple of pipe plugs at Home Depot and along with some teflon goop, pluged the holes. The engine compartment looks a lot cleaner after getting rid of the bypass hose I had in there.------------------
Jay Kilroy
68' Fastback GT 390
"No such thing as a cam thats too big"
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